Overland Journal Project Land Rover Discovery 4 (LR4)

mpinco

Expedition Leader
OK, finally pics for 10 spoke LR3 wheels, 30mm spacers and LT285/60-18 GG AT2's on a 2011 LR4 Lux w/HD

Std height

LR4_Std_GG-2.jpg

Std height, side shot

LR4_Std_GG-3.jpg

Tight clearance at leading edge of front tire

LR4_StdEdge_GG.jpg

Off road height

LR4_OR_GG.jpg

Need to get her off road and find those areas that still rub after some trimming of plastic in front wheel area.
 

axels

Adventurer
My tires rub against the metal part inside the wheel well at full lock. Everything else seems fine. Going to check how it is with a few centimeters of lift otherwise I might have to look into cutting these metal parts...
 

mcieplinski

Adventurer
My tires rub against the metal part inside the wheel well at full lock. Everything else seems fine. Going to check how it is with a few centimeters of lift otherwise I might have to look into cutting these metal parts...

Hi Axel,



I am getting the LR3 wheels and BFGs 165/65r18 installed tomorrow so will update you. I just don't get how some folks (eg expeditionportal LR4 project) are fine with 30mm spacers and LR3 wheels and require no trimming of the caliper while some are having issues. Also your tires have smaller diameter than David's BFGs but it seems like you are experiencing some serious rubbing issues while he didn't. Very confusing as once you install the wheels it shouldn't matter whether you are having LR3 or compo wheels....

Any ideas as to the reasons for such differences?
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
Any ideas as to the reasons for such differences?

I have no idea about the LR4's, but on the LR3's there was a lot of variety in where the outrigger frame rail was located, and even the sensor wire was located in different places from rig to rig.
 

umbertob

Adventurer
Perhaps the spacers on ExPo's project LR4 are really 1.25", which translates to 31.75 mm, instead of 30 mm as discussed on later posts. A difference of 1.75 mm doesn't sound like much, but it's not negligible either on such an "exacting" application.
 
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axels

Adventurer
So I just stopped by Gap-Diagnotic in Canada (I'm spending a couple days in Montreal) and got a IIDTool directly from Patrick. By the way, Patrick if you read this, I can only thank you for taking time off your vacations and show me how to use this amazing little object.

I used it to lift the truck (just 20mm for now) and it reduced the rubbing of the tires against the frame extensions but I think that it needs another 10mm or so to stop rubbing.

The BFGs are a great choice but I wanted to keep the unsprung weight to a minimum and have a tire that doesn't compromise too much the comfort of the truck ;) the price difference was only $60 per tire. The Hankooks come out second on consumer report tests due to their price but are better on ice and snow than all other competitors... I'm French so I initially wanted the BFGs (owned by Michelin) but I'm really impressed by the HKK. Just drove 500 miles on ice and snow in Quebec by -10F and the grip is unbelievable. Sounds like I'm trying to convince you to give them a chance ;))

As far as tire diameter the Hankook are indeed 31.5 vs 31.7 for the BFGs. Really surprised that no one experienced rubbing against the frame in the wheel well... Maybe you'll be lucky too who knows.

Regarding the front calipers I did get the rims powder coated but I doubt I lost that much space with it and the spacers I got are over 30mm at 32mm...

Regarding the LR rims and Compomotives the offset is respectively 53 and 44... Let's not forget that with the LR rims we use the spacers which drastically changes the numbers. I use a 1.25" (32mm) spacer which might correspond to a 21 offset in a way...

Can't wait to hear how it works out for you

Axel
 

axels

Adventurer
I have no idea about the LR4's, but on the LR3's there was a lot of variety in where the outrigger frame rail was located, and even the sensor wire was located in different places from rig to rig.

I believe they're now part of the frame so all LR4s should have the same...
 

Mack73

Adventurer
I have no idea about the LR4's, but on the LR3's there was a lot of variety in where the outrigger frame rail was located, and even the sensor wire was located in different places from rig to rig.

2005-2007 all had a bolt on Outrigger. 2008+ LR3 and all LR4's have a weld on Outrigger. The weld on one gets in the way on 31.5" and larger. It just barely kisses it at 31.5"


I used it to lift the truck (just 20mm for now) and it reduced the rubbing of the tires against the frame extensions but I think that it needs another 10mm or so to stop rubbing.

While this will stop the rubbing for on road driving, it won't change the fact that as the suspension articulates it will rub. So if you take it offroad it will rub a plenty. Only real solution is to cut/weld.
 

axels

Adventurer
2005-2007 all had a bolt on Outrigger. 2008+ LR3 and all LR4's have a weld on Outrigger. The weld on one gets in the way on 31.5" and larger. It just barely kisses it at 31.5"

Mine don't just barely kiss my 31.5. They make it painful to turn at full lock however there's no problem at all when going straight or taking regular turns.


While this will stop the rubbing for on road driving, it won't change the fact that as the suspension articulates it will rub. So if you take it offroad it will rub a plenty. Only real solution is to cut/weld.

I'm aware that I will eventually need to get to this cutting and welding however, I've rarely experience the need to be at full lock (right or left) while the front suspension is fully compressed... So I might just see how it goes like this for a moment.
 

mpinco

Expedition Leader
........Regarding the front calipers I did get the rims powder coated but I doubt I lost that much space with it and the spacers I got are over 30mm at 32mm...

.......

Axel

There are actually two dimensions in play for LR4 calipers. The first is the outboard diameter of the caliper body (where the pistons sit) that must fit within the wheel inside diameter closest to the spokes. The 30mm spacer sets this outboard diameter just far enough in that it clears.

The second is the inboard diameter (caliper ribs) that must fit within the wheel inside diameter AFTER it tapers out from the spokes. If I'm correct the 30mm spacer has little to no impact for this second clearance between the caliper ribs and the wheel. But powder coating the wheel WILL reduce the wheel I.D. for the second clearance, resulting in the need to reduce the ribs. Suspect the powder coating reduced your wheel inside diameter, away from the spokes and past the taper, by 2 to 4mm in total.

It is the second diameter where my non-powder coated LR3 wheels were slightly polished by the caliper ribs. The inboard side.
 

axels

Adventurer
There are actually two dimensions in play for LR4 calipers. The first is the outboard diameter of the caliper body (where the pistons sit) that must fit within the wheel inside diameter closest to the spokes. The 30mm spacer sets this outboard diameter just far enough in that it clears.

The second is the inboard diameter (caliper ribs) that must fit within the wheel inside diameter AFTER it tapers out from the spokes. If I'm correct the 30mm spacer has little to no impact for this second clearance between the caliper ribs and the wheel. But powder coating the wheel WILL reduce the wheel I.D. for the second clearance, resulting in the need to reduce the ribs. Suspect the powder coating reduced your wheel inside diameter, away from the spokes and past the taper, by 2 to 4mm in total.

It is the second diameter where my non-powder coated LR3 wheels were slightly polished by the caliper ribs. The inboard side.

In my case, the problem was totally resolved by grinding the caliper ribs rather than sanding the inside of the wheel. These ribs are in my opinion just there to help handling the calipers when installing them or when molding them limit stress and breakage (based on my past experience working for Mercedes-Benz in Germany).

I did test the rims before getting them powder coated and ordering the spacers.

As mentioned earlier, the modifications to the ribs solved the problems (to the extent that I was tempted trying installing the rims without spacers...).
 

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