unkamonkey
Explorer
A lot of the times, I do liquid electrical tape, shrink tube and another few coats of the liquid electrical tape. I havent had a failure yet.
Overland XJ Build. Not my first Rodeo.....(video included)
- Thread starter Overland History
- Start date
Overland History
Wanderluster
Well that's good news, considering I've only changed a fuel pump on the '97+ XJ's! Unfortunately, I will still have to drop the tank for safety reasons if I'm welding close to it!
Overland History
Wanderluster
Not a bad idea. I didn't do any shrink wrap, but I did wrap the rest of the harness in electrical tape just to protect the wires from chaffing!
Kevin108
Explorer
Dropping the tank is easy. Undo the shield for the filler neck, undo the hose clamp there, undo the connector for the fuel pump wiring, and undo the nuts on the J-bolts securing the two straps under the tank. This is also the time to consider placement of anchors for your eventual sleeping platform.
Anak
Stranger
I don't think that small console is limited to MJs. There were XJs made with the same sort of console design. Had one small console up front for the shifter and then another midget console for the e-brake. No heat provision for the back seat passengers. I have seen them in the junkyard. Should be easier to come by than the pedal style e-brake.
Overland History
Wanderluster
Very good point, thanks Kevin! I'll take some measurements while I've got the tank out!
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Overland History
Wanderluster
I think you might be right about some early XJ's have the short console, but the entire reason for the conversion to the Pedal E-Brake setup is so that I can mount the Dometic CDF-11 in between the front seats, right where the E-Brake handle currently is.
There is exactly 9in between the front seats and the Dometic CDF-11 is exactly 9in wide!
After I find the parts, this is going in between my seats. This is the Dometic CDF-11 console Fridge/Freezer. I think it'll nestle in there nicely!
Solid product. Still rocking mine (CF-25) 4 years later. And it's been bouncing down almost every trail I've been on every summer.
I think you might be right about some early XJ's have the short console, but the entire reason for the conversion to the Pedal E-Brake setup is so that I can mount the Dometic CDF-11 in between the front seats, right where the E-Brake handle currently is.
There is exactly 9in between the front seats and the Dometic CDF-11 is exactly 9in wide!
Just make sure that the venting on the fridge can breath. Had mine error out once (just shuts off) due to me inadvertently blocking the side vents (a sleeping bag and pillow moved in transit). Just something to be aware of if you're trying to cram it in between the seats.
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Overland History
Wanderluster
Great advice, I'll definitely keep it in mind once I install the unit!
Overland History
Wanderluster
Well, here goes on my plan for the On-Board Camp Shower Build.
The reason I'm kinda skipping ahead of the Sleep/Gear platform build, is because a lot of the Camp Shower details will have to be worked out and built before/around/under it.
I've been doing a ton of reading on this site as well as other RV sites, so I've got a lot of the parts and details narrowed down, but I'd still like everyone's critiques on the plans for my setup, just incase I've overlooked anything.
I did a ton of research on the best ways to heat water electrically, and it really doesn't seem that the technology is there to be able to heat it and take a 100-110* shower on 12v power. I really don't want to carry around propane since the idea is to save as much weight and space as possible and hopefully run most of the systems off of an Auxillary battery and Solar power.
I started to think through most of the systems on the Jeep, and the one that made the most sense to tap into for heat would be the engine coolant system.
I found a copper heat exchanger online which will handle the engine coolant and fresh water flowing through it...
This is the Duda Energy 10 plate heat exchanger. The idea is to mount it in the engine bay, on the passenger side, where the heater core hoses are. The plan is to connect the coolant-in hose on the heat exchanger to the heater core exit hose, that way it doesn't affect the cabin heating capability. As far as I've read, you'll get maximum efficiency from the heat exchanger if the coolant and fresh water are flowing opposite of each other through the exchanger.
Duda Energy 10 plate Heat Exchanger. The price is pretty reasonable!
http://www.amazon.com/B3-12A-Stainless-Exchanger-Copper-Brazed/dp/B0039WRQGC?th=0
There are 20 and 30 plate Exchangers made by the same company, but as far as I've read, the 10 plate is more than sufficient for a hot water camp shower.
The reason I'm kinda skipping ahead of the Sleep/Gear platform build, is because a lot of the Camp Shower details will have to be worked out and built before/around/under it.
I've been doing a ton of reading on this site as well as other RV sites, so I've got a lot of the parts and details narrowed down, but I'd still like everyone's critiques on the plans for my setup, just incase I've overlooked anything.
I did a ton of research on the best ways to heat water electrically, and it really doesn't seem that the technology is there to be able to heat it and take a 100-110* shower on 12v power. I really don't want to carry around propane since the idea is to save as much weight and space as possible and hopefully run most of the systems off of an Auxillary battery and Solar power.
I started to think through most of the systems on the Jeep, and the one that made the most sense to tap into for heat would be the engine coolant system.
I found a copper heat exchanger online which will handle the engine coolant and fresh water flowing through it...
This is the Duda Energy 10 plate heat exchanger. The idea is to mount it in the engine bay, on the passenger side, where the heater core hoses are. The plan is to connect the coolant-in hose on the heat exchanger to the heater core exit hose, that way it doesn't affect the cabin heating capability. As far as I've read, you'll get maximum efficiency from the heat exchanger if the coolant and fresh water are flowing opposite of each other through the exchanger.
Duda Energy 10 plate Heat Exchanger. The price is pretty reasonable!
http://www.amazon.com/B3-12A-Stainless-Exchanger-Copper-Brazed/dp/B0039WRQGC?th=0
There are 20 and 30 plate Exchangers made by the same company, but as far as I've read, the 10 plate is more than sufficient for a hot water camp shower.
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Overland History
Wanderluster
I've searched high and low in regards to fresh water holding tanks for 4x4s. The best one that I've come up with so far is the Front Runner Footwell 10.5gal tank
It mounts right behind the front seats on the floorboard, and even has a cut out for the Transmission hump in the body. I LOVE the fact that it's got a low center of gravity compared to the "Road Shower" which mounts up high on the roof rack.
After some measuring, it will fit perfectly into the footwell of the XJ with a few inches to spare for hose plumbing.
The cheapest that I've found it is here for $149.00....
http://www.expeditionready.net/FOOTWELL-WATER-TANK-40L-1057-Gallons-WTAN022.htm
It mounts right behind the front seats on the floorboard, and even has a cut out for the Transmission hump in the body. I LOVE the fact that it's got a low center of gravity compared to the "Road Shower" which mounts up high on the roof rack.
After some measuring, it will fit perfectly into the footwell of the XJ with a few inches to spare for hose plumbing.
The cheapest that I've found it is here for $149.00....
http://www.expeditionready.net/FOOTWELL-WATER-TANK-40L-1057-Gallons-WTAN022.htm
Overland History
Wanderluster
In regards to an electric 12v pump, I think the Shurflo Revolution 3.0 gallons per minute is the one to go with. It has the ability to run dry, prime up to 6ft away and has a 55psi cutoff, which my hose PSI will more than exceed!
It's priced reasonably at $69.00 shipped with Prime!
http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-4008-101-E65-Revolution-Water-Pump/dp/B002XM5G70
Well it's all well and great to have hot water, but engine coolant temps can exceed 200*. To be able to regulate and adjust the water temperature, I read that a Thermostatic Mixing Valve will work great! They're not cheap, as much as $75ish or so, but will certainly keep me from scalding myself!
Cheapest one I could find:
http://m.lightinthebox.com/en/Therm...151804453994&gclid=CK2_76uBnskCFY17fgodAooLFA
It's priced reasonably at $69.00 shipped with Prime!
http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-4008-101-E65-Revolution-Water-Pump/dp/B002XM5G70
Well it's all well and great to have hot water, but engine coolant temps can exceed 200*. To be able to regulate and adjust the water temperature, I read that a Thermostatic Mixing Valve will work great! They're not cheap, as much as $75ish or so, but will certainly keep me from scalding myself!
Cheapest one I could find:
http://m.lightinthebox.com/en/Therm...151804453994&gclid=CK2_76uBnskCFY17fgodAooLFA
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Overland History
Wanderluster
I drew up a schematic of the project, let me know what you guys think!
