pivoting frames and mounting campers

[gator70]

Do you have photos of this installed?

Many photos on my build thread

 

[rruff]

Interesting concept - do you have any photos?

This will have to do for now. Basically where you want pivoting to occur the isolators need to be in a line. Can do 3 point or 4 point easily enough. These are the soft Energy Suspension universal body mount bushings, cost ~$20 each now. Though I was told these would take a static load of 800 lbs each, that might be optimistic.

 

[stever1000]

This will have to do for now. Basically where you want pivoting to occur the isolators need to be in a line. Can do 3 point or 4 point easily enough. These are the soft Energy Suspension universal body mount bushings, cost ~$20 each now. Though I was told these would take a static load of 800 lbs each, that might be optimistic.

Interesting - simple and effective

 

[rruff]

I originally thought to have 2 isolators side by side in the rear (that's why the rear fore-aft tube is wide enough to accommodate 2) but it was a lot stiffer and I was concerned that the poly would get over stressed. A single row has very little resistance to tilting, even with far more tilt than shown in the photo.

A 4 point arrangement would have centerline isolators at the front and rear, with outboard isolators near the middle (fore-aft). The outboard ones could be grouped in pairs easily, or maybe more, since I think they only provide compliance for chassis flex along the length, which would be much less than the twist. One advantage of 4 point is that your tire clearance is less effected, and it can accommodate more twist. If you want a passthrough though, it seems like 3 point with the "fixed" position in the front is best if your box is not too long.

Though I was told that a static load of 800 lbs each was ok, I'd suggest about half that. If you are suspending 10,000 lbs that would be 25 of them... but you just need to drill the appropriate size holes, so not a tough thing to manage.