Mamontof
Explorer
The drop down table
]
The best drop down table ( my opinion ) - do you have a Link were you order buy that ?
Post up your drawer/storage system
- Thread starter neliconcept
- Start date
The best drop down table ( my opinion ) - do you have a Link were you order buy that ?
boozewz
Observer
Thanks for the link. That's an awesome website, I could spend hours on it. I just ordered the B type latches:sombrero:....Cant wait for it to come and I'll have to give it a crack. It should look and work well.
Thanks. This drop down table was built from scratch. We took out the paneling of the rear door and cut the wooden base around it to fit as spec.
boozewz
Observer
burn_e; said:
No falcons yet...We mostly do day trips with a bbq at the end before sunset. I'm still trying to get some of the guys in the group to do an overnighter, followed by a longer trip of 2-3 days. The storage setup I have is catered mostly to the day trips plus a fridge/cooler on the right that would be loaded in on the day of the trip.
Have you done a trip report of your time in the Emtpy Quarter?
Not really reports done. Usually we just darted in following different routes.
Usually the confluence point were something to head for.
Longest trip we did was 4 days 3 nights down to the meeting point of the borders of Oman, KSA and Jemen. Fabulous trip. Only downside was that we where there without visa and we were constantly on guard for smugglers and border patrols.
Longer trips getting difficult since the fuel transport gets a serious matter. For this trip everyone of us was carrying 5 jerry cans and the fuel in the car. Did this trip with my Nissan Patrol which has plenty of tanks (140 liters).
Well and it just was enough to get out.
These days we stick around in UAE and explore here. Al Gharbia is a great place with lots of things to discover.
And for a change trips down to southern Oman.
The Kingdom become a little bit difficult to travel with all the visa requirements. Spoils the party a bit.
Where are you located in KSA?
mrlocksmith
Adventurer
Not Drawers, But Cabinets and a Sleeping Platform for my FJ60
The Back Lid Moves Up Front for sleeping at night.
The Back Lid Moves Up Front for sleeping at night.
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wjeeper
Active member
Just finished my drawer system and thought I would add it here since this thread was a major inspiration for ideas!
you can see the rest of my drawer slide-out here:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53303&page=5
you can see the rest of my drawer slide-out here:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53303&page=5
zukrider
Explorer
that is pretty trick!
mrlocksmith
Adventurer
Well Done..
Mark
Mark
Just finished my drawer system and thought I would add it here since this thread was a major inspiration for ideas!
you can see the rest of my drawer slide-out here:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53303&page=5
wjeeper
Active member
Thanks for the compliments! I am really excited about how it turned out and I cant wait to get out there and put it to use!:smiley_drive:
MarcFJ60
Adventurer
My Storage Solution - AKA Lessons Learned
I finally finished my cargo solution. There really isn't anything ground breaking about them, especially since I blatantly stole most of the ideas from you nice folks. But more than the drawers themselves, I figured I would post things I learned while making them that might help people plan their systems. A self critique, if you will, but there are some things that people may want to consider first when planning these projects.
Since drawers in an FJ80 has been done a thousand times, I strongly considered ordering a set from Warfield Offroad. In hindsight, that still may have been the best route given his very fair pricing and good reviews.
Here's what I wanted out of my system (in no particular order):
1) Was relatively easy to remove and return to stock (mostly accomplished)
2) It wouldn't look terrible. (accomplished, IMHO)
3) Could be used as a sleeping platform (accomplished)
4) Had tie downs for storage (accomplished)
5) Was secure and kept the cargo secure (accomplished)
6) Had hatches for easier access (mostly accomplished)
7) Had covert storage (accomplished - until I reveal it here
)
1) Easy to Remove
I think I mostly hit this one, but this is also where I learned a lot (aka screwed up). Based upon others, I went with 1/2 inch Birch Plywood and I am really glad I did. It is plenty strong for cargo and sleeping. There really isn't any need to go with 3/4 inch unless your hauling A LOT of weight or covering much larger openings (i.e. one piece platform in back of a pickup).
I also liked the Warfield version how it used metal framing and a two piece system.
This makes it easier to remove and allows me the option to replace on of the third row seats. I went in thinking it also saves a significant amount of weight. In hindsight, I doubt it saves a whole lot of weight over a complete plywood box, but I think the metal substructure does create a better way to secure it and attach the cargo tie downs above:
Drawers - Here's where I learned the most. Going in, I was unsure whether I wanted drawers. They add weight and add a significant amount of time and cost to the project. But they are convenient for getting stuff out and they certainly add a more finished look to the project. So in the end, I went with drawers, but I'm still not sure it was the best idea. I will try them out for awhile, and may actually remove them at some point.
Some things to consider about drawers (In addition to weight, cost and time), is that they reduce your usable storage too. The picture below doesn't illustrate it too well, but you lose precious inches with drawers. In addition, you can't pack stuff in tightly since it needs to slide freely to open and close.
My other screw up, I mean lesson, was in the slides. I used the 200 lb KV slides from Lee Valley that most do. They are plenty strong and seem to be very good quality. But you know what??? They don't separate!! Once built, your drawers are in for the long haul! I don't know, maybe none of the heavy duty slides separate, but this was significant to me. First, it makes the removal of a carrier that much more difficult. Secondly, it's that much more of a pain to build the darn things.
On the plus side, I'm glad I went with the $40, 200 lb slides (For most people I really think the $100, 500 lb slides are overkill). In the end, they still attach with dinky little 1/2 inch screws (although I used a couple through bolts with nuts on each one):
I really think the best set up is just a platform with large tupperware type pullout containers. The problem there is finding the right size containers (which is why I ended up with drawers). I also like the drawers that just slide on cutting board material which maximizes space and is simple and cheap. Just some things to consider.
2) Looks
I 'll let you guys be the judge, but I'm pretty happy with it. It's not perfectly symmetrical, but the $8 Walmart carpet matches pretty well. I also like how the entire surface is now flat without the fender bumps in the way. If nothing else, my hockey sticks fit perfectly flat now.
3) Sleeping Platform, 4) Tie Downs, and 5) Cargo Security
My big concern here was having a very flat surface. This meant no piano hinges on the latches and flush mount tie downs. I actually ended up not using my flush mount tie downs because I liked the low profile ones better and they are positioned at the outer edges. But if they become bothersome, I may switch back to the recessed ones. They are bolted through to the metal frame. The metal frame is bolted directly into where the 3rd row seats attach. In other words, in a rollover or other serious accident, it's not going anywhere and I'm not worried about heavy tools flying around and hitting my family.
6) Hatches
This was another "learning" area. I really liked the idea of hatches to quickly retrieve stuff. They also provide access if you can't get the drawers open for some reason. The reality is that it is pretty darn tough to get anything out through the hatches. Perhaps I should have just made them huge? But I would be hard pressed to try to pull my tool bags out through that hatch. The other issue is securing the hatch. A hatch is no good, IMHO, if it can fly open in an accident and send a heavy tool flying at your head. Although I think piano hinges are probably the best solution, I had to work around that since I didn't want hinges in the middle of my sleeping platform. I had to add supports (1x2 wood) to support them from underneath. This further interferes with drawer space. (you can see that in the unfinished drawer pic above).
7) Covert Storage
You may question the sensibility of posting my hidden compartments here, but I'm really not too worried about you guys stealing my stuff. The beauty of these platforms is there is all sorts of places for compartments and false bottoms. Why, you ask? Because people love breaking into stuff at trailheads. So let's say you've parked at a trailhead or your remote campsite and you are going to take a hike or swim in the lake. It's not practical to take your wallet, passport, firearm, Ipod, whatever. But locking it in the car isn't all that secure either. I'd rather take my chances with a good hiding spot than an easily defeated lock. Even if they steal the car, my guess is they will pass over good hiding spots and I will get my stuff when the car is recovered (and hopefully not torched). I went pretty simple and used a screw as a hing and vecro for a latch:
There's a surprising amount of space in the void by the fenders and it is a spot easily missed - especially with a quart or two of oil in front of the door.
I finally finished my cargo solution. There really isn't anything ground breaking about them, especially since I blatantly stole most of the ideas from you nice folks. But more than the drawers themselves, I figured I would post things I learned while making them that might help people plan their systems. A self critique, if you will, but there are some things that people may want to consider first when planning these projects.
Since drawers in an FJ80 has been done a thousand times, I strongly considered ordering a set from Warfield Offroad. In hindsight, that still may have been the best route given his very fair pricing and good reviews.
Here's what I wanted out of my system (in no particular order):
1) Was relatively easy to remove and return to stock (mostly accomplished)
2) It wouldn't look terrible. (accomplished, IMHO)
3) Could be used as a sleeping platform (accomplished)
4) Had tie downs for storage (accomplished)
5) Was secure and kept the cargo secure (accomplished)
6) Had hatches for easier access (mostly accomplished)
7) Had covert storage (accomplished - until I reveal it here
)1) Easy to Remove
I think I mostly hit this one, but this is also where I learned a lot (aka screwed up). Based upon others, I went with 1/2 inch Birch Plywood and I am really glad I did. It is plenty strong for cargo and sleeping. There really isn't any need to go with 3/4 inch unless your hauling A LOT of weight or covering much larger openings (i.e. one piece platform in back of a pickup).
I also liked the Warfield version how it used metal framing and a two piece system.
This makes it easier to remove and allows me the option to replace on of the third row seats. I went in thinking it also saves a significant amount of weight. In hindsight, I doubt it saves a whole lot of weight over a complete plywood box, but I think the metal substructure does create a better way to secure it and attach the cargo tie downs above:
Drawers - Here's where I learned the most. Going in, I was unsure whether I wanted drawers. They add weight and add a significant amount of time and cost to the project. But they are convenient for getting stuff out and they certainly add a more finished look to the project. So in the end, I went with drawers, but I'm still not sure it was the best idea. I will try them out for awhile, and may actually remove them at some point.
Some things to consider about drawers (In addition to weight, cost and time), is that they reduce your usable storage too. The picture below doesn't illustrate it too well, but you lose precious inches with drawers. In addition, you can't pack stuff in tightly since it needs to slide freely to open and close.
My other screw up, I mean lesson, was in the slides. I used the 200 lb KV slides from Lee Valley that most do. They are plenty strong and seem to be very good quality. But you know what??? They don't separate!!
Once built, your drawers are in for the long haul! I don't know, maybe none of the heavy duty slides separate, but this was significant to me. First, it makes the removal of a carrier that much more difficult. Secondly, it's that much more of a pain to build the darn things.On the plus side, I'm glad I went with the $40, 200 lb slides (For most people I really think the $100, 500 lb slides are overkill). In the end, they still attach with dinky little 1/2 inch screws (although I used a couple through bolts with nuts on each one):
I really think the best set up is just a platform with large tupperware type pullout containers. The problem there is finding the right size containers (which is why I ended up with drawers). I also like the drawers that just slide on cutting board material which maximizes space and is simple and cheap. Just some things to consider.
2) Looks
I 'll let you guys be the judge, but I'm pretty happy with it. It's not perfectly symmetrical, but the $8 Walmart carpet matches pretty well. I also like how the entire surface is now flat without the fender bumps in the way. If nothing else, my hockey sticks fit perfectly flat now.
3) Sleeping Platform, 4) Tie Downs, and 5) Cargo Security
My big concern here was having a very flat surface. This meant no piano hinges on the latches and flush mount tie downs. I actually ended up not using my flush mount tie downs because I liked the low profile ones better and they are positioned at the outer edges. But if they become bothersome, I may switch back to the recessed ones. They are bolted through to the metal frame. The metal frame is bolted directly into where the 3rd row seats attach. In other words, in a rollover or other serious accident, it's not going anywhere and I'm not worried about heavy tools flying around and hitting my family.
6) Hatches
This was another "learning" area.
I really liked the idea of hatches to quickly retrieve stuff. They also provide access if you can't get the drawers open for some reason. The reality is that it is pretty darn tough to get anything out through the hatches. Perhaps I should have just made them huge? But I would be hard pressed to try to pull my tool bags out through that hatch. The other issue is securing the hatch. A hatch is no good, IMHO, if it can fly open in an accident and send a heavy tool flying at your head. Although I think piano hinges are probably the best solution, I had to work around that since I didn't want hinges in the middle of my sleeping platform. I had to add supports (1x2 wood) to support them from underneath. This further interferes with drawer space. (you can see that in the unfinished drawer pic above).7) Covert Storage
You may question the sensibility of posting my hidden compartments here, but I'm really not too worried about you guys stealing my stuff.
The beauty of these platforms is there is all sorts of places for compartments and false bottoms. Why, you ask? Because people love breaking into stuff at trailheads. So let's say you've parked at a trailhead or your remote campsite and you are going to take a hike or swim in the lake. It's not practical to take your wallet, passport, firearm, Ipod, whatever. But locking it in the car isn't all that secure either. I'd rather take my chances with a good hiding spot than an easily defeated lock. Even if they steal the car, my guess is they will pass over good hiding spots and I will get my stuff when the car is recovered (and hopefully not torched). I went pretty simple and used a screw as a hing and vecro for a latch:
There's a surprising amount of space in the void by the fenders and it is a spot easily missed - especially with a quart or two of oil in front of the door.
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southpier
Expedition Leader
general observation: drawer bottoms fit between the sides. that puts the content weight against the sheer strength of the fastener (unless they are dadoed - but that robs additional space). when the bottom is attached to the drawer sides' bottom as in the photo, the content weight ppushes against the fasteners and is more likely to drive the bottom of the drawer apart.
Interesting. I've never looked that up and both ways seem reasonable. I'll keep it in mind for future projects for sure.
MarcFJ60
Adventurer
I totally agree. But because the sliders do not separate, the drawers need to be constructed in place. This would have made it difficult to attach the drawer bottom from the sides for the entire length since the slides are 32" drawer does not extend 100%. (something I might have planned for if I only had known the slides didn't separate). I tried to compensate for this with the front and rear of the drawers as those attach to the bottom of the drawer from the sides (if that makes sense). I used wood glue and brads to attach the bottom. But also added some screws because I wasn't totally comfortable for the reasons you mentioned.
But it is this kind of info/critiques that I am hoping will help others plan/build their systems. Your point about the dado cut is spot on as well. I really wanted to build the drawers with a dado cut bottom, but I would have lost an additional 1/2 to 3/4 inch or so.
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