post your Suburban pics

[HARDTRAILZ]

Would never get barn doors if I had the option. I love the drop window and tailgate on my 91 and would take a newer hatch over barn doors anyday. But that is why it was an option and not standard before.

 

[Renntag]

My biggest complaint with the gate on the 73-91 is that you could be left stranded at any moment with the system not working. That is not comforting.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

No different risk than the barn door handle failing to me. I have had things inside doors fail and leave doors un-openable more than I have had my tilgate fail me...

 

[Rockhounder]

I think it boils down to usage style, and personal taste/preference.

In terms of loading and unloading items in my suburban, I find it a lot more user friendly for my needs than my Avalanche, which has the tailgate. With that extra depth of the tailgate, it sucks to try to have to climb into the rear of the avalanche to get items that are further in the cargo area. Whereas, with the Suburban barn doors, it is a lot easier for being able to reach in and get your groceries. Not to mention I don't need to have any fancy outrigger to put my tire and gas cans on with the barn doors.

 

[Renntag]

No different risk than the barn door handle failing to me. I have had things inside doors fail and leave doors un-openable more than I have had my tilgate fail me...

This is true, but I hear more stories of rear glass not working. I have rebuilt mine to help reduce any chances of failure.

 

[Renntag]

I think it boils down to usage style, and personal taste/preference.

In terms of loading and unloading items in my suburban, I find it a lot more user friendly for my needs than my Avalanche, which has the tailgate. With that extra depth of the tailgate, it sucks to try to have to climb into the rear of the avalanche to get items that are further in the cargo area. Whereas, with the Suburban barn doors, it is a lot easier for being able to reach in and get your groceries. Not to mention I don't need to have any fancy outrigger to put my tire and gas cans on with the barn doors.

I agree that there is a taste preference for sure. My tailgate then requires a bumper mounted swing out carrier as you indicate. Having to reach over the tailgate to get anything in or out is a back breaker for sure.

If the 91 had the flip up glass that my 91tailgated burb had, I'd deal with the reach. The up and down with the glass is just dumb. Imagine having to roll your windows down to open a door. (Engineering fail).

 

[Rockhounder]

I agree that there is a taste preference for sure. My tailgate then requires a bumper mounted swing out carrier as you indicate. Having to reach over the tailgate to get anything in or out is a back breaker for sure.

If the 91 had the flip up glass that my 91tailgated burb had, I'd deal with the reach. The up and down with the glass is just dumb. Imagine having to roll your windows down to open a door. (Engineering fail).

Interesting that you mention having to roll down the glass to open a car door(engineering fail). It seems that these same engineers have not learned their lesson. My family went to florida this summer and rented a brand new (6000 miles on the odometer) WV new beetle with the extended rear roof. It had windows that actually had to be lowered about a half inch to clear the door jamb and moulding. When you pull on the door handle, it sends a signal to the window to lower itself to automatically clear. I have also seen other new vehicles that do this, but just how long does it work??? The VW drivers side window broke, and shattered when the sensor somehow thought the window was all the way up, before the door closed all the way...... busted window, in daily afternoon thunderstorms in florida was not fun....

Too many different engineering pathways to design a vehicle now, design by non communicating committee. WHen a problem arises, or a functional conflict, don't take the time to have the offending issue correctly resolved, but instead design another fail prone solution to try to cover the other mistake. Kinda like those chrysler K cars and others that you had to physically move the whole transverse v8 engine forward just to change the firewall side spark plugs, or the fiero that had to have the whole engine assembly lowered down on an additional heavy and useless swinging cradle, just to access an oil filter change....doh....

 

[Renntag]

The window drop feature is something that BMW, and Mercedes have been doing for nearly 20 years? We bought a new mustang in 2005, it also utilized this feature.

I dont think this would keep anyone from opening the door. Its for a more positive seal to reduce wind noise with a frameless door. No need if there is a box around the glass that carries an extra seal.

 

[Larry]

The age old argument for and against barn doors and gates goes back to the Hatfield’s and McCoy’s. Rumor has it the Suburban rear doors is what started their fight in the first place. Everybody has their preference and personal reasons why. Rear visibility is not an issue to me but I learned how to drive with mirrors and often drive large vehicles where rearview mirrors aren’t even installed because you can’t see due to the load or bed type (wreckers, straight trucks, semi’s). In the end, it all comes down to what works best for you.

Larry would have to tell us what version of the 14 bolt is in the rear of a 2500 Burb, but it looks like you could also replace the G80 with a Detroit Locker, Truetrac, Posi, or maybe even an ELocker.

I didn’t see the above comment earlier…

There are two axles used in the 2500 (¾ ton) Subs over the years.

10.5” Corporate 14 bolt full floater. Started in 1973 through 2013 in Suburban’s, although it is still used in new Silverado/Sierra HD trucks with 6.0L gas engines today. This axle was the standard ¾ ton axle up until 1981 when the 9.5” semi floater was introduced in an effort to save weight. After 1981 this axle was only used on 1 ton pickups, and ¾ ton trucks and Suburbans equipped with the 454 and most diesels depending on the transmission the vehicle was equipped. For many years, the 10.5” was also a free flow option under code 1TA in ¾ ton pickups, G-vans and Suburbans. After 2007 the 10.5” was only used on 6.0L 2500 series Burbs when equipped with the towing package and 4:10 gears.
2012-10-07_18-43-36_908 by dawgstrucks, on Flickr


The 9.5” semi-floater began in 1981 in ¾ ton full-size trucks, vans and Suburbans behind small block engines. It was used up until 2013 when GM discontinued the 2500 series Suburban for the 2014 model year (only 1500 series exist on the ugly new 2014 K2XX Suburban and Yuk-On XL). This axle was also the axle used in Hummer H2’s. This axle is better than the 8.5” (10 bolt) axle used in the half tons but nowhere near as strong as the 10.5 full-floater. Most hard core guys remove these 9.5” axles and install 10.5” in their place. I’ve done this swap on 2 Suburbans.
Turd 9.5” as it was being removed.
P9190139 by dawgstrucks, on Flickr

 

[mike the welder]

Just picked up a 1999 1500 4x4 a week ago. Very happy with it so far.

 

[Renntag]

Very nice. Same colour as the diesel 99 I used to own.

 

[AsphaltCowboy]

Bought this a few months ago, 1983 Suburban 1/2 Ton 6.2 diesel. Ended up being $200 after I sold some of the spare parts it came with(couldn't pass it up).
I plan to buy all new 3/4 ton springs, 32" ST Maxx tires, and replace the 6.2 with a mechanical 6.5 turbo. Other than that just little things here and there.

 

[Larry]

Bought this a few months ago, 1983 Suburban 1/2 Ton 6.2 diesel. Ended up being $200 after I sold some of the spare parts it came with(couldn't pass it up).
I plan to buy all new 3/4 ton springs, 32" ST Maxx tires, and replace the 6.2 with a mechanical 6.5 turbo. Other than that just little things here and there.

Very nice. Looks like someone installed newer seats from an 89-91 Burb in there. Did a good job too by using the same color seats. Too many people have no problem mixing colors when they do seat swaps. Yours looks great.

 

[Renntag]

Nice truck AsphaltCowboy. Smokin deal ! Wow.

The age old argument for and against barn doors and gates goes back to the Hatfield’s and McCoy’s. ... Rear visibility is not an issue to me but I learned how to drive with mirrors

Agreed.

There are two axles used in the 2500 (¾ ton) Subs over the years.

10.5” Corporate 14 bolt full floater. Started in 1973 through 2013 in Suburban’s, although it is still used in new Silverado/Sierra HD trucks with 6.0L gas engines today. This axle was the standard ¾ ton axle up until 1981 when the 9.5” semi floater was introduced in an effort to save weight. After 1981 this axle was only used on 1 ton pickups, and ¾ ton trucks and Suburbans equipped with the 454 and most diesels depending on the transmission the vehicle was equipped. For many years, the 10.5” was also a free flow option under code 1TA in ¾ ton pickups, G-vans and Suburbans. After 2007 the 10.5” was only used on 6.0L 2500 series Burbs when equipped with the towing package and 4:10 gears.


The 9.5” semi-floater began in 1981 in ¾ ton full-size trucks, vans and Suburbans behind small block engines. It was used up until 2013 when GM discontinued the 2500 series Suburban for the 2014 model year (only 1500 series exist on the ugly new 2014 K2XX Suburban and Yuk-On XL). This axle was also the axle used in Hummer H2’s. This axle is better than the 8.5” (10 bolt) axle used in the half tons but nowhere near as strong as the 10.5 full-floater. Most hard core guys remove these 9.5” axles and install 10.5” in their place. I’ve done this swap on 2 Suburbans.

This is great info. My 2500 has the semi floater rear. I am planning to upgrade to a full floater unit. I may go with a pair of matched axles to get something stronger than my front and to get discs on the rear.
Thanks again for the info.

 

[Dutch Matrix]

Here's mine, working with what I got. Want to work on a sleeping platform. 14bolt and bumpers are next.