Pre birth of a camper - No laughing!

Anton2k3

Anton2k3

Adventurer
Aw man, i'm so jealous, i'd love to be at home building a camper! And that hatch, is a superb feature....maybe I need to get to the drawing board and see if it can be done on a panel van!

I was wondering if you were going to take a break in between jobs, assume you are to get the van done...which makes me even more jealous!

How much fresh water are you carrying?
 
Anton2k3

Anton2k3

Adventurer
And nice calorifier! I too have one of those, what size did you go for? Did you get the dual coil one? I went for that with the intention of plumbing the engine into the secondary coil...however after giving it some thought I've decided to plumb engine and diesel water heater on the same circuit with some valves...that way I can use the diesel heater to warm engine up.
 
I

ianc

Adventurer Wannabe
Anton2k3 said:
I was wondering if you were going to take a break in between jobs, assume you are to get the van done...which makes me even more jealous!

How much fresh water are you carrying?
Click to expand...

I only have this week off between jobs and then travelling for about 3 weeks. I hope to have enough done to let the cabinet maker get started - but even that is a stretch goal.

Carrying about 500l fresh water and with chassis space to take another 300 or so tank if needed


Anton2k3 said:
And nice calorifier! I too have one of those, what size did you go for? Did you get the dual coil one? I went for that with the intention of plumbing the engine into the secondary coil...however after giving it some thought I've decided to plumb engine and diesel water heater on the same circuit with some valves...that way I can use the diesel heater to warm engine up.
Click to expand...

It's the 22L dual coil but i'm now also thinking along the same lines as you. Where did you tee into the engine system and do you have a diagram of what you did?
 
docka

docka

Adventurer
I am considering this too, only have a single coil calorifier but still could do it with shut off valves/solenoids. Apparently the Ford Ka 12v valves are ideal to do this and are cheaply available on ebay.

See http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HIGH-...LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19d9419778&_uhb=1

But here's a quote from another forum (SBMCC), not sure if there's any truth in it though...

"theres also another issue in heating an engine thats not running - the oil films can be reduced, leading to bore wear when the engine is started"
 
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Anton2k3

Anton2k3

Adventurer
I'm not sure the oil film will be a problem as the temperatures the 5kw diesel heaters can get up to don't exceed that of normal engine operating temperatures.

I've not got around to tackling the engine plumbing into the circuit yet, but may do if I have time when i'm home in March. I'll put a diagram together before I do it and circulate my plan. I was initially thinking of using shutoff valves, but beginning to think its added complexity, and another thing to break. Lever valves would be nice and reliable, but having to open bonnet every time might get old fast. Just seen that valve docka....that looks ideal, great find! Maybe a switch mounted in the cab would be handy after all!

I don't know why I didn't do it earlier, but your post made me think. Currently I only have the diesel heater plumbed to one coil. However, there is potentially double the heating area available if I put a y piece in and run through both coils.....it should reduce tank heating times quite dramatically. That i will certainly be doing when I'm home.

We have the 40l in our camper, and we (my wife) can sometimes run it out of hot using the shower. I know its too late to be saying it, but maybe 22l is on the small side?

As for tank size, we have around 400l of fresh water, and without being too careful it lasts 3-4 days. Having said that we both shower every day and wash up maybe twice a day. With a family of 4, i guess water consumption could be an issue. How many days are you hoping to go between fills?

Looking forward to seeing plenty of pics over the coming week!
 
M

mmmartin

New member
ianc said:
Docka - Not sure if I will have it removed.

The biggie problem I'm trying to sort at the moment is the steps into the van.
The box fabricators were to make a step but they then realised it was more work than they had anticipated.

The drop from the underside to the ground is 1030mm

I've looked at these http://www.caktanks.co.uk/CAK_Entrance_Steps.htm - They have a three step (ES1057653) in the catalogue but it's v expensive, is 510mm high when folded (limiting ground clearance) and will still leave a 400+mm drop from the last rung.
And also these http://www.avssteps.co.uk/catalogue/step.html?category=9&step=114. Expensive and still leaving a 500mm drop. These guys do a 4 step unit but they are reluctant to recommend it!

Any pointers/suggestions are very welcome
Click to expand...

Hi Ian, body looks good. I also had difficulty with the step into the cabin. My first attempt was to use folding steps that slid into a slot under the body. For the prototype I cut down a domestic set of steps, but it was not long before I realised this system was not going to work. See below.
step 1.jpg

I then looked at several other options but the only one that offered a firm stable step that allowed safe access when carrying beer, was a removable aluminium 4 step unit with an adjustable leg length for when parked on uneven ground. This allowed a + / - of 75mm and was well worth doing. Not the best step but works well, disadvantages of this are it needs a place to be store and has to be lifted in and out. Ok but not good when wet or muddy.

When in Alaska I came accross this step (see below) on the back of a truck as it was waiting to be fitted. It worked well and could be an option for you

21-06-2011 15-59-18 No 0001.jpg21-06-2011 15-59-26 No 0002.jpg21-06-2011 15-59-34 No 0003.jpg21-06-2011 15-59-47 No 0004.jpg21-06-2011 15-59-55 No 0005.jpg

Cost are $190 - $270 US plus taxes and transport so are not cheap, perhaps a good local fabricator could do a nice set for you
 
I

ianc

Adventurer Wannabe
Anton2k3 said:
I'm not sure the oil film will be a problem as the temperatures the 5kw diesel heaters can get up to don't exceed that of normal engine operating temperatures.
Click to expand...

Agreed - This is a common practice in the US and Canada. Oil turning to treacle at -30c is a much bigger problem



Anton2k3 said:
We have the 40l in our camper, and we (my wife) can sometimes run it out of hot using the shower. I know its too late to be saying it, but maybe 22l is on the small side?

As for tank size, we have around 400l of fresh water, and without being too careful it lasts 3-4 days. Having said that we both shower every day and wash up maybe twice a day. With a family of 4, i guess water consumption could be an issue. How many days are you hoping to go between fills?

Looking forward to seeing plenty of pics over the coming week!
Click to expand...

When we were traveling through Central America in the "standard" US Class C camper we were able to get 8 showers plus washing-up and black tank toilet use for 3 days out of a 37 US Gallon tank (140L). This did need discipline.

Very little achieved today. Lots of contemplation.
 
I

ianc

Adventurer Wannabe
docka said:
I am considering this too, only have a single coil calorifier but still could do it with shut off valves/solenoids. Apparently the Ford Ka 12v valves are ideal to do this and are cheaply available on ebay.

See http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HIGH-...LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19d9419778&_uhb=1

But here's a quote from another forum (SBMCC), not sure if there's any truth in it though...

"theres also another issue in heating an engine thats not running - the oil films can be reduced, leading to bore wear when the engine is started"
Click to expand...

Docka - do you know if these draw current when open/closed or only when opening or closing?
 
I

ianc

Adventurer Wannabe
mmmartin said:
When in Alaska I came accross this step (see below) on the back of a truck as it was waiting to be fitted. It worked well and could be an option for you

Cost are $190 - $270 US plus taxes and transport so are not cheap, perhaps a good local fabricator could do a nice set for you
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought of a Scissor step. Now all I have to do is either find a supplier in Europe or a cheap shipping :)

Thanks mmmartin
 
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