Pre birth of a camper - No laughing!
- Thread starter ianc
- Start date
docka
Adventurer
Apparently they are solenoids so will draw current all the time they're energised, whether it's significant or not I don't know yet.
Perhaps a better bet would be a 12v motorised ball valve, check item
271158964084 on eBay.
Hope that helps
J
Anton2k3
Adventurer
So, i've been doing a bit more digging those heater control valves. Apparently they are PWM controlled, meaning that they are not just open/close solenoid, but vary (using variable voltage) the degree to which they are closed (they are normally open) to control the heat in the car. EDIT: I'm reading conflicting information, some say when 12v constant is applied the valve will fully close.
So, i'm not sure they are really suitable. That said, i'm not sure of any alternatives. I bought some cheap solenoid valves for my hot water system (but only have cold running through them) which I was thinking about using. They are pretty flimsy bits of kit though so have some reservations.
I've done some schematics and thinking, and from what I can see, the minimum amount of valves required to get the following modes operation is 3 (single):
- Eber heating van only
- Eber heating engine only
- Engine heating van
I'll try and put something more concrete together as soon as I have it figured.
Edit: this is what i have used inside, only good up to 95 degrees though:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-...ial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item231c71a4d8
So, i'm not sure they are really suitable. That said, i'm not sure of any alternatives. I bought some cheap solenoid valves for my hot water system (but only have cold running through them) which I was thinking about using. They are pretty flimsy bits of kit though so have some reservations.
I've done some schematics and thinking, and from what I can see, the minimum amount of valves required to get the following modes operation is 3 (single):
- Eber heating van only
- Eber heating engine only
- Engine heating van
I'll try and put something more concrete together as soon as I have it figured.
Edit: this is what i have used inside, only good up to 95 degrees though:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-...ial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item231c71a4d8
Last edited:
Docka
Those valves look very like these http://www.baytree.co.uk/products/bts1_2port.html. Note the price difference though
I think the ball valve is the way to go but the valve limitations might push you back to a dual circuit. One downside if the separate circuits is that you need some sort of header tank for the Eber loop.
Also need to add heading water only
Those valves look very like these http://www.baytree.co.uk/products/bts1_2port.html. Note the price difference though
I think the ball valve is the way to go but the valve limitations might push you back to a dual circuit. One downside if the separate circuits is that you need some sort of header tank for the Eber loop.
Also need to add heading water only
docka
Adventurer
Nice one Anton.
While the Ford Ka solenoid valves use some current, they are at least rated for temperature and pressure and I know of at least two people using these in camper vans on the engine cooling circuit with a calorifier. It remains to be seen how significant this current usage is but I understand the need to keep quiescent current to a minimum so I'll keep looking for alternatives... I suppose normally closed would work so that their 12v feed could be switched off when the engine wasn't running?
While the Ford Ka solenoid valves use some current, they are at least rated for temperature and pressure and I know of at least two people using these in camper vans on the engine cooling circuit with a calorifier. It remains to be seen how significant this current usage is but I understand the need to keep quiescent current to a minimum so I'll keep looking for alternatives... I suppose normally closed would work so that their 12v feed could be switched off when the engine wasn't running?
Last edited:
A 3 way might make circuit simpler http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3way-moto...0?pt=Componenti_idraulici&hash=item4170611bea
Here's where I got to:
Here's where I got to:
Attachments
Last edited:
docka
Adventurer
Yes it would. I'd just be concerned that these ball valves are only rated to 90* and the circuit fluid could potentially reach 100* under pressure. Their pressure rating at 1Mpa or 10 bar is ok tho even at altitude...I wonder if there are any 12v solar thermal motorised valves that would be suitably rated, i'll have a look...
Anton2k3
Adventurer
I've got a working system from what I can tell, I'll put up a schematic tomorrow.
Ian, that's what I was going to do, but I can't be bothered with the hassle of running more coolant lines to the back of the van (and making more holes in the van floor!). So, I'll try it with valves if we can find some workable ones. 3 way valves might be worth a look, would only need 2 then.
Any pics today Ian? What's the planned work?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Ian, that's what I was going to do, but I can't be bothered with the hassle of running more coolant lines to the back of the van (and making more holes in the van floor!). So, I'll try it with valves if we can find some workable ones. 3 way valves might be worth a look, would only need 2 then.
Any pics today Ian? What's the planned work?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Overland Hadley
on a journey
Just enjoying watching your build.Sorry Folks
I started the new job on Monday morning and am in London for the week. I didn't get a chance to take photos before I headed.
A lot of effort was put in but it feels like there is very little to show for it. All tanks are now fully mounted. I did make a big mistake and ended up cutting a drain hole in the wrong place. I've patched it and sealed it with sikaflex 212 plus nuts and bolts. It should be fine.
I also got most of the bracing for the floor done and cut out and test fitted the floor panels. What I discovered was that the seating area is probably wider than it should be at 1100mm and the “corridor” is possibly a little narrower than ideal at 600mm. I've not decided yet if this warrants a rework. This would mean cutting the steel frame in situ and re-welding it. Plus the floor panels would need to be redone. It would definitely be a better solution but is it enough to justify the effort?
I also got another small hatch fully fitted.
It's amazing how much time is used contemplating.
I started the new job on Monday morning and am in London for the week. I didn't get a chance to take photos before I headed.
A lot of effort was put in but it feels like there is very little to show for it. All tanks are now fully mounted. I did make a big mistake and ended up cutting a drain hole in the wrong place. I've patched it and sealed it with sikaflex 212 plus nuts and bolts. It should be fine.
I also got most of the bracing for the floor done and cut out and test fitted the floor panels. What I discovered was that the seating area is probably wider than it should be at 1100mm and the “corridor” is possibly a little narrower than ideal at 600mm. I've not decided yet if this warrants a rework. This would mean cutting the steel frame in situ and re-welding it. Plus the floor panels would need to be redone. It would definitely be a better solution but is it enough to justify the effort?
I also got another small hatch fully fitted.
It's amazing how much time is used contemplating.