Project "Autonomous" F-350

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I alluded to an interesting thing that happened during my trip to cover the Vegas to Reno race. I was hoping to get some additional information from a manufacturer but that's been slow to come. Here is my story, your mileage may vary. I was at my last spot of the day and the sun was going down. I had my door open so the dome light was on. I kept hearing a beep and thought it was coming from a young spectator who was playing a game on her phone. When there were no cars coming I could hear well enough to figure out what the beeping was. It was coming from my CTEK D250S. It was the low battery warning. I started the truck and noticed the alternator gauge was reading low. I let the truck run and disconnected the battery cable; the truck died. Luckily, I was not too far outside Tonopah so I headed into town. I had been camping in the desert for two days and was covered in sweat and dirt from a long day in the silt beds so I got a room. Everything was booked because of the race so I had to stay in a dump. You know the kind of place where you peel back the sheets to look for bugs and take a shower with your sandals on. I had two different strangers asking me a bunch of questions about my solar panel in the parking lot so I was worried it would be missing in the morning.

The next day I walked to the auto parts store. They did not have an alternator and would not have one for 4 days. In another bit of luck, the girl at the parts store saw me shooting the day before so she knew who I was and did everything she could to help me. She sent me to a shop up the hill that had a brick nose bronco that was going to be scrapped. For $35 bucks I got the alternator and the harness. My truck had been converted to a 3G, one wire alternator so I needed the harness to make it work. I got it installed, it was charging, so I headed towards Vegas. It soon started to overcharge at 18 volts. It was not internally regulated. I made it to Beatty before I stopped; not wanting to burn up my Odyssey AGM battery. The wires were so hot, they melted the duct tape I used to shield them. I got another room because it was well over 100 degrees, (that blew my whole low-budget trip). I made several calls and was 50% sure there was an alternator in Pahrump so I decided to drive on the batteries as far as I could and call AAA if I didn't make it.

I left Beatty at 8am heading across some desolate Northern Nevada landscape. I made it to the alien/brothel gas station and stopped for fuel. I pulled out my electrical meter and checked the state of charge. It was at 12.5 volts. I know that my CTEK will take a charge from either the solar panel or the alternator depending on which source is greater. What I didn't know is that it also sends juice from the panel to the starting battery. When I got underway, instead of taking the road to Pahrump, I continued south towards Vegas. I drove straight to Henderson before making another stop to check the battery. It was still at 12.5 volts. I decided to keep going to my destination, Laughlin. I made it the whole way. It was a long, hot day with no ac fan running in 116 degree heat but I was safely at my destination. I spent the next couple days in the hotel getting my stories out and took a few hours to run some errands in town. As long as the sun was out, the truck started and drove without issue.

At the end of the week I drove from Laughlin to Hesperia, again with no issues. I wished that I had saved my $35 in Tonopah and the cost of the room in Beatty. In total, I drove 450 miles on solar and battery. The alternator was disconnected. I talked to CTEK but have not been able to reach anyone who can speak to the technical aspects of what went on. I don't know if it's a fluke or an added bonus but I will find out. I have replaced the alternator and will now carry a spare, but it's nice to know that if all else fails, there is still a way to get home.
 
Last edited:

rayra

Expedition Leader
hah, great save by the solar setup. Good reason too to have similar batteries in a dual / multi config, or having a ready method to interconnect an aux battery to your ignition circuits.

Alternator windings / bearing rarely fail. It's usually the internal regulator or condenser, both of which can usually be had for $25-30 (Ford & GM) and which take up about the volume of a cigarette pack and almost no weight.

Most alternators just need the tools to dismount them, the proper nutdrivers to dismantle them, and a toothpick, to swap their guts. I've rebuilt Delco alternators many times over the years, can do the whole thing in about 20mins these days. Even easier with an S-belt.

My old pickup, with the standard GM HEI distributor, I just kept all the old parts as emergency spares when I did some tuneup replacements. Everything AND the cleaned spark plugs and alternator bits all fit in the box the distributor cap came in. Had some ignition gremlins in the mid 90s that had me keeping spares, got the habit then. Needed them a couple times over the many years / miles.

hmm, gives me an idea for a 'group buy' for some Vortec Suburban guys, split a set of coil packs amongst us. They're quite expensive when you get just one. Splitting a set amongst a group of people would be economic. eta $240 for the set of 8, or $50ea if bought singly. so you lose some of the savings in shipping singlets. Meh. Maybe an idea for a Club.
 

DT75FLH

Adventurer
I though I recognized the truck...I saw you passing through Searchlight....and kept thinking..where have I seen that truck before lol
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I though I recognized the truck...I saw you passing through Searchlight....and kept thinking..where have I seen that truck before lol

I had the same thing happen to me when I noticed a fellow expo members truck at KOH. BTW, Do you live in Searchlight? Where do you get groceries?
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
In my efforts to keep my center of gravity low, I want to mount as much as I can as low as possible in the truck. Under the box and under the cab there are large areas where I could carry tools, spares, water tanks, etc. I have been thinking about routing my exhaust out just behind the front wheel and straight up like on some military vehicles. It would free up much more space underneath and keep the exhaust heat away from that area. Does anyone have experience with exhaust routed this way? Thoughts? :snorkel: I am concerned that exhaust could be sucked into the cab.





Deep in the recesses of my brain, I have a thought that custom fuel tanks with external pumps would be a much better set-up than in-tank pumps. Re-routing the exhaust would allow room to mount a pair of tanks, one on each side of the frame rails.
 
Last edited:

DT75FLH

Adventurer
I had the same thing happen to me when I noticed a fellow expo members truck at KOH. BTW, Do you live in Searchlight? Where do you get groceries?

No..I live near Laughlin and shop in bullhead city.....but drive to vegas about 1 a week LOL. I have driven all around Searchlight trails...
 

guidolyons

Addicted to Gear Oil
You don't need a stack or HMMWV high water forcing kit exhaust, just turn it out just in front of your rear tire.

I added a mid-mounted tank between the frame rails on my Scout, I didn't run the exhaust over the rear axle. Mine exits just in front of the rear tire on the driver's side. I never had any problems with exhaust coming in, with a bikini top or hard top with the window down. I have a 7.3L PSD, so diesel fumes would be noticed.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Have you thought of running stacks like how some commercial trucks have them, outside the cab right behind the doors and right in front of the box? Your engine isn't diesel so you won't have to worry about soot buildup on your camper box. If you figure out a way to run fenderwell long-tube headers (they exit the engine then pass right over the frame rails and into the wheel wells) you could stash a pair of mufflers (or two pairs if you want extra quiet) under the cab floors outside the frame rails, then it's just a matter of two 90-degree elbows per side (out and up) and you're vertical and into the stacks. Obviously you'll need some shielding around the stacks, don't want some drunk lowlife to lean against them and burn themselves then slap you with a lawsuit...
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
No..I live near Laughlin and shop in bullhead city.....but drive to vegas about 1 a week LOL. I have driven all around Searchlight trails...

I go through that area a lot. I stay in Laughlin after races to write my stories and relax. Rooms are cheap! I have also spent some time on google earth checking for river access. I want to camp by the water when the temps cool down a bit.
 

Seabass

Idiot
Well, all my tractors have exhaust in front of the cab. No exhaust smell ever enters my nose as long as the stack is taller than my cab. If it is lower, yuk. I'd say go for it! I love original ideas. I ain't never seen an OBS with exhaust like that.....especially a gasser! #GetYourRedneckOn !!!
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
You don't need a stack or HMMWV high water forcing kit exhaust, just turn it out just in front of your rear tire.

I added a mid-mounted tank between the frame rails on my Scout, I didn't run the exhaust over the rear axle. Mine exits just in front of the rear tire on the driver's side. I never had any problems with exhaust coming in, with a bikini top or hard top with the window down. I have a 7.3L PSD, so diesel fumes would be noticed.

I want to use the real estate under the cab. Do you have a build thread? Sounds like a cool truck.

It is looooud!

After 30+ years shooting motorsports, can't hear **** anyways. Not worried about it drowning out my factory am/fm/cassette, lol.

Have you thought of running stacks like how some commercial trucks have them, outside the cab right behind the doors and right in front of the box? Your engine isn't diesel so you won't have to worry about soot buildup on your camper box. If you figure out a way to run fenderwell long-tube headers (they exit the engine then pass right over the frame rails and into the wheel wells) you could stash a pair of mufflers (or two pairs if you want extra quiet) under the cab floors outside the frame rails, then it's just a matter of two 90-degree elbows per side (out and up) and you're vertical and into the stacks. Obviously you'll need some shielding around the stacks, don't want some drunk lowlife to lean against them and burn themselves then slap you with a lawsuit...

Stack yes, but thinking even more compact like the pic below.

Well, all my tractors have exhaust in front of the cab. No exhaust smell ever enters my nose as long as the stack is taller than my cab. If it is lower, yuk. I'd say go for it! I love original ideas. I ain't never seen an OBS with exhaust like that.....especially a gasser! #GetYourRedneckOn !!!

Would look like this:

:Wow1:
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Ok, now move that minis-stack to behind your rear door and right in front of your camper. Obviously not enough space for it there right now, but when you ditch the pickup bed and install the alu box body you just may have enough clearance...

A front-mounted stack like that is just begging for attention from the respective law-enforcement authorities. Which may end up quite unpleasant for you from a financial standpoint... May wanna look up what the federal regulations are regarding exhaust exits. But I'm pretty sure that they need to be behind the passenger compartment. Military vehicles tend to be exempt from many of the laws governing civilian vehicles, so just cause they can get away with certain things doesn't mean your pickup truck can too.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Ok, now move that minis-stack to behind your rear door and right in front of your camper. Obviously not enough space for it there right now, but when you ditch the pickup bed and install the alu box body you just may have enough clearance...

A front-mounted stack like that is just begging for attention from the respective law-enforcement authorities. Which may end up quite unpleasant for you from a financial standpoint... May wanna look up what the federal regulations are regarding exhaust exits. But I'm pretty sure that they need to be behind the passenger compartment. Military vehicles tend to be exempt from many of the laws governing civilian vehicles, so just cause they can get away with certain things doesn't mean your pickup truck can too.

Here is a friend's diesel exhaust, LOL.

 

Seabass

Idiot
.



Stack yes, but thinking even more compact like the pic below.



Would look like this:

:Wow1:[/QUOTE]

DO IT!!!!! PLEASE DO IT!!!! Ain't nobody got that! It'd be so STINKIN cool!!!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,160
Messages
2,902,827
Members
229,582
Latest member
JSKepler
Top