Project BigB... a 1977 Dodge Van 6x4!

[wrcsixeight]

Glad you were able to find the manual!

Try going over to RV net and search for your model fridge. Edit: I just went over there and didn't find any hits, but maybe start a thread over there about it, and see if your model are on a recall list. That forum has a huge participation.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/39 There's many things which are fixable without replacing the cooling unit or circuit board. Such as the ignitor not firing. See if it works on 120v, or 12v. Your propane regulator could be bad. ect...

A 12v/120/Gas fridge is an absorption type Fridge versus a compressor. It needs to be vented. That is why you see 2 vents. One intake, and one exhaust. To eliminate these vents you will need to get a compressor fridge, or put the intake vent in the floor and the exhaust on the roof.
Does the stove work?
How old is the propane?
You need not reply to these questions,
I am just giving a diagnostic scenarios

Good luck

 

[Keyblazer]

I was in Costco today and saw they have 6v Golfcart batteries for about $75 each.
Are these any good?

 

[Keyblazer]

Sorry, looks like we posted the same time..
Ok, I need to run the Refridge a bit longer... I dont know how its wired, so need to get my MM on the connections. Now I have the beast close to hand I can go when I have time, and run it for a while.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Costco 6 volt batteries have a loyal following over at RVnet, but then so do Wallyworld's Everstarts.

What is good about 6v golf cart batteries is that they are guaranteed to be deep cycle batteries. 98% of batteries which say Marine/RV/Trolling/Deepcycle are just slightly more durable starting batteries. They are dual purpose batteries, made to a certain price and designed to last just past the warranty period.

They can work fine under light cycling a couple times a year. If you are going to be abusing batteries by taking them below 50%, and leaving them there for a while, or storing them below 80% then you might as well go with a cheap battery, because a more expensive true Deep Cycle battery is more tolerant of abuse, but still degraded by it.

Your choice of house batteries should be about how many amp hours you can fit in the battery compartment without going over the weight limit. If you are going to regularly cycle your batteries deeply, and treat them well with a good converter and/or smart charger, the true Deep Cycle batteries like Crown and Trojan will yield better longevity, and a higher voltage while discharging.

Golf cart batteries are usually considered the best bang for the buck due to the high numbers sold to golf courses. They also have more room under the plates so more plate debris can accumulate before the cells start shorting out.

 

[Keyblazer]

Good info.
I am working on a ton of levels...
Todays stuff...
I think I am gonna get a NP205 Tcase and a Np200 dual output Tcase to play with. Over on Pirate 4x4 as Wanderer pointed out in an earlier response they say that it can be done... That is to take parts from the NP200 and make a NP 205 into a dual rear output. Failing that I am gonna mount the NP200 divorced to drive both rear axles. There is about 40" between the rears, so the plan would be to run one driveshaft to the fwd rear axle, then run a second driveshaft to a custom bracket with a support bearing mounted to it, then a shaft to the Rear axle.

Been working hard to get my workshop up to speed, and found a lightly used Snap-on Musclemig xl140 Mig and Tig Welder locally.
Its 110v, yet can weld 1/4" in one pass... and has a 100% Duty cycle. I also got the Spool feed gun for Aluminum, and the TIG welding setup. Cos its DC TIG only, it can't TIG Aluminum, but I can do steel and SS and cast iron... I like it!
Its this one... If I had bought it new it would cost like $4500.... I got it for a great price.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1736&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Just need a Tube bender and Notcher and I am getting close!

 

[Keyblazer]

In trying to get advice on the 6x6 I posted a thread over on Pirate4x4...
Got good advice, but someone said it was not really "Hardcore" enough to be there...
So one guy.. S&S posted his vision of BigB to make it more hardcore...
pretty awesome and fun I thought I would share..

 

[Root Moose]

LOL!

Remember that "moon lander" video game from the 1980s? That's what it reminds me of.

PBB and their "hardcore". Some guys will spout off any old BS to make themselves feel special. Your rig is way more hard core than any prissy, done to death Jeep build will ever be.

 

[wanderer-rrorc]

LOL!
PBB and their "hardcore". Some guys will spout off any old BS to make themselves feel special. Your rig is way more hard core than any prissy, done to death Jeep build will ever be.

they are just haters....and mad that once they get done ridin the trails..they have to sleep in a tent on the hard azz ground..:costumed-smiley-007

 

[Harald Hansen]

Cool van, and cool dogs!

 

[77blazerchalet]

Need to get my eyes checked, missed this thread 'til now. My artist side wondered what it would look like with a bit less overhang.

 

[Keyblazer]

Lotsa good info coming down to help me over on the Pirate4x4 forum...
Still trying to understand it all to be honest...
Kinda makes me grin at the "lighthearted flamin" they are handing out to each other...
Here, if you wanna grin too.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=890426

 

[xped]

Just checked out your Pirate4x4 thread. Honestly I had dreams of putting a Cummins diesel in my Dodge 4x4 van, or at least a fuel injected motor, but like someone on Pirate4x4 suggested I'd be better off just buy a Dodge diesel pick up and a slide in camper. You have several problems with upgrading your setup.
1. The transfer case is fulltime 4x4.
2. The front has no selectable hubs.
If you start changing transfer cases to drive the second rear axle you will probably need to change at least the front spindles and hubs. I personally think the dana 44 is undersized for our vans so I'd change to a dana 60 out of a Powerstroke or Dodge diesel. If you want MPG I'd install a gearvendors under/overdrive, although once again the fulltime 4x4 would have to be adressed. The newer Dodge trannys with OD are not as strong as the 727 you have now.
Putting a locker in the one rear axle would probably work better than having two open diff rears. Having two locked rears is another story, but you probably could not turn.
I came to the conclusion with my Dodge that no matter how much money I put into it, it is still a 30 year old RV that will never be like a newer rig and always have issues. So I'm just enjoying it for what it is, It's just to big to be a real offroad machine, but it will blast through some bad spots on dirt roads and climb hills 2 wheel drive cannot. This is just my two cents, I'd love to see the dual driven axles but is it worth the cost.

 

[Keyblazer]

I hear and understand ...... most of it.
Sadly i am in agreement.
Moving on...

 

[Root Moose]

To me this rig is an awesome base camper. I'd make it work for the intended usage (unimproved roads, washouts, etc.). Set it up to float a little Jeep, Ranger, sports car, whatever behind it.

I'd still do the powered rear axle. Make it work using some kind of a setup as outlined on the PBB. I'm not certain if the old transfer cases discussed will take to running backwards at highway speeds over long distance. You'd need to determine the tooth pattern and thrust loads and go from there.

I really like those 9" based axles with the power transmit through the differential. Pricey but all the unknowns about kludging a second power distribution box and whatnot are removed going this way.

Delete any mention of the Rockwell's. This rig needs Rockwell's like a fish needs a bicycle. The PBB is great for advice when it comes to building buggies but a huge portion of the stuff over there should never be allowed on public roads.

I'd stick with the 727. Gear the axles appropriately for highway cruise. This machine uses a NP203 full-time case? If you do the single transfer case approach then consider adding a reduction box after the main case. Something like a NP203 into a NP205. Removes the fulltime, gets you 2x 2.x low ranges to select.

Or swap in a NP205 to replace the NP203 and add a 3:1 gear set. This combined with the 9" rears is simplest, most elegant solution IMO. The 3:1 is more than enough to offset the tall highway cruise gearing in the axles. 3:1 is not über low gearing by today's standards but then where are you taking this rig that it needs more? Arguably 2:1 will be enough - certainly initially. The NP205 is plenty strong, maybe even for this rig.

The NP203 can be turned into a part time case but I don't think there are any aftermarket low range gearing options.

I agree that a Dana 60 front end is a worthwhile setup.

Diesel? Meh. Even with the difference in efficiency you'd never get your money back. Well, maybe if you drove to the sun and back a few times you would. Leave the engine alone unless you want another project once all this other stuff is done.

Do this stuff over time so that the cash outlay isn't that big and is spread out. Or ramp up the line of credit and get it done. I always enjoy spending other people's money. LOL

$0.02

 

[Keyblazer]

Yeah, both of you are correct.
The idea of a Diesel is alluring, I even had a dream a few weeks ago, where I was going to a backcountry camp, and had to get up a long steep rocky gully... the mental image of my rig starting up the grade, from a diesel clattering idle, into a turbo whistle, onto a gruff torque grumble. A steady pull up, with the axles articulating as I picked my line.... I woke up buzzed!

The reality is the 360 in it today had an expensive and extensive $6k rebuild in 1998... less than 5k miles ago, and the trans is fresh too I think. Lets not even get into getting the Diesel conversion smog exempt here in cali... i hear it can be done, but its tricky. So lets build on what I have, and if a motor goes bang, look at that later!

I plan today is thus...
As both of you said, and I concur, its a backroads basecamper, a camper than can get me on and off the Beach, and up to Mammoth for some skiing. It has way too much rear overhang for really tough stuff, and if I drop the genset to get the interior floor flat I might loose more.

What about adding a doubler behind the 203... like this..
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/doubler.htm

Then, maybe maybe if someone can figure out how to make a 205 with 2 outputs to the rear, I can do that later...

In the meantime... It came to me that if I added Airbags to the rear springs, I could adjust the pressure to the driven rear axle to push down if I get stuck...
Ride height could be adjusted to to get over stuff, or accomodate towing loads.
I dont know if the rear axle has a locker in it... I hope it does!

In the meantime, I am gonna start stripping out the interior, and figure that out!