Sure.
Shot #1: Up at 4:30 am, hike 3 km in the rain, eat a granola bar along the way. LOL. In all seriousness though, once there, it was camera out, tripod mounted, with a 20mm, and a polarizer on and cranked to maximum polarization. I composed the shot, set the focus manually, and dialed in the aperture to F8. In this case I was shooting down off a ridge with some distance between me and the nearest elements in the shot. Like most lenses this lens shows best between 5.6-8. Considering the distance to the nearest element wasn't all that close and with the lens being a wide angle, F8 gave plenty of depth for this shot and allowed me to keep the lens close to its best aperture. Mirror up, remote released, 2 sec exposure. Once loaded into LR, I set the white balance, fine tuned the curves, pulled the saturation down a touch, and voila.
Shot #2: No hikes or early rises here, this is at about 4 in the afternoon with a storm moving in. I visualized this picture as a B&W before I took it and shot it accordingly. Same camera setup as the previous shot, 20mm, and tripod mounted. Here I used a polarizer but I backed it off about 50-75% until the water gave me enough reflection to emulate the curved shape of the cloud. Then I used a 2 stop hard edge grad over the sky. Mirror lock up, remote released, F11 at 1/25 sec. Once loaded into LR I set the white balance, and desaturated the image manually using the HSL panel (hue, saturation, luminance). I moved the luminace values around until I got the result I wanted, and again, voila. If I were to shoot this shot again I'd move a touch closer and get a bit higher to bring more reflection in to the front side of the rock. The cloud was moving pretty fast, and as is the case sometimes when dealing with nature in action, it can be difficult to think through the best position for every element.
Hope that helps.
