Rango.....1942 Willys MB

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Just a little bit every day......just a little bit every day....

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I made some 'pads' for the XY pedal assembly out of some scrap 2" wide, 1/8" thick flat stock I found laying around...hope I didn't need to that for something else? Anyways. I didn't think that rubber pads where going to look right in a 70 year old jeep, so I made some larger 3" wide steel versions with some thread welded to the tops. The new pads where bent a little bit into a large radius to fit around the factory XJ pedals. The little nubs didn't turn out as perfect as I wanted....but at this point I don't think it matters. I offset the pads to the inside of the factory small pedal....so each pedal now hangs off about 1-1.25" extra toward the middle of the vehicle.

That big bracket laying on the floor is going to tie the pedal assembly into the dash area. That should help keep everything in place for the next 70 years or so.

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That bracket ties into the top of the pedal assembly where it was trimmed off. I need to get some button head 1/4" bolts to hold everything together. I think it will be easier to assemble loose and then tighten everything up when its in the vehicle. Nothing is perfectly straight anymore....

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I also made a brace/template that goes between the pedal assembly and the firewall to help mark the position of the clutch master cylinder. Its going to be tight, but everything should fit nicely. These old flat fenders really are basically just like a fancy 4wd go-cart. As a note, take off the drivers fender to drill holes in the firewall, its worth the extra time for sure.

I would have to throw another vote out for using a completely blank tub like one from Aqualu, it would sure make things like this a little cleaner and easier!
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
Yea for updates! :)

Looking good! I like the foot pads, they keep with the original theme of using less wear prone (rubber) parts. And I can understand your desire for starting with a "fresh" tub. There is a line between upgrading our heeps that you crossed over. The new land is called re-inventing! :) One is the application of maybe non original parts to existing purposes. Yours is making the same concept except in a way/position farther from where it was designed. While a new, blank tub would have been easyR...I don't know if I could justify the expense given how much you have changed things? Maybe in your case it would have been better to just cut out the majority of the firewall and floor and weld in unmolested sheet metal.?.
And your right that these are a lot like over grown go-carts! Clad you used that reference instead of a "side by side" since those things are more technically advanced...not to mention expensive! lol!
By the way...Your killing me with this! The flat fender jones has been eating away at me to the point I've been trolling Craigslist in Colorado looking. And I'm still in Germany!! haha! Have found a few nice options but sadly even some of the real junk/rust buckets are being sold by greedy souls! Sigh...oh well...I still have the Commando project and the Bantam trailer to build when I return. :)
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Looking good! I like the foot pads, they keep with the original theme of using less wear prone (rubber) parts. And I can understand your desire for starting with a "fresh" tub. There is a line between upgrading our heeps that you crossed over. The new land is called re-inventing! :) One is the application of maybe non original parts to existing purposes. Yours is making the same concept except in a way/position farther from where it was designed. While a new, blank tub would have been easyR...I don't know if I could justify the expense given how much you have changed things? Maybe in your case it would have been better to just cut out the majority of the firewall and floor and weld in unmolested sheet metal.?.
And your right that these are a lot like over grown go-carts! Clad you used that reference instead of a "side by side" since those things are more technically advanced...not to mention expensive! lol!
By the way...Your killing me with this! The flat fender jones has been eating away at me to the point I've been trolling Craigslist in Colorado looking. And I'm still in Germany!! haha! Have found a few nice options but sadly even some of the real junk/rust buckets are being sold by greedy souls! Sigh...oh well...I still have the Commando project and the Bantam trailer to build when I return. :)

I was referring specifically to starting with an Aqualu aluminum tub. When I talked with them at EJS they where more than willing to take on custom ideas. I think they could build a tub with most of the modifications I did fairly easy. I would have them raise the rear wheel tubs, keep the floor flat without a tunnel since its going to get cut out anyways, move the step in the floor back slightly, ditch the machine gun 'hump' in the floor step, probably delete the tailgate like the MB, etc. The firewall would also be clean and unmolested without all the captured nuts on the backside that get in the way when mounting things. That would be about a 4-5K investment, but if you where starting from scratch anyways I would HIGHLY consider going that route and building a frame.......then just fill in the drivetrain with whatever flavor you want.

If you want to do a project basically like this....just buy a new tub and build a frame like I did from scratch. There really isn't a lot of stuff in a flat fender that you would want to keep if your going to take the build as far as I did.

An old ( or new?) flat fender is a thousand times more better than a side by side! For 12-16K you could scratch build a hell of a flat fender. One of the biggest bonuses to the flat fender is that you can drive them on the road. Here in Colorado they frown on side by sides on the road....other states are far better about that.

Again.....if you want to build one of these things think REALLY hard about just buying a tub and building a frame....unless your going for the 'purest' restoration thing. I would also highly suggest going with a drivers drop front axle and pushing the engine/transmission/t-case over to the passenger side. Overall I think this would work out better when starting from scratch. If your building the frame from scratch I would also consider making it slightly wider to match a wider front axle. I honestly thing something like a YJ SUA front high pinion Dana 30 could be a very decent front axle.....with a retube on the long side to ditch the CAD system. It would be really interesting to build a shorter one of those too....but having the frame built a little wider and using stock length axle shafts could be nice. I would also highly consider *gasp* a Toyota based from axle. With all the aftermarket front housings avaliable now.....probably not a bad way to go. If I had to pick an engine from scratch I would probably stay away from anything bigger than V6. I like the growl and rumble of a V8 just as much as the next guy, but V8's just don't fit as well. Something as small as the 2.4L VVT ecotec could be FANTASTIC in a light weight flat fender. I think they make almost 200hp with the MEFI-5 controller. I think the often overlooked Ford 3.8 could be a great low buck junkyard swap for a flat fender.

Ramble Ramble Blah Blah.
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
Zeppelin says...

Like Zeppelin said... Ramble on brotha! lol!
I understand and agree with what you mean. If going for what your shooting at then from scratch would save effort, and time is money sometimes. Building using existing jeep/parts is always a compromise and to get where you want takes more work.
Any original flatty has raw jeep perfection when used within its scope of design. Will it do 70 all day? No... but it will happily do 45 and knock down great fuel numbers doing it. But as a "do-it-all-ok" platform I would say it is far better, dollars to doughnuts, than any side by side.
Found this on CL...
info
1950 Willys CJ3A - $2500 (Castle rock)
Date: 2011-12-27, 6:09PM MST
Reply to: sale-dn79c-2771602096@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]
1950 Willys CJ3A - running original flathead rebuilt engine. Body in great condition. Everything operational, roll-bar and bikini top. Garage kept, but wife wants the space for her car. Clean Title.

Location: Castle rock
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

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And for me it would do just the way it is. If I was in a hurry I'd take my VW. If I was going rock crawling or planned on being out for a week or more, my Scrambler would get the nod. But for general duties on the farm, woods, or a trip to town for food or a movie...Give me a basic flatty. :)
Your build is going towards making an already good design just that much better and able to go further and do more. That is part of what I enjoy in following your thread.
If you really want to bench race, try this idea on for size. Money being no limit of course... ;)
Try and Aquala aluminum body built to your specs. Add a modern, vacuum formed, all aluminum frame. Go with strong but light axles on fiberglass mono springs. Add an all aluminum V6 or something similar and build a Super light weight, Flatty sized jeep able to crawl where ever yet have really low CG. Only problem with that entire idea is eventually the driver becomes the only heavy object to worry about. And I never plan to go on a diet to enjoy my jeep! :)
 

wjeeper

Active member
*snip*
That would be about a 4-5K investment, but if you where starting from scratch anyways I would HIGHLY consider going that route and building a frame.......then just fill in the drivetrain with whatever flavor you want.
I coudln't agree more about just buying a new tub and doing it "right". After spending a few hours looking at a stock tub there were a lot of little disadvantages to a stock tub. Such as the captured nuts, drilled holes and a few minor details are in the wrong spot. As far as the bodywork goes I really like the Aqualu option. I spent some time talking to them over the phone and they could accommodate the body mods I have in mind for a good price considering the craftsmanship!

I have been spending a lot of time looking for a tub that fits my needs and budget. I think I have a line on some galvanized steel tubs that would work perfect for my "benchtop jeep"...... just $3000 delivered to my door. (includes the tub, tailgate, windshield frame, hood, fenders, grill shell and a bunch of hardware:Wow1:) They have no holes in the dash or firewall, flat floors (no trans tunnel) so they are really a "blank canvas" that would be a perfect jumping off point........I will have to post up some more details on my thread so I dont clutter up your thread.


A flat fender is a thousand times more better than a side by side! For 12-16K you could scratch build a hell of a flat fender. One of the biggest bonuses to the flat fender is that you can drive them on the road. Here in Colorado they frown on side by sides on the road....other states are far better about that.
I would say more than a thousand times better:sombrero: Here in Utah you can register a side by side to be street legal (kinda sorta anyways) and for the price you could have a real head turner flat fender. SXS's just dont have the appeal of a vintage looking jeep.


I would also highly suggest going with a drivers drop front axle and pushing the engine/transmission/t-case over to the passenger side. Overall I think this would work out better when starting from scratch. If your building the frame from scratch I would also consider making it slightly wider to match a wider front axle. I honestly thing something like a YJ SUA front high pinion Dana 30 could be a very decent front axle.....with a retube on the long side to ditch the CAD system. It would be really interesting to build a shorter one of those too....but having the frame built a little wider and using stock length axle shafts could be nice. I would also highly consider *gasp* a Toyota based from axle. With all the aftermarket front housings avaliable now.....probably not a bad way to go. If I had to pick an engine from scratch I would probably stay away from anything bigger than V6..
Sounds like the conclusions that I keep coming up with. My whole idea started life as "lets swap a YJ drivetrain into a flatty body" because I had an extra one laying around. However the picture is slowly coming into view that it may be a better donor vehicle than I had originally thought. It just seems to be a good fit.

I have been watching you build with great enthusiasm as I gather ideas and parts to build my dream jeep. I love the build! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I will try and get the updates going again. We had a bit of a family emergency on new years. The misses sister and husband where hit while crossing the street by a drunk driver that then decided to flee the scene....totally GREAT way to start 2012 let me tell you! Things are getting back to more normal for us so I should have some more time to work on the Willys....
 

lowenbrau

Explorer
I will try and get the updates going again. We had a bit of a family emergency on new years. The misses sister and husband where hit while crossing the street by a drunk driver that then decided to flee the scene....totally GREAT way to start 2012 let me tell you! Things are getting back to more normal for us so I should have some more time to work on the Willys....

Bad news! I sure hope everyone is recovering ok.
 

wjeeper

Active member
Thats no good news to hear at all. I hope all goes well with the family members and they recover soon!
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Just a little bit.....at least it's something!
Anyways.....

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I made a simple battery mount for the optima. I still need to make a hold down strap that goes over the top of the battery. I'm thinking a formed sheetmetal strap with a small cam buckle?

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I hid these little brackets on the underside of the battery for the strap to provide an attachment point for the hold down strap....

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The battery is going to go here under the drivers seat in the old foot well. All the weight is nice and low. I wanted the battery to sit of the floor of the sump a touch so that if I do end up hitting the sump on a big rock the battery has a little air space around it. There is still a decent amount of room in the sump for other stuff....maybe a small electric air compressor, tool bag, or some spare parts?
 

trailrunner

Observer
I may be confused, but isn't your fuel tank going to be under/close to the seats as well? Are you concerned about the location of the battery (spark potential, etc.) with regard to the fuel?
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I may be confused, but isn't your fuel tank going to be under/close to the seats as well? Are you concerned about the location of the battery (spark potential, etc.) with regard to the fuel?

The fuel tank is being relocated to the rear tub area and probably under the tub behind the rear axle in the end....

Sorry for the lack of updates everyone, I am stuck in limbo right now trying to get some things together for the tear down and final welding of the frame...
 

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