RK's MANi-Van - UP FOR SALE

[Loopie]

Any specs I may have given on the brake upgrade are just referenced from the other van forums. I haven't yet done it myself.
I just looked up the brake caliper part #'s for a 97, 95 and 94...they all call for the same part...so I don't think that's the issue. One point I recall is that the bigger caliper needs to be from a single rear wheel application, not a dually...
It'd be very helpful RK if you could tell us exactly which part you tried...Thx

 

[Herbie]

I disconnect the lines here first, then use the weak fuel pump to pump the fuel out of the tank before lowering it.

Just jumper to the pump leads, or what?

 

[RocKrawler]

Any specs I may have given on the brake upgrade are just referenced from the other van forums. I haven't yet done it myself.
I just looked up the brake caliper part #'s for a 97, 95 and 94...they all call for the same part...so I don't think that's the issue. One point I recall is that the bigger caliper needs to be from a single rear wheel application, not a dually...
It'd be very helpful RK if you could tell us exactly which part you tried...Thx

I wasnt upset, just needed to swap the rotors and the 95 SRW 2WD calipers and pads wouldnt work on my brackets. I have the type that bolt on solid from behind, and the 95 truck calipers float on pins

 

[Loopie]

You tried a 2wd caliper???...direct quote from the guy who first brought this mod to the Astro/Safari community...."4wd 1 ton(or >8600 GVWR 3/4 ton) pickup"...additional notes were that it be a single rear wheel spec, not dually, and the yr he ordered for was '98 but other yrs are possibly the same.

Hope that helps ya

 

[RocKrawler]

You tried a 2wd caliper???...direct quote from the guy who first brought this mod to the Astro/Safari community...."4wd 1 ton(or >8600 GVWR 3/4 ton) pickup"...additional notes were that it be a single rear wheel spec, not dually, and the yr he ordered for was '98 but other yrs are possibly the same.

Hope that helps ya

Will try that setup next...

 

[RocKrawler]

Well with the fuel pump changed I thought everything was going to be just peachy, and it was.... until last night. On the way to pick up a movie at RedBox it stalled at a stop sign. It quickly restarted and I was on the way again, but that never happens with this van. This morning I crawled under the van to change the fuel filter and I think bad things are underfoot in my filter. Clear fuel poured out the front and pure evil out the back - a good sign the filter was doing its job, and hoping this will be the end of my issues. A gritty brown mess came out the inlet so I'm hoping it was from moisture that built up during the year or so it sat in the PO's backyard before it got up and running again to sell. I know they put in a new pump and screen to get it running and passed smog, but the filter looks like an older piece We shall see. For anyone getting ready to do the job you need an 11mm (for the bracket) and 16mm (for the fittings) wrenches and the filter is on the inner "frame" structure on the drivers side just in front of the tank. I used a Napa Gold 3481 filter for my 1996, about $14 - total job about 15 minutes, cleanup about the same to get the gas small off your hands and arms.
While underneath I noticed the parking brake cable bracket just behind the drivers side subframe rail was kinked badly - missed that on the initial install. I will be fabbing a drop bracket for this piece and post up a few pics when I find the material and do the job.

 

[Loopie]

Re-drill the bracket to move the cable up over that tab...1/2" hole plus a little bit with a round file and the cable clip will still "snap" into place
(not sure where this pic is from, but it's clearer than the ones I took during my own install)

 

[RocKrawler]

Re-drill the bracket to move the cable up over that tab...1/2" hole plus a little bit with a round file and the cable clip will still "snap" into place
(not sure where this pic is from, but it's clearer than the ones I took during my own install)

Thats a much simpler solution... I wonder if my cable is toast now from being torqued for so long around that bracket?

 

[Herbie]

Re-drill the bracket to move the cable up over that tab...1/2" hole plus a little bit with a round file and the cable clip will still "snap" into place
(not sure where this pic is from, but it's clearer than the ones I took during my own install)

Also, if you pooch the first one, there's a spare bracket not doing anything on the passenger side. :Wow1:

 

[RocKrawler]

So if anyone with a lifted Astro should pull up to a Jeep JK with an idiot for an owner that says "nice minivan" in a very condescending tone to look good in front of his buddy, might I suggest the following reply: "Nice JK, you know my minivan motor is bigger than your minivan motor. Why dont we race our minivans to the next light and when you finally get there, we'll see how cool you look in front of your boyfriend". I found out a little while ago this shuts them up rather quickly. Note, this will not work with those that have the hemi swap done, but for the average geek with the 3.8L Grand Caravan slug it works wonderful. I had to vent, now back to the regularly scheduled program...

 

[Loopie]

"I have a bed back there...do you know where your Daughter is?"

 

[RocKrawler]

Punk late teen or early 20's - maybe girlfriend, daughter for him would have been kinda gross, but for an older guy that would work!

 

[Maximus Ram]

So he didn't race you ?

 

[RocKrawler]

Amazingly no. That also wont work with the new +60 HP motor guys either... But it was fun for the moment today!

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt.

 

[RocKrawler]

Apparently there is another weak link in the Astro fuel system = the sender harness. So I go out to the van last night to go home from work and it cranks but no start. One of the mechanics comes over and checks it out, key on and no fuel pump sound. I start cursing the Astro pumps and determining the access door in the floor would have been the best idea ever thought up, ever. We push it into the shop and confirm the pump isnt working. I called our supplier and he says to check the wiring, he has seen a lot of them go out on Astros. We check voltage at the pump and its 8V. Huh... We dropped the tank today and pulled the pump, put 12V to it on the bench and it buzzes happily away like a good pump should. We test voltage at the harness plug, 12+V. The we check sender to harness plug, 12V. Interior plug to end of connection near float, 12V. Here's where it got weird... check from float plug to end of harness plug, (through the sender top and plug just under it) and got 8V. Pulled the plug attaching the float wires to the underside of the sender cap, viola - 2 burnt connectors on the plug/underside of sender cap, short dropping current. Clean the connections and its back to 12V all the way through. New sender is ordered and showing up tomorrow, so if you have a known good pump but still not working, check the sender harness top & bottom for damage & shorts and replace accordingly. This should solve my problem for good. Results report and pics of the offending harness tomorrow. Also discovered rust in the tank, if anyone has a spare tank locally reasonably priced please let me know.