Roll cages, your views

Funrover

Expedition Leader
What have some of you RRC guys done? I want to keep use of all the seating and cargo area! Just curious thanks!
 

Hunter

Adventurer
ntsqd said:
A footnote on load spreading plates, I've run across the idea that they should not be the same size & shape. The idea being that if they are differently shaped or of different dimensions that they can't act in concert to shear through whatever sheet metal the cage is bolted to.

That is exactly right. The upper plates should be bigger than the lower. Maybe 6x6 on top with a 5x5 on the bottom as an example. Otherwise the plates will act in the same manner as a punch or a shear. Also, make sure to round the corners of the plates so they dont dig in and tear if they start moveing around during a roll.
 

Spikepretorius

Explorer
That will be Bar. We use Bar/KPA (same thing, different decimal point) We don't use psi over here.
Those are relatively high pressures for carrying a heavy load at speed.
 
Last edited:

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
OK, that makes more sense. I figured it had to be something like that, since 3 PSI at those speeds would be insane.

I'm not familiar with that tire. Is it fairly reliable?
 

Spikepretorius

Explorer
Continental is a German tyre but we have a factory here. That particular tyre was popular a while back but not anymore. Better stuff has become available here. Those Conti's are joked about as Conticrap not Contitrac
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
We had the same kind of thing happen with Goodyear tires that were installed on Ford Explorers from the factory. Usually it happened when the tires were run outside of design specs (improper inflation, low tread...), but the result was much the same. Caused a big stink and many lawsuits.

At any rate (sorry about the hijack), this highlights the importance of good tires, maintaining critical systems, and the fact that despite all your planning and preparation, fate is out to get you.

I can certainly see the use in installing a properly-designed cage, but not at the expense of skimping on other systems.
 

SeaRubi

Explorer
thots:

The B-pillar on RRC and D1 Rover vehicles is quite strong. It will survive a medium speed rollover pretty well. The A-pillar will crush -this is the big liability.

Any cage you can integrate -slash- graft onto your rig is better than nothing, safety devices, jeep dudes, whatever. It's an expense that you have to suck up to. This is one of the areas that, for convenience, put me behind the wheel of a jiip.

end-story: budget for a cage, external, internal - who cares. Doesn't matter what side of the sheet-metal the tube is on. Have one :) and feel mo betta.
 

Chucaro

Adventurer
SeaRubi said:
thots:...................................................................
end-story: budget for a cage, external, internal - who cares. Doesn't matter what side of the sheet-metal the tube is on. Have one :) and feel mo betta.

I agree with your point of view, I will look into a interior roll cage for inside my Disco just behind the front seats. I am planning to remove the rear seats for extra cargo and room for my large dog so the ROPs is going to be dual purpose roll cage and cargo barrier.
Cheers
 

Michele

Observer
mountings

Sorry if I write so late but didn't manage to take pics for a while...

Just to show you what I got for my cage (yet in bits) which came with (sorry to say that) very "poor" front hoop mounts.
The cage itself is very nice and I like the fact the front hoop is one piece which goes through the wings straight down to the front outriggers for maximum strenght (no brackets no bolts in the middle).

These are the new mounting brackets I got from Equipe,they're based on the Safety Devices ones and used with Equipe own line of rollcages.
Note the extra bracket which allows you to fit an extra bolt to better spread the load on the outrigger.

The last pic shows the mounting originally supplied with the cage...:littlefriend:
 
Last edited:

gordo

New member
Michele said:
Sorry if I write so late but didn't manage to take pics for a while...

Just to show you what I got for my cage (yet in bits) which came with (sorry to say that) very "poor" front hoop mounts.
The cage itself is very nice and I like the fact the front hoop is one piece which goes through the wings straight down to the front outriggers for maximum strenght (no brackets no bolts in the middle).

These are the new mounting brackets I got from Equipe,they're based on the Safety Devices ones and used with Equipe own line of rollcages.
Note the extra bracket which allows you to fit an extra bolt to better spread the load on the outrigger.

The last pic shows the mounting originally supplied with the cage...:littlefriend:

Looks good. Im assuming the old ones are designed to be welded to the outrigger and the tube slides in? The new ones look like the SD ones that have the bolt through the body design feet that bolt to the mount. So I guess you would still have to weld a sleeve to the new mounts. Just curious as I just built a cage for my series (posted photos earlier). I used the bolt through body front hoop but designed sliders that the cage feet mount to. I was worried about how to get the fender off if I ever wanted to w/o pulling the cage as it is a TIGHT FIT on mine. Gordo
 
Last edited:

Michele

Observer
Yup,but it'd never make sense to weld those things,they look hopeless...
This is something I really can't understand,I mean you sell a nice,well made product (the cage,at least I hope it'll turn out fine once built) and you fall on such little details...?!?

I guess too I'll ask the fabricator to add a sleeve to my new mounts,and to modify my custom made sliders as they'll fit no more after the mounts will be in place...argh!

It's never over!
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
187,606
Messages
2,895,809
Members
228,596
Latest member
donaldsonmp3
Top