Say Hello to Garth - 1973 Series III

[evilfij]

Rear diff or half shaft. Really easy to replace the half shaft. Pull the flange on both sides, figure out which one broke, take a long rod and hammer the broken end out from the non-broken side. New ones are cheap. HD 10 splines are available for some extra money. The recovery points you want are D style lifting rings.

http://www.firstfour.co.uk/item/707154/bumper-d-ring--pair-

 

[flipstah]

Rear diff or half shaft. Really easy to replace the half shaft. Pull the flange on both sides, figure out which one broke, take a long rod and hammer the broken end out from the non-broken side. New ones are cheap. HD 10 splines are available for some extra money. The recovery points you want are D style lifting rings.

http://www.firstfour.co.uk/item/707154/bumper-d-ring--pair-

Thanks. Depending on the severity, this may be an opportunity to source Salisbury axles or locking diffs (Detroit Truetrac)?

 

[evilfij]

You can replace the read diff with a trutrac or arb but you need the spacer ring and new bearings and HD axles. In other words, $$$$. A sals is great for a 109, but on an 88 it makes the rear drive shaft really short and you have to reweld the sprint perches.

Post up what is broken and we will help you through it.

 

[flipstah]

You can replace the read diff with a trutrac or arb but you need the spacer ring and new bearings and HD axles. In other words, $$$$. A sals is great for a 109, but on an 88 it makes the rear drive shaft really short and you have to reweld the sprint perches.

Post up what is broken and we will help you through it.

I'll post up what is found over the weekend. Stay tuned.

 

[dibsen]

Sorry to hear about the break. Look like you had a fun shake down day. I was looking at that 110 with the soft top, I have been really wanting a soft top for my SIII but to be honest, I thought the top on that green 110 looked pretty bad.

 

[flipstah]

Sorry to hear about the break. Look like you had a fun shake down day. I was looking at that 110 with the soft top, I have been really wanting a soft top for my SIII but to be honest, I thought the top on that green 110 looked pretty bad.

The 88" can be a soft top as well but it's blue so it's a bit odd. Was hoping it was black...

The soft top includes the doors, which sucked, because he kept dropping stuff through lol.

Hoping it's a halfshaft issue, which is 'easy' according to this:

http://www.legionlandrover.com/manu...n rear half shaft in a series land rover.pdf

Using the link above as a reference, it is a right axle shaft issue, which thankfully, broke at the drive flange end (closest to the wheel) :

Left shaft is fine:

Nothing stuck in-between the diff (you can see the other side through the white light) but will still open it to inspect.

Anybody know what would cause this?

 

[evilfij]

No need to open the diff. The stock half shafts break frequently. Nothing of any real concern. Just replace it.

 

[flipstah]

^ The diff was opened up anyway and we found what looks to be, a new diff (not OEM):

The diff came off for inspection which was a good thing, because we found no gaskets or sealants on it. That's why it leaks hard. Facepalm.

 

[jamesfuller]

Hi, nice Land Rover and an interesting thread. Its quite common for the short shaft to break, usually in the diff though. I would carry a very strong magnet so you can remove the broken end and fit a new shaft without removing the diff and losing all your oil. It will happen!

 

[Red90]

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/StoreDisplay.asp?SL=92&MID=&ImageID=3

 

[flipstah]

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/StoreDisplay.asp?SL=92&MID=&ImageID=3

 

[evilfij]

Why do you say that looks new? It looks like a series diff to me (red paint is factory).

If I had know it leaked I would have said to pull it but just the broken shaft does not require pulling the diff.

I would use RTV over the factory gasket. If you do use the factory gasket, smear hylomar on both sides when fitting.

 

[flipstah]

Why do you say that looks new? It looks like a series diff to me (red paint is factory).

If I had know it leaked I would have said to pull it but just the broken shaft does not require pulling the diff.

I would use RTV over the factory gasket. If you do use the factory gasket, smear hylomar on both sides when fitting.

Red paint is factory? Then I stand corrected. The pictures I saw on the internet weren't red, hence I made that naive assumption.

RTV? Is it this one?:

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1295873&cp=2568443.2568455.2629690.1259010

 

[evilfij]

I prefer black adhesive RTV, but the blue will work. The blue I like the the drive shaft flanges.

Right Stuff is the best. (Google it) Then black permatex adhesive RTV.

 

[flipstah]

Picking up the bits and pieces of the carnage inside. It's not the diff teeth but the shaft.

Closer look at the Weber twin choke.

Weird adaptor-welding contraption going on here.

So we found a fuel pump...

That leads to a reservoir that feeds the carburetor but have no idea if it's pumping fuel or not.

Does this serial # mean anything? Tried looking to determine if it's a 3 or 5-bearing 2.25L but no serial # near the exhaust port....

Behold the Fairey OD!

Dry as a bone.

There's this crescent-shapped nut in the picture above that can feely move and it's leaking oil. What is it?

Meanwhile, transmission mounts are on and engine mounts are next.