School me on home-defense (gun related).

Dave Bennett

Adventurist
Dave, I totally respect your personal experience. Nevertheless, investigation into the physics of spring steel will show you that a properly-made magazine spring will not fatigue under constant compression if it's within its designed measurements.

If your Beretta springs were failing, they were badly made springs and would have failed anyway - in fact, probably sooner had they been constantly loaded and unloaded. Such springs should be replaced whether or not you unload them for long-term storage. I'm aware of a failure (fracturing) issue with 92 slides some years back. That didn't prove that open-slide semi-auto designs are prone to fracturing; it just proved Beretta made some bad slides. And that our military needs a new sidearm . . .

I've heard just as many old-timer's tales of 1911s left loaded for 50 years, that subsequently functioned perfectly. But even those are just anecdotes; it's the physics that tell the truth.

You're totally right, and our old Beretta's were worn out before the first shot was fired. I'm sure the sand and moon dust didnt help anything. But now it has me paranoid that MY magazine springs will suffer this fate so I store them carefully in pristine condition, in my safe :)
 

Jonathan Hanson

Well-known member
I understand.

The point I was trying to make was in aid of making sure some poor sod doesn't leave his personal weapon unloaded by the bedside for fear of magazine-spring fatigue, until he hears someone coming up the stairs at midnight.
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:sombrero: I have Colts/S & W/Rock Island/Springfield A-etc 1911's

I keep the S & W 1911 "cocked & Locked" 24/7, several years ago I had heard the same caution on "loaded" mags, so I fully loaded a S & W 45acp mag (7-rounds), marked it with masking tape and set it in a safe, did all my practicing with the other mags

Then some time after a year, I noticed the LOADED-MARKED mag in one of my safes, so I took it out and tried it in my S & W 1911

No difference in speed or function

Now this doesn't prove anything , but it LENDS CREDENCE to the practice, of using GOOD quality magazines

I have a dozen Ruger plastic .22 mags, but I never keep them loaded ANYWAY

Also, I'm a little old school, I don't like to physically "unload" a magazine, they are designed to "load and shoot"

Course all my S & W stuff is SS, could have something to do with it

A sure cure, if you're worried about keeping your mags loaded to long is----PRACTICE-PRACTICE !!

:costumed-smiley-007:safari-rig::safari-rig: JIMBO
 

SunTzuNephew

Explorer
GunBan.jpg


:elkgrin:

Thats nicer than the one I quoted him: "The house next door is defensless by choice. Mine is not"
 

SunTzuNephew

Explorer
Dave, I totally respect your personal experience. Nevertheless, investigation into the physics of spring steel will show you that a properly-made magazine spring will not fatigue under constant compression if it's within its designed measurements.

If your Beretta springs were failing, they were badly made springs and would have failed anyway - in fact, probably sooner had they been constantly loaded and unloaded. Such springs should be replaced whether or not you unload them for long-term storage. I'm aware of a failure (fracturing) issue with Beretta 92 slides some years back. That didn't prove that open-slide semi-auto designs are prone to fracturing; it just proved Beretta made some bad slides. And that our military needs a new sidearm . . .

I've heard just as many old-timer's tales of 1911s left loaded for 50 years, that subsequently functioned perfectly. But even those are just anecdotes; it's the physics that tell the truth.

The springs in the early (after adoption by the US military, of the M9/92FS) were poorly made. So poorly made, in fact that when the US was going to invade Haiti many troops were only given 1 magazine, since functional magazines were in very short supply.

Despite the contempt I hold the M9/92FS in (and I both own one, and had to qualify with that POS in both the military and as a reserve sheriff) they did at least fix their springs.
 

Cackalak Han

Explorer
What kind of .357 are you buying? Full frame or concealed carry? If it is a smaller frame .357, consider a .38 +P or normal .38 with a high quality self-defense load. Even a light .357 load will be a pain to handle with the smaller frame revolvers, especially the ones with smaller grips. The .38 will do the job just fine.

***NO HAND LOADED ROUND FOR SELF DEFENSE...FACTORY ONLY***

Heed the advice others have given here as far as education, defense, and planning goes.

I have a GP100 with a 6" barrel on order. It's not for carrying. Just for multiple other uses - plinking, range, maybe hunting?, and home/camp security. I might eventually get a smaller .38sp later on.
 

Superu

Explorer
Glad to see this thread hasn't gone completely nuts.

As others have mentioned, perimeter lighting, well trimmed landscaping, solid and locked doors and windows all contribute mightily to making your home less attractive as a target.

Dogs, as well as being great companions, are often cited by experts as excellent deterrents regardless of size or disposition. (of course, one that will bark at someone trying to break in is probably a big plus!)

In addition to these things, simple things like having a cell phone in the bedroom, having cameras outside that will provide you with an instant view of activity. (4 cameras, a controller and a flat panel that will double as an extra TV in the bedroom can be had for short money.)

That may seem like overkill, but if you live somewhere that gives you reasonable cause to fear for your family's safety, then you should probably consider these "extras" in addition to your guns.

All that being said, the choice of handgun vs. shotgun is really going to come down to your personal choice after weighing the variables of what you are more comfortable with, likely target zones and the risk of unintended injury due to over penetration. There are plenty of excellent articles out there that will help you make the decision that is best for you based on key criteria.

Storage and accessibility has been amply covered by others and I would have to agree fully with those advocating use of a safe that provides easy access either via biometric readers or simple keypad.

Whichever weapon you choose, be sure to make time to practice with it as often as possible so its use is second nature to you. Different guns have different characteristics including safety location and the more you use the gun that you'll be choosing in a high stress situation, the better prepared you'll be should you ever need it.

And most importantly, congratulations on your upcoming new arrival! :wings:
 

Maximus Ram

Expedition Leader
Whew.. thought I was losing my mind. Glad to see it's back.



I have a GP100 with a 6" barrel on order. It's not for carrying. Just for multiple other uses - plinking, range, maybe hunting?, and home/camp security. I might eventually get a smaller .38sp later on.

Nice Ruger. My first handgun that I bought and still have. GP100 s/s w 4" barrel. Love that gun. It will shoot any .38 load out there for practice and still handle the .357's for more urgent matters.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I waffled on the home defence gun issue. I think the odds of ever needing it where I live are astronomically remote. And keeping a loaded gun in the house and accessible increases the odds myself or my family will get shot by that very same gun. Keeping a gun safely locked away so accidents cannot happen negates any benefit they would have when needed. It's a catch 22.

But those gun safes on the first page sure change things. Now what about the cost?
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
I waffled on the home defence gun issue. I think the odds of ever needing it where I live are astronomically remote. And keeping a loaded gun in the house and accessible increases the odds myself or my family will get shot by that very same gun. Keeping a gun safely locked away so accidents cannot happen negates any benefit they would have when needed. It's a catch 22.

But those gun safes on the first page sure change things. Now what about the cost?

My DAC brand safe was about $70.00 and holds 2 guns. I think the gunvaults vary in size and tend to hover around $100-150.00 here in San diego.
 

DarinM

Explorer
My brother just bought his a couple months ago when he got his gun. I believe he paid right around $100 USD for it. Since he has a 4 year old in the house, he felt the price was well worth it.

One thing that he and I talked about - it's not so much concern for my nephew being responsible and safe around the gun. We were brought up with guns in the house and knew all the rules, as my nephew is.
His concern as we talked about it was other kids being in the house as my nephew grows older and has sleepovers and stuff. You can always have a pretty good idea about your own kid - but maybe not so much about others'.

But those gun safes on the first page sure change things. Now what about the cost?
 

daniel ruops

Adventurer
justification for using lethal force

Many if not most state laws allow lethal force in defense of oneself or another if presented with immediate and unavoidable danger of great bodily harm or death. (It would be best not to shoot if the perpetrator only intends to steal your GPS, eat your lunch etc.) According to Massad Ayoob, for that situation to exist, ability, opportunity, and jeopardy must exist simultaneously.

Jeopardy means that any reasonable person would have concluded that the person (inbred, cretin, lowlife, dirtbag) shot had the intent to inflict fatal or great bodily harm.

Opportunity: when shot, the suspect was close enough to their intended victim to inflict great bodily harm, death or injury.

Ability: the person shot had the power to harm or kill. Generally, there was a disparity of force (male vs. female, able-bodied vs. disabled, strength in favor of the attacker etc.)
 

kjp1969

Explorer
A buddy of mine investigates burglaries for a local PD. He says he just doesn't get cases where the homeowner owns a barking dog. Doesn't happen. Of course this is far from scientific, but illustrates that most burglaries are crimes of opportunity. If they see a house with a dog, or security lighting, or other deterrents, they usually move to the next house. The vast majority of burglaries take place (at least around here) mid-morning when no one is home, and occur with a minimal amount of force- usually an unlocked door or window.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is getting to know your neighbors. My neighbors all look out for each other. My wife is constantly writing down license numbers of strange cars in the street.

Although I don't disapprove of guns in the least, they should be a small part of a discussion of home security, not a large one. They get used, by definition, when all else has failed. The more you do for prevention, the less likely that a gun will come into play. This is of special interest to the OP, or anyone with a family.
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
Many if not most state laws allow lethal force in defense of oneself or another if presented with immediate and unavoidable danger of great bodily harm or death. (It would be best not to shoot if the perpetrator only intends to steal your GPS, eat your lunch etc.) According to Massad Ayoob, for that situation to exist, ability, opportunity, and jeopardy must exist simultaneously.

Jeopardy means that any reasonable person would have concluded that the person (inbred, cretin, lowlife, dirtbag) shot had the intent to inflict fatal or great bodily harm.

Opportunity: when shot, the suspect was close enough to their intended victim to inflict great bodily harm, death or injury.

Ability: the person shot had the power to harm or kill. Generally, there was a disparity of force (male vs. female, able-bodied vs. disabled, strength in favor of the attacker etc.)

Here in Florida our laws are very lenient when it comes to self defense. If someone breaks into your house, you have the right to kill them before they show how big of threat they are.. the same goes for any attacker.
 

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