This job was a very tedious pain in the ***. The 16ga sheet metal I used is much heavier duty than the stock 22 ga sheet metal and not quite as easy to work with. However, I was able to manipulate it easily by welding the bottom to the 3/16 plate on the lower door jamb, then beating on it with an 8 lb sledge and tacking up the sides as it came into shape. I've seen where some people just spot weld and then fill it all in with seam sealer. I completely welded everything, then seam sealed anyway. The first side took me about a day and a half and the second side took half a day to complete.
Still need to trim the kick panels and get them reinstalled. Still need to trim the rear passenger wheel well and reinforce both of them. Still need to color match snaps to fill the holes in the fender when my paint shows up. Still need to paint the white underneath the fender, and still need to see if I can make the fender liner work. I rub the frame slightly at full lock (with 3.25" backspacing) and the washer reservoir at full compression and full lock. Than can easily be remedied with a heat gun.
Seam sealed and painted with a rubberized undercoating from Rustoleum -
On the passenger side you can see how far back I cut into the firewall -
Since they're pretty worn, the mounted MTRs are a full inch smaller than the brand new MTR I used for the tub(and now have mounted in the bed as my spare). I took 2.25" out of the majority of the front fender, and 1" out of the majority of the rear wheel well. It's slightly excessive, but with my backspacing I rubbed the lip of both the front and rear fenders. Plus, I just like how it looks. The truck has somewhere in the vicinity of 2" lift in the front and 1" in the rear.
The power loss is noticeable, but not terrible. I'm excited to regear. I'd like to sell the stack of 5 Duratracs with 5,000 miles on them before I fork out that cash, but I want to get it done the first week of July.
Here's full compression/full droop just for poops and giggles.