richard310
pew pew
I may do something similar since I've got a 10.5" as well. Nice setup on the pistol btw! Switch that safety on 
Here's my little flamethrower:
Here's my little flamethrower:
Stolenheron's 2013 Frontier CC PRO4X
- Thread starter stolenheron
- Start date
Dwill817
Toyota Fanatic!
Doesn't look like a pistol to me either
When I think pistol I think about what has recently prolonged any progress on my truck! My new 1911: 
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stolenheron
Explorer
The AR Pistol is a very very relative term. It basically means an AR with a less than 16" barrel, that is designed to be unable to fire from the shoulder. The thing that looks like a stock on my "pistol" is a SigTac SB15 Sigbrace, which is designed to strap to the wrist of the shooter for one handed shooting. It is ATF approved and comes with a letter... but man it is a super gray-area product lol.
and it is not single shot lol, acts like any other AR15 platform on the market, except it shoots a bigger fireball, is 100x louder than a rifle in the same caliber, and is a heck of alot of fun to shoot!
but if we wouldnt mind getting back on topic. if you want to talk guns, private message me and we can. I'd like to keep my build thread less cluttered lol
mortonm
Expedition Leader
very different from anything we see in Canada for the most part (mainly hunting rifles only).
Is that a stock bed storage compartment that you pulled out? or did it come from inside the cab?
stolenheron
Explorer
,
the rear seats in the crew cabs are 60/40 split (the driver side rear has a single seat to fold up, the passenger side rear has the double folding seat). that is a factory storage tray that sits under the double seat in the back, the driver side has a factory rockford fosgate subwoofer. I got that spare tan tray on trade with those spacers/struts, I didnt want to chop up my factory one in case it didnt work out how I wanted.
richard310
pew pew
Man, if only the X had storage under the rear seats I'd be making one just like that. A locked bag is the only way for now.
I can't picture the rear under-seat area on a 1st gen off the top of my head, but in the 2nd gen, that's where the factory jack and tools are stored ... in a handy blow-molded plastic tray with a carpet flap that covers it all up. Some folks, who feel they have lifted their trucks too much for the factory jack to be useful (or who have switched to carrying a bottle jack), take the factory jack out and use the area for storing other things ... a Hi-Lift will even fit between the seat hinges and the floor bulge, if you're inclined to store it inside rather than out on the rack.
richard310
pew pew
There is no storage under the rear seats. That's where the fuel tank resides. -_-Surprisingly there aren't many places for OEM hidden storage compartment in the first gen X.
Anyways, back to the OP's thread. Use Pelican's pluck-a-part foam or whatever they call it or something similar. A hell of a lot easier than getting a foam cutter and measuring a solid piece of foam.
stolenheron
Explorer
try not to ding my door in the parking lot, and don't get any of that toyota crap on my nissan haha
stolenheron
Explorer
dwill817 and I (thanks to his tools) managed to separate the spacers from the struts.
definitely not able to be machined like I had hoped, I am just going to sell these spacers and start saving up for a coilover set.
definitely not able to be machined like I had hoped, I am just going to sell these spacers and start saving up for a coilover set.
stolenheron
Explorer
Well hit 23,000 Miles today.
I also relocated the 7 pin harness to the rear bumper, cut off the original receiver mounting plate, ground down the welds, and resprayed it with some rustoleum bedliner to stop any rust. Used a 2 1/8" bimetal hole saw, don't use anything bigger or it will be too loose IMO. Be Careful when unhooking the harness too, I did break off 2 of the 3 clips in the harness plug, which I'm not happy about. It will hold up fine and won't pop out, but still ticked me off. Tape off the surface, it won't protect the bumper if you skip your bit around, but even the small metal shavings will scratch paint which the tape prevented. I used a dremel with some pricey (but actually pretty long lasting) cut off/grinding wheels. I didnt have a legit grinder or air tools handy, so I made it work, but probably burned up $20 in dremel cut off wheels.
I also replaced the cabin filters. I expected to see a filter coated in red dust from the national forest roads (like my air filter), but they were pretty clean for 23K miles.
Found a small creek (all of about 5" deep), took a poser shot. Made me a bit sad when the nostalgia and memories of doing windshield deep water crossings in my old Discovery.
I also relocated the 7 pin harness to the rear bumper, cut off the original receiver mounting plate, ground down the welds, and resprayed it with some rustoleum bedliner to stop any rust. Used a 2 1/8" bimetal hole saw, don't use anything bigger or it will be too loose IMO. Be Careful when unhooking the harness too, I did break off 2 of the 3 clips in the harness plug, which I'm not happy about. It will hold up fine and won't pop out, but still ticked me off. Tape off the surface, it won't protect the bumper if you skip your bit around, but even the small metal shavings will scratch paint which the tape prevented. I used a dremel with some pricey (but actually pretty long lasting) cut off/grinding wheels. I didnt have a legit grinder or air tools handy, so I made it work, but probably burned up $20 in dremel cut off wheels.
I also replaced the cabin filters. I expected to see a filter coated in red dust from the national forest roads (like my air filter), but they were pretty clean for 23K miles.
Found a small creek (all of about 5" deep), took a poser shot. Made me a bit sad when the nostalgia and memories of doing windshield deep water crossings in my old Discovery.
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