A few words on sliders...
HongerVenture said:
Fairly certain I'm going with bolt on. If I weld them on the frame I destroy the paint on the inside of the frame thus creating a rust-prone location. In my neck of the woods that is a problem, so I want to keep the paint as intact as possible.
That and if I want to remove them for any reason I can. I can't think of one, but you never know.
What do you think?
Having made the mistake welding my sliders on the first time, definitely go the bolt on route!
I've just spent well over 40 hrs cutting the existing sliders off the frame without damaging the frame then grinding the remaining metal off the frame then re-polishing to return the frame to before slider welding form. :ar15: Then I re-built them to be bolt on. I can snap some pics if you want.
I'm not sure what you had in mind, but I just re-built my sliders to be bolt on using ******** Foster's Slider
sketch on TTORA as a guide. Your T100 should have similar holes in the frame that you could use as tie in points. I made a few changes as follows:
1-I used 4" x 4" gussets where the slider legs weld to the U bracket.
2-I drilled a hole through the frame at the front cross member so that I could bolt from the inside of the frame similar to what Scott did
here.
In discussing slider builds on TTORA most guys felt that 3 legs from the frame to the slider was sufficient when using the U bracket design on a Tacoma. For the T100 you may want to go to 4 frame supports. The other important factor was choosing material size, most people suggested using at least a 1.75” OD tubing and min 0.120” thick. Finally make sure you have sufficient cross braces between the inner and outer slider tube. I used 5 not including the two end points in my case. See attached pic I used as a reference.
A few tips for you.
1-Build your U shapped brackets and bolt them to the truck. Then position your sliders where you want them and tack them in place. I would also partially weld them in position because when I finished welding mine when they were off the truck the heat from welding caused some alignment problems when I went to bolt them in place after they were complete.
2-For a good coating get them sand blasted and have them zinc chromate primered by the same facility if possible. This cost me $25 – 35 to have mine done. I then used some roll on bed liner. It has held up great with no need to re-paint in 3 years of extremely salty and rusty environment. See pic
here of what my OME coils look like after 21 months of service. If this coating can last 3 years in that same environment without rusting it’s excellent IMO!
Cheers :beer:,
P