A few words on sliders...
HongerVenture said:
Fairly certain I'm going with bolt on. If I weld them on the frame I destroy the paint on the inside of the frame thus creating a rust-prone location. In my neck of the woods that is a problem, so I want to keep the paint as intact as possible.
That and if I want to remove them for any reason I can. I can't think of one, but you never know.
What do you think?
Having made the mistake welding my sliders on the first time, definitely go the bolt on route!
![Oops! :oops: :oops:](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
I've just spent well over 40 hrs cutting the existing sliders off the frame without damaging the frame then grinding the remaining metal off the frame then re-polishing to return the frame to before slider welding form. :ar15: Then I re-built them to be bolt on. I can snap some pics if you want.
I'm not sure what you had in mind, but I just re-built my sliders to be bolt on using ******** Foster's Slider
sketch on TTORA as a guide. Your T100 should have similar holes in the frame that you could use as tie in points. I made a few changes as follows:
1-I used 4" x 4" gussets where the slider legs weld to the U bracket.
2-I drilled a hole through the frame at the front cross member so that I could bolt from the inside of the frame similar to what Scott did
here.
In discussing slider builds on TTORA most guys felt that 3 legs from the frame to the slider was sufficient when using the U bracket design on a Tacoma. For the T100 you may want to go to 4 frame supports. The other important factor was choosing material size, most people suggested using at least a 1.75” OD tubing and min 0.120” thick. Finally make sure you have sufficient cross braces between the inner and outer slider tube. I used 5 not including the two end points in my case. See attached pic I used as a reference.
A few tips for you.
1-Build your U shapped brackets and bolt them to the truck. Then position your sliders where you want them and tack them in place. I would also partially weld them in position because when I finished welding mine when they were off the truck the heat from welding caused some alignment problems when I went to bolt them in place after they were complete.
2-For a good coating get them sand blasted and have them zinc chromate primered by the same facility if possible. This cost me $25 – 35 to have mine done. I then used some roll on bed liner. It has held up great with no need to re-paint in 3 years of extremely salty and rusty environment. See pic
here of what my OME coils look like after 21 months of service. If this coating can last 3 years in that same environment without rusting it’s excellent IMO!
Cheers :beer:,
P