The Forgotten Continent Expedition

dhackney

Expedition Leader
To Tell the Truth

March 29, 2008

We were westbound on the Chile Chico road when we saw them.

We’d been through the rough stretch from town to the mine and the subsequent narrow, single lane portion that clings to the cliffs along the south side of Lago General Carrera with its stunning views.

The huge lake, deepest and second largest in the continent, is plopped down astride the Andes as if a challenge by God to the Chileans and the Argentines to share something amicably. I’m not sure how God would evaluate them on that score since, in typical Chilean – Argentine fashion, the lake has one name in Argentina, Lago Buenos Aires (literally, “good airs”), and another in Chile, the aforementioned Lago General Carrera.

Having grown up fishing on the commonly named lakes that straddle the United States and Canadian border, this seemed strange to me. It was as if Lake Superior was called Lake McKenzie north of the Canadian border or Lake Ontario was named Lake Jefferson south of the U.S. border. But, if nothing else, travel teaches us to work hard, every minute of every day, to view the world not as it is most comfortable for us and best fits our cultural norms, but as it is, where it is.

Consequently, I tried hard to envision a big red line across the lake’s shimmering waters as we crossed the border. The best I could come up with was a mental image of signs floating on large rafts saying Welcome to the Land of Good Pizza facing Chile and Welcome to the Land of Amazing Fruits and Vegetables facing Argentina. It had been a while since lunch so this may have influenced my perceptions.

Click here for the rest of the story: http://www.hackneys.com/travel/chile/totellthetruth.pdf
 

dhackney

Expedition Leader
Tough on Tires

April 3, 2008 – 1:45 am

Here’s a shot of one of our rear tires with a newly mounted spare behind it.

Total mileage is ~19,000 miles / 30,578 kilometers, with ~5,000 miles / 8,047 kilometers in South America.

Most of the wear is from the gravel roads we’ve been on down here.

2008-03-20-SD870%20IS-IMG_3214-600.jpg
 

Willman

Active member
Just spend the last hour going from picture to picture!!!

Very nice blog! Very detailed!!!

You guys rock!

Keep safe!

:)
 

Ursidae69

Traveller
dhackney said:
I added our maintenance/service/repair log to the route map page. You can click on the link at the top of the route page or scroll down for the log.


What a great dataset you've put together. I found this entry interesting:

The chassis is very road-crown sensitive. It will pull to the downhill side on either slope. Four wheel alignment has been done, with no improvement or change in this characteristic. 4/14/2008 note: This characteristic has greatly lessened and is hardly noticable now. Cause remains unknown.

I wonder why this problem has gone away??
 

dhackney

Expedition Leader
Ursidae69 said:
... road crown sensitive ...

I wonder why this problem has gone away??

I don't know if it has actually gone away or if I just mentally compensate for it now.

Seriously though, I do think it is less than it used to be. I'm not an engineer so I cannot even speculate as to why it has lessened to the point of me never even thinking about it anymore.
 

dhackney

Expedition Leader
The Operator

9 April 2008

If my foulies could talk, I’m sure they’d have expressed mixed feelings. Sure, they were grateful for finally breathing fresh air again after being packed away since sailing across the north Atlantic, but this was fresh water running off of them. “What is up with this?” I’m sure they’d ask if they could, “Where’s the salt water? Where’s the rolling swell? Where’s the ocean? Aren’t we supposed to be circumnavigating?”

I don’t know how I would have broken it to them, probably slowly and gently. I would have started with how good they looked, clean and bright and yellow tastefully accented with dark blue set off by strategically placed reflective markers shining as bright as the headlights stopped along the remote gravel road. They looked good, very good, even if trapped on terra firma instead of their native endless seas.

With my day-glow yellow hood in place and my headlight strapped across my forehead shining out beneath it, I created a confident and commanding presence as I walked through the driving rain down the line of vehicles towards the deafening roar that lie ahead. So commanding, in fact, driver after driver rolled down their window and asked me, in a variety of equally incomprehensible Spanish language ways, what the heck was going on and exactly how long would it be before my crew had the bridge cleared and the road open again.

In reply, I repeated, in a variety of ways equally incomprehensible to them, in grotesquely butchered Spanish, that I was not in charge, did not command the Chilean highway system, and had absolutely no idea when the bridge would re-open. Based on their horrified expressions I was probably actually speaking the Spanish words meaning a cow’s entrails would be spread across their car’s interior, but, I took it as my mission to distribute confidence and positive thoughts through the dozen cars and trucks impatiently idling in line.

After each brief conversation I smiled confidently, nodded, and moved on towards what once had been a bridge over a minor creek on Chile’s famed Carretera Austral, deep in the southern reaches of Chilean Patagonia. In my wake, car after car and truck after truck executed a three point turn and headed back through the black night, pounding rain, and washed out road punctuated with landslides the 160 kilometers (100 miles) back to the nearest town. I had no idea what could cause them to flee with such urgency.

Click here for the rest of the story: http://www.hackneys.com/travel/chile/theoperator.pdf
 

articulate

Expedition Leader
Wow, man, I've never been all that thrilled about eating sea urchins - but what the hell, I'm happy for you. :beer: Thanks for the story.
 

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