Raul
Adventurer
Rolled. Get twice as many roller as you think you may need. They wear quick and leave foam.
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The Rig Runner ...a 2010 E350 5.4 DIY Coil Conversion
- Thread starter Raul
- Start date
Rolled. Get twice as many roller as you think you may need. They wear quick and leave foam.
Raul
Adventurer
I was able to modify the legs of the seat so now is 3" lower. This will allow to touch the floor while seating and having a decent headroom when in bed configuration.
I got the transmission converted to 4x4. Right output shaft and flange for the transfer. After getting quotes in my neck of the Woods (Suburbia North of Houston) between $1,200 to $2,000 I contacted a guy out of Craigslist. I like him over the phone and even though the price was too good to be true, I decide to drive to his shop in the middle of Houston and give him a shot. He took the transmission a part in front of me, replace one set of clutches, the reverse band, change the output shaft and the flange. All while I was talking with him in a couple of hours. $300 for everything. :Wow1: I am not a fan of mechanics and this was the first I was feeling that I was underpaying for something. For those of you in the Houston area this was Kyle transmissions
I got the transmission converted to 4x4. Right output shaft and flange for the transfer. After getting quotes in my neck of the Woods (Suburbia North of Houston) between $1,200 to $2,000 I contacted a guy out of Craigslist. I like him over the phone and even though the price was too good to be true, I decide to drive to his shop in the middle of Houston and give him a shot. He took the transmission a part in front of me, replace one set of clutches, the reverse band, change the output shaft and the flange. All while I was talking with him in a couple of hours. $300 for everything. :Wow1: I am not a fan of mechanics and this was the first I was feeling that I was underpaying for something. For those of you in the Houston area this was Kyle transmissions
Raul
Adventurer
For those of you in the Houston area this was Kyle Transmissions (713-859-7159) (I hope this is not against forum rules)
The current status is:
Transmission and drive shafts out
Started working on roof insulation
Fixed leak through the passenger side large back window
Pending to replace the water pump as it leaks. Surprised how cheap they are. It seems easy to replace too.
I am expecting the shipment from U-joint to arrive on Thursday with the gas tank template, the MG kit and few other goodies. This bring some questions:
Is there a template to cut the engine crossmember to clear front driveshaft? I've seen pictures of the front of the crossmember. Do I need to cut the back too?
Do I paint the inside of the Gas tank after shortening it? If so, with what?
I have the front driveshaft from an old F350. Do they usually need to be modified? shortened? extended?
This weekend I was feeling the "builder exhaustion" as everything seems to drag for longer than expected. I expect, once I get the parts on Thursday, to be able to do some spectacular progress.
The current status is:
Transmission and drive shafts out
Started working on roof insulation
Fixed leak through the passenger side large back window
Pending to replace the water pump as it leaks. Surprised how cheap they are. It seems easy to replace too.
I am expecting the shipment from U-joint to arrive on Thursday with the gas tank template, the MG kit and few other goodies. This bring some questions:
Is there a template to cut the engine crossmember to clear front driveshaft? I've seen pictures of the front of the crossmember. Do I need to cut the back too?
Do I paint the inside of the Gas tank after shortening it? If so, with what?
I have the front driveshaft from an old F350. Do they usually need to be modified? shortened? extended?
This weekend I was feeling the "builder exhaustion" as everything seems to drag for longer than expected. I expect, once I get the parts on Thursday, to be able to do some spectacular progress.
Backcountry Pursuit
Risk Taker
I have a bit of advice on the cross member part. Mark the holes for the track bar mount where it bolts on the cross member before taking the plasma cutter to it. I left enough meat, but only just. When I did the first MG kit, I suggested he make a template that could be mailed along with the kit. That way differences in printers aren't an issue to print something out. I'm not sure if he ever did that or if Chris will include something like that. Send me a pm if you need a photo. Only cut the front vertical flange of the member. Back gets left alone. I took a flapper wheel and totasted the big rivet heads off to remove the original ifs brackets.
Front driveshaft needs to be modded. Can't remember if longer or shorter since mine was built from scratch. Just plan on doing some work to it.
Front driveshaft needs to be modded. Can't remember if longer or shorter since mine was built from scratch. Just plan on doing some work to it.
TexomaPowerboater
Adventurer
I really like that canopy. Who makes it?
Raul
Adventurer
thanks for the info. sending PM
Raul
Adventurer
Raul
Adventurer
HELP
I need HELP
I got the MG coil spring from U-Joint and I am installing it right now. Removing the old parts was straightforward and the new brackets should go without much issue BUT... before I place the axle under the van, i'll like to know if I need to cut the crossmember more than what I've done so far. I can only find pictures of people doing the conversion from vans that were already 4X4 and the cross members were cut to fit those previous conversions.
I think I may need to cut the bottom corner of the driver side. Once I place the axle i may know, but it is quite heavy to be placing it back and forth.
Thanks
I need HELP
I got the MG coil spring from U-Joint and I am installing it right now. Removing the old parts was straightforward and the new brackets should go without much issue BUT... before I place the axle under the van, i'll like to know if I need to cut the crossmember more than what I've done so far. I can only find pictures of people doing the conversion from vans that were already 4X4 and the cross members were cut to fit those previous conversions.
I think I may need to cut the bottom corner of the driver side. Once I place the axle i may know, but it is quite heavy to be placing it back and forth.
- Could somebody share a picture of a cut cross member?
- The oil/water heat exchanger lines lines most likely will interfere with the drive shaft. Any advice on re-routing them?
Thanks
Jsweezy
Explorer
Here is how I cut them. Put the track bar mount on for a test fit. Draw a line along the bottom edge of the bracket on the crossmember and that's where you need to cut there. Then I just loosen the brake line and push it up as far as I can without bending it or distorting it more than I need to. Once you see how far up you can push it up I just draw a line straight across at that point so the brake line is protected by the crossmember. I can send you pictures (I think) if you want to pm me your email address.
Just looked at the photo again more closely and saw you already did the track bar bracket cut so sorry for the extra info. You will also need to remove the bracket that was for the ibeam that's in there too. I just cut the rivet head in 4ths and then went at it with a chisel. Then just hammer it off.
As far as the oil/water lines, I just zip tied mine out of the way. It won't interfere as much as you think it might. I'd just wait till you got the driveshaft in and check it out.
Just looked at the photo again more closely and saw you already did the track bar bracket cut so sorry for the extra info. You will also need to remove the bracket that was for the ibeam that's in there too. I just cut the rivet head in 4ths and then went at it with a chisel. Then just hammer it off.
As far as the oil/water lines, I just zip tied mine out of the way. It won't interfere as much as you think it might. I'd just wait till you got the driveshaft in and check it out.
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Ranchero
Wanderer
Raul - my van is rented out until Wednesday. I can send you a picture then. MG sent me a pdf template that I printed out and taped up to mark the crossmember. You might ask him directly. Seems like another inch or so, especially on the driver's side. I would take as much out of the driver's side as you can, including trimming the lower portion of MG's PS mount to maximize clearance with the pumpkin. Seems like it was all of that lip and then an inch or so up the vertical part of the crossmember.
Backcountry Pursuit
Risk Taker
My phone number is in a pm for you. I can shoot you photos anytime.
Jsweezy
Explorer
Just my opinion, I wouldn't trim MGs bracket. That bracket along with the track bar is the only thing holding your axle in place. If for whatever reason it breaks, you won't be going anywhere and hopefully your not going very fast if it does.
When MG and I were playing around one day we removed the springs, shocks and bump stops and sat the van down as far as it would go. Your bump stops will stop your axle from going too far up so you can trim all you want but those bump stops will eventually keep it from going any further. I would just use the template if you can get your hands on it.
When MG and I were playing around one day we removed the springs, shocks and bump stops and sat the van down as far as it would go. Your bump stops will stop your axle from going too far up so you can trim all you want but those bump stops will eventually keep it from going any further. I would just use the template if you can get your hands on it.