The Rig Runner ...a 2010 E350 5.4 DIY Coil Conversion

[Raul]

I will not want this to become a discussion on wobbles. I am sure I'll be able to sort it out once I fix the transmission and can actually drive the thing. It will be at least a couple of weeks until I work on the Rig Runner.

Right now I am in your neck of the woods, Steve. We hiked to the Alpine Tunnel today. So many trails we could have explored while here.

 

[another_mike]

and good pictures of the crossmember after it was cut? Going to do mine in a few weeks, have yet to find a really detailed photo

 

[86scotty]

I'm in the middle of an MG conversion myself. My suspicion on the tranny is that your output shaft is not the right one, and that the speed sensor gear (reluctor wheel) is the culprit. These vans mysteriously read speed from 2 places, rear axle and rear of tranny housing, and Ford used a lot of different output shafts (my tranny guy had to narrow down from 4 or more) for some reason. Do you know EXACTLY which output shaft he used? Also, was the speed sensor connection at the rear axle straightforward?

If any of this needs clarification just ask. I'm doing all this for the first time too. Also, my van is a 98 when Ford was in the process of changing over to the 4r100 and the trannys are a bit of a mystery. In other words, I had trouble similar to Tyson (Backcountry Persuit) but was able to solve mine mechanically by modifying the reluctor wheel that the transmission speed sensor reads. It's supposed to work but not on the road yet. He used some GPS speed reader device which baffles me.

 

[Raul]

The output shaft matches the transfer case as far as length and splines. I didn't think about what's inside the transmission. My transmission -4r75e- has two speed sensors. If the output sensor reads from some feature on the output shaft (splines, notches or something) that my shaft doesn't have, that could be the problem.
My van doesn't have any sensors on the rear axle other than the ABS ones on the rotors.

You made a very good point. I'll be sure to be on top of the transmission guy when he takes it apart.

 

[86scotty]

The output shaft matches the transfer case as far as length and splines. I didn't think about what's inside the transmission. My transmission -4r75e- has two speed sensors. If the output sensor reads from some feature on the output shaft (splines, notches or something) that my shaft doesn't have, that could be the problem.
My van doesn't have any sensors on the rear axle other than the ABS ones on the rotors.

You made a very good point. I'll be sure to be on top of the transmission guy when he takes it apart.

If this is, in fact, your problem, I think it can be remedied without removing the tranny. I heard John from Agile offroad tell me that they have remove some teeth from that reluctor wheel with the trans mounted, just removed the transfer case and could see up the shaft enough to knock off some teeth (and VERY carefully recover them). I'm not sure this is your problem though. It's just a guess. I would definitely ask your tranny guy if your sensors and everything in there looked right to him. If he's done a few of these trannys he should know.

Good luck and let us know what you figure out!

 

[Raul]

Believe me, if you read my hot dog thread I feel your pain. DIY is cheaper but not emotionally...

Ain't that the truth.

On Monday it will be towed to the transmission shop. Last week I took the trans back to the shop and they did a complete rebuild. New everything including torque converter. I assemble it back paying special attention to all the detail: TQ was installed at the shop and was clamped with a bracket until the last minute, TQ was able to rock a little bit after the bell housing was torqued up, fill up 6 qt of ATF, start while pouring the rest,... no codes, lifted rear wheel and shift, Ok.

Put the wheels on the ground, shift to D to remove wheel chocks, gas and inches forward, but doesn't feel right. In park it will hold the van, but in D, with no gas, the van will slide backwards - driveway has a little bit of slope.

I am out of explanation. The first time I was able to accept that I may have not placed the TQ all the way in. This second time I've been checking and double checking everything. This is an electronically controlled transmission, but before I took it out to convert to 4x4 it was working fine.

 

[VOODOO7.3]

Great Progress!

Hello, from College Station, TX! Following along on your build. Nice job! Just messaged you.

 

[ujoint]

Ain't that the truth.

On Monday it will be towed to the transmission shop. Last week I took the trans back to the shop and they did a complete rebuild. New everything including torque converter. I assemble it back paying special attention to all the detail: TQ was installed at the shop and was clamped with a bracket until the last minute, TQ was able to rock a little bit after the bell housing was torqued up, fill up 6 qt of ATF, start while pouring the rest,... no codes, lifted rear wheel and shift, Ok.

Put the wheels on the ground, shift to D to remove wheel chocks, gas and inches forward, but doesn't feel right. In park it will hold the van, but in D, with no gas, the van will slide backwards - driveway has a little bit of slope.

I am out of explanation. The first time I was able to accept that I may have not placed the TQ all the way in. This second time I've been checking and double checking everything. This is an electronically controlled transmission, but before I took it out to convert to 4x4 it was working fine.

How much fluid is in it when you try to drive? Have they replaced the solenoid pack with each re do?

 

[Raul]

How much fluid is in it when you try to drive? Have they replaced the solenoid pack with each re do?

Time to update. Sorry for the late reply, but I've been out for three weeks with not much internet access.

The fluid was the answer. I was afraid to overfill it and when checking the level I didn't give enough time for the tube to dry and the dipstick seemed to be on the full mark. :squint:
Once the fluid level was fine, it run well. The exhaust was cut and very loud
With the transmission fixed, the exhaust was re-routed and the first time i started I noticed a clunking noise. (????). Besides that, it moves nice and seemed stable on the highway

I went to the spot I felt the wobble and it did it again. I check all the bolts and brackets and shortened a little bit the track bar and adjusted the drag link and the tie rod. I went back to the "test track" and it didn't wobble. It feel quite planted and even driving above 80 mph seems quite stable. I was afraid it will feel clumsy in the highway but it doesn't. Things should improve with the proper alignment. I may fit a steering stabilizer just because, but i want to make sure it works fine without.

Back to the clunking noise, I believe the pressure plate is cracked. I should have changed when I removed the transmission, now I'll have to remove it for the third time. I checked with a cheap HF stethoscope and the noise doesn't seem to come from the engine or the transmission. Since the Torque Converter is new, I am guessing is the pressure plate. I have a new one coming Friday.

I am looking forward to be done with the mechanical part and start the "interior decoration". I also added side steps so my wife can climb on board and i do need to do stretching before I do.

 

[Raul]

Still working on this thing.

Harvey kept us busy. Luckily my house was fine, but I enjoyed the extra clearance I got to pass high water. After the storm we were using those not so lucky.




The third brake light was broken so I got one from the local salvage yard. When trying to remove mine, the screw were frozen and the threaded insert was spinning freely. I had to break the light and clamping with vise grips remove the screw and drill the threat insert.



Replace the insert with a RivNut. First time using them and I think I am going to love them. I plan to use them to fix the cabinets and the headliner.



As far as the drive train. I was not pleased with the stance as the rear was lower than the front so I installed a 2.5" lifting block. Since I installed new rear springs, I should have got a custom set from Chris. I was not expecting that much lift at the front. I was hoping lifting the rear will address my shaking issues, but they are still there. I'll review all the bolts, ball joints and the caster adjuster before I take it for an alignment.

I'll love if you guys with the MG kit will provide me the following information

• Track bar length. Center to center or end to end
• Drag link length
• Tie Rod length

 

[Jsweezy]

Is the track bar ball joint in good condition? Did you torque the upper track bar bolt to 406 ft lbs? Are the steering box/track bar bracket bolts torqued to 122 ft lbs? And lastly how are the hubs, I had issues with mine that werent easy to tell so I just got new ones and as soon as I replaced both of them my issues were gone.

 

[Raul]

Thank you Josh,
The hubs are new. The track bar is a new adjustable one from Chris. I'll review the torques. I torque them up as much as I could with a break bar. Now that you gave me the values I'll borrow a BA wrench to check.

 

[Jsweezy]

No problem, that upper track bar bolt takes a beast of a wrench to tighten but its imperative. If I were you I would just take it for an alignment as soon as you have everything torqued and let them deal with all of the minute adjustments.

Did you not receive a set of torque specs when you got the kit?

All of the radius arm bolts should be torqued to 222 ft lbs while your at it.

 

[Raul]

Did you not receive a set of torque specs when you got the kit?

No, I didn't received any kind of information. I know that U-joint is quite good helping customers, but I guess I was the one that fell between the cracks as I didn't get any torque specs or the template or directions to cut the cross member.

 

[another_mike]

No, I didn't received any kind of information. I know that U-joint is quite good helping customers, but I guess I was the one that fell between the cracks as I didn't get any torque specs or the template or directions to cut the cross member.

I got nothing with my kit either. Looked up all the specs from a 2005 F250....