The Rig Runner ...a 2010 E350 5.4 DIY Coil Conversion

[Raul]

Moving along. Axle is installed.


New issue: the lug studs are M14-2. Everywhere I check, the lugs are supposed to be M14-1.5. The nuts I have are M14-1.5. Of course, the first nut I tried, I messed up the thread on the stud. Changing it will imply removing the whole hub. I'll try to fix the threads with the proper die and get a new set of lug nuts for the front. I'll have different nuts for the front than the rear . Not a big deal, but just had the rear spacer made.

My axle is from a 2008. Was it supposed to be M14-2?

Next thing is the ABS sensors. They are different, hopefully they are interchangeable. The connectors are the same, but they are swapped: the van has the female on the frame and the male on the sensor, the truck has the female on the sensor. Luckily, the salvage yard just cut the cables so I have the connector to do a crossover.

 

[Raul]

Mystery solved. I got an axle from a dually. The studs are shorter and the thread is coarse. I guess replacing the front bearing assembly is on order.

Once I get at it. Anything else to take care of? I'll do the dust covers as well.

 

[Jsweezy]

Oh totally makes sense, I was trying to figure out what was going on. Sorry I wasn't able to locate those photos yet. Doesn't look like it matters anyway.

 

[Raul]

Do not worry Jsweezy, Taylor (Backcountry Pursuit) was able to text me some pictures and gave me some advice. Thank you Taylor!! this is a great forum.

I checked my front bearings and they seem to be OK (just shaking by hand the wheel). Replacing the studs will cost me about $100 and some pain. I can get two hub assemblies for around $250. Does anybody has experience with this off brand replacements?

Amazon No-Name Hubs

Or I can get two Timken for $450

Amazon Timken

Thoughts?

 

[Jsweezy]

I had vibration issues with my last van and the only thing I didn't swap was the hubs. As soon as I swapped them out all of my problems went away and it felt super solid. If I were you I would just go for the two for 450 and feel good knowing that's done. Especially since this axle came from a yard.

Glad you got the photos and some advice!

Edit - and I went through all of the standard checks for hub issues and it all checked out fine. Even the axle place that did my track bar ball joint said my hubs were fine when they obviously weren't after I spent the money and installed them.

 

[Raul]

Gas tank is cut. I used Ujoint template but cut a few inches less. after that I test fitted and give me plenty of room. I guess the template is intended to cover worst case scenario, with bigger engines and transmissions.


The volume of the nose I cut is a little bit more than 3 gallons. In real life i guess I may have lost 2.5 gal.

Transfer case is installed, gas tank cut and Tuesday i am getting new Timken front hubs. In ten days I must hit the road and the deadline is getting close (my life starts to look like a Discovery channel car build up show).

With the transfer in place I was able to measure the driveshafts:

Front: 37" Flange to mid Ujoint.
Rear: 59" flange to flange

To those of you that did this in the past: Did you find a perfect fit on a salvage yard? did you modify something from another truck? Did you get custom shafts?

 

[Backcountry Pursuit]

I got totally custom brand new all Spicer parts drivelines. They weren't cheap, but lifetime guarantee from the local shop. Tyson

 

[Raul]

I've been busting my tail for the last two weeks to have everything ready for our trip to Colorado. New Drive Shaft, New Timken Hubs (those snap rings are really a struggle!). ABS working, transmission cross member, only missing re-routing the exhaust so I am running on side open pipe after the cat.

So, father's day present: a running van....WRONG!

The transmission seems to be acting up. it revs up, but the van barely moves as in a manual transmission with a worn clutch. I am afraid my transmission guy may have messed up something. I've revised all connections and everything seems fine. All my vehicles before the vans have been standard so I am a little bit at lost.

To add drama. On only three miles I've driven testing I have already experienced the Death Wobble. The reason I went with the MG kit and not doing my own brackets was to use a tested solution. Having the van shaking like that at only 40 mph was scary and disappointing.



First fill out: 32 Gal

 

[mgmetalworks]

A correctly set up van will not have the death wobble. I'll pm you my number and you can call me Monday.

 

[Raul]

Thank you MG. I got your message. I am guessing I need to adjust the track bar to the proper length. UnI'll give you a call tomorrow afternoon.

Figuring out the transmission issue is what really got me frustrated. I am trying to figured out if I missed something when installing. This is a one man show and I am really worn out.

 

[Jsweezy]

Sorry to hear about your wobbling issues but with MGs kit there shouldnt be any wobbling unless something is worn and needs to be replaced. I went through everything when my van was giving me issues ans it turned out to be the hubs, even though the "grab it and see if it moves" test passed. I guess thats what happens when you buy an axle of a wrecked truck, somethings just need to be replaced.

 

[Raul]

The hubs are new. I think it is a matter of the length of the track bar and the steering linkage to the pit arm. I actually open it up to compensate for the van frame being wider, but no measurement has been done. I've only driven around my. Block once so I can not make and judgements on the kit itself. It is just that the wobble appeared as my transmission is not working, after all the effort putting this thing together....

 

[Jsweezy]

Believe me, if you read my hot dog thread I feel your pain. DIY is cheaper but not emotionally...

I'd just give it some time to work everything out and yes definitely take it for an alignment.

 

[Ranchero]

Mine is approaching 9k miles since swap. No wobble.

 

[Hyperdrive]

5K on mine and no wobble. Drives dreamy.