CaptainBuilt
Well-known member
Yea, it has to be a Ranch Hand bumper. They're everywhere in Texas and Louisiana. But you already know that. That's cool that someone took it off a truck and made it fit.
The Rig Runner ...a 2010 E350 5.4 DIY Coil Conversion
- Thread starter Raul
- Start date
Yea, it has to be a Ranch Hand bumper. They're everywhere in Texas and Louisiana. But you already know that. That's cool that someone took it off a truck and made it fit.
Raul
Adventurer
Drive Shaft.
After breaking the driveshaft CV and having to return home on FWD, I noticed how much quieter the van was. I rebuild the CV and used the same shaftand, I guess, I got used to the vibration. Fast Forward to this Christmas trip. We drive 900 miles overnight and while my wife drives, I sleep lying on the third bench. Vibrations were terrible on the back.
I did some research and found that the 99-2002 F350 7.3l Diesel Driveshaft may work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNHN5R...olid=3A3ERR0K2N2Q2&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it.
The differential Flange I used is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAPJTRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am happy to report that this combination works for my 5.4l with 271 transfer and DANA 60 semifloat differential. The reduction in vibration is dramatically noticeable. No more drown between 65 and 85 mph. So far very pleased.
After breaking the driveshaft CV and having to return home on FWD, I noticed how much quieter the van was. I rebuild the CV and used the same shaftand, I guess, I got used to the vibration. Fast Forward to this Christmas trip. We drive 900 miles overnight and while my wife drives, I sleep lying on the third bench. Vibrations were terrible on the back.
I did some research and found that the 99-2002 F350 7.3l Diesel Driveshaft may work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNHN5R...olid=3A3ERR0K2N2Q2&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it.
The differential Flange I used is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAPJTRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am happy to report that this combination works for my 5.4l with 271 transfer and DANA 60 semifloat differential. The reduction in vibration is dramatically noticeable. No more drown between 65 and 85 mph. So far very pleased.
Raul
Adventurer
Not a big project, but after hitting a tree with the passenger mirror on a narrow creek, I tried to fix it before replacing (there will be more narrow trails). I used a piece of left over plastic from the Tahoe seats and ABS cement.
I just need to paint it.
Next project is to replace the steering box. Since it is hard to reach with the 4x4 axle, I have a coolant leak and I need to recharge the AC and replace the expansion valve, I am thinking about replace all radiators and coolers, coolant hoses, heater core, evaporator and condenser and the vacuum reservoir and valve that are leaking to. I hope it should be fairly straight forward since I am disconnecting everything at once.
I just need to paint it.
Next project is to replace the steering box. Since it is hard to reach with the 4x4 axle, I have a coolant leak and I need to recharge the AC and replace the expansion valve, I am thinking about replace all radiators and coolers, coolant hoses, heater core, evaporator and condenser and the vacuum reservoir and valve that are leaking to. I hope it should be fairly straight forward since I am disconnecting everything at once.
Impressive! That's quite the patch job. If you need another mirror, hit me up. I have a nice one that will need a home when I install my towing mirrors. I was going to wait till I'm ready to Monstaline the van…but would be happy to do it sooner since you've helped me out with Monstaliner questions.
Raul
Adventurer
Major project. My steering box was leaking so I need to change it. With the track bar, front axle etc. it was not looking too easy. Since I want to replace some cooling hoses, and re-evacuate and fill the AC after the questionable job done by professionals last summer, I decided to go big. Removing all the radiators gives me an extraordinary amount of room to work.
To do list.
This sticker is on the driver side bank of the engine. the van is 2010, does it mean Year 10, day 31 month 12 (Original engine) or the year is 12 (replaced engine)?
To do list.
- Replace steering box.
- Convert current transmission cooler to Steering fluid cooler
- Get a larger transmission cooler. Considering this cooler
- Check the A/C evaporator and it is quite clean. Hosed and ready to go.
- Cleaned the radiator back flushing it with a garden hose. Lots of mud came out, but it is good shape.
- A/C Condenser is a little beat up so I'll replace it with with this one.
- Replace upper and lower radiator hoses.
- Run the vacuum line trough the dog house. I was hopping to have access to the vacuum tank, but it is still hiding.
- Fix the broken taps on the headlights.
This sticker is on the driver side bank of the engine. the van is 2010, does it mean Year 10, day 31 month 12 (Original engine) or the year is 12 (replaced engine)?
Last edited:
Raul
Adventurer
Ready to start putting things back together. Hydroboost should fit with no problem, but when you get a re-build unit, you are supposed to use the pushrod and springs form your old hydroboost 
. Found a place on ebay, hopefully it will work.
Most likely I'll need at least one custom made hose.
. Found a place on ebay, hopefully it will work.Most likely I'll need at least one custom made hose.
Raul
Adventurer
Moving slowly. The Hydraboost upgrade is turning a little bit more complex. I can not use the master cylinder so I need to buy a new one that has a an extra port so now I need to plug it. Also Hydraboost do not come with the pushrod and springs so I need to get them on ebay... and wait for delivery...
Possitive little project I took the cover of the evaporator which is on top of the passenger valve cover. Cold air hits that cover and is diverted inward. I think a little insulation and mostly radiant barrier may help. Also put some PeelAndSeal on the firewall as the brake booster is out.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to find the brake port plug and cut to size a new push rod since I cut the one from ebay for the old master cylinder before I realized it didn't fit the hydraboost.
Possitive little project I took the cover of the evaporator which is on top of the passenger valve cover. Cold air hits that cover and is diverted inward. I think a little insulation and mostly radiant barrier may help. Also put some PeelAndSeal on the firewall as the brake booster is out.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to find the brake port plug and cut to size a new push rod since I cut the one from ebay for the old master cylinder before I realized it didn't fit the hydraboost.
Attachments
Raul
Adventurer
The hydroboost is becoming more headache than I expected. The connectors are becoming hard to find and when finally I've identified the right connector for the HB return, Amazon is taking almost three weeks to deliver it. Hopefully the brake upgrade will be worth it.
In the mean time the steering box and transmission cooler are installed, The old trans cooler is the steering cooler and I've replaced the radiator hoses. The new cooler (red) is significantly larger. The final position is few inches higher that this picture.
I am also reinforcing the frame bumper flanges. With the heavy bumper, over the years it has developed cracks. Now with the winch it is more critical. I am using one of the old 2WD front suspension brackets.
This is the passenger inward. I am considering using just a flat flange on the outward side. Even with just this, it should be a substantial reinforcement.
I've also moved the track bar bracket reinforcement backwards to allow the front hitch. Luckily the adjustment was good fro the shorter distance.
Tomorrow if the rain holds, I'll replace the front springs CC880 with CC860S. If they are too tall and soft, then I'll install the CC880S from when I originally did conversion. A reverse shackle kit is coming in a couple of weeks.
In the mean time the steering box and transmission cooler are installed, The old trans cooler is the steering cooler and I've replaced the radiator hoses. The new cooler (red) is significantly larger. The final position is few inches higher that this picture.
I am also reinforcing the frame bumper flanges. With the heavy bumper, over the years it has developed cracks. Now with the winch it is more critical. I am using one of the old 2WD front suspension brackets.
This is the passenger inward. I am considering using just a flat flange on the outward side. Even with just this, it should be a substantial reinforcement.
I've also moved the track bar bracket reinforcement backwards to allow the front hitch. Luckily the adjustment was good fro the shorter distance.
Tomorrow if the rain holds, I'll replace the front springs CC880 with CC860S. If they are too tall and soft, then I'll install the CC880S from when I originally did conversion. A reverse shackle kit is coming in a couple of weeks.
Raul
Adventurer
New Springs are in (cc860S) new height is 23.5" at the front fender corner vs 21" with the CC880. Note how the suspension arm is less than horizontal on the before pic.
After. Note how the suspension arm is pass the horizontal. This is with the springs just installed. Once I finish all the other stuff and drive it a bit I'll measure again. After few month it should set even further. I can not wait to have it back on the road. The reverse shackles for the rear should level it.
And this is the final view of the trans cooler. I had to chop a portion of the bracket to fit it.
After. Note how the suspension arm is pass the horizontal. This is with the springs just installed. Once I finish all the other stuff and drive it a bit I'll measure again. After few month it should set even further. I can not wait to have it back on the road. The reverse shackles for the rear should level it.
And this is the final view of the trans cooler. I had to chop a portion of the bracket to fit it.
Raul
Adventurer
BACK ON THE ROAD
It has been a lot of work. Specially the little thing like the hose reductions from 3/8" to 1/2" that are not tight enough and specially the weird connections for the hydroboost. Still fine tuning the length of push rod. I am not sure if it was worth all the effort. Time will tell.
New cc860S springs replace the cc880. The old ones were too short and the axle was hitting the engine crossmember. Now sit a little bit too tall but I do not have to worry about slowing down at the rail road crossing.
Shackle flip provided a net 4" lift. That is 1.5" more than the block it replaces. I think I like it. It increased the pinion angle, but I compensated somehow lifting the transfer support.
Front Hitch. Fits perfect under the bumper with the winch. With the reinforcements on frame bumper flanges the bumper feel sturdier and If I ever have to double up the winch I can tie to the hitch instead of doing it back to the bumper.
Horn this little fellow makes a lot of noise. I love it.
Hydroboost: Jury is out. It seems that I need less force to brake, but I am still fie tuning the rod to make sure I am not dragging the brakes. If I were to do it again I'll try to get the whole assembly from an E450 or E350 already equipped. The fact that my caliper locked up didn't help with the troubleshooting. Those calipers were less than two years, 20k miles. How often do you replace calipers? the pad are lasting me longer.
This fellow decided to pop up once everything was done. As I was turning left and right with the front wheels in the air to bleed the power steering system, I was hearing the steering wheel clock spring making some noises. DOES ANYONE HAS ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THE CLOCK SPRING TRIGGERING AIRBAG WARNING?
All and all I am glad I am back on the road.
It has been a lot of work. Specially the little thing like the hose reductions from 3/8" to 1/2" that are not tight enough and specially the weird connections for the hydroboost. Still fine tuning the length of push rod. I am not sure if it was worth all the effort. Time will tell.
New cc860S springs replace the cc880. The old ones were too short and the axle was hitting the engine crossmember. Now sit a little bit too tall but I do not have to worry about slowing down at the rail road crossing.
Shackle flip provided a net 4" lift. That is 1.5" more than the block it replaces. I think I like it. It increased the pinion angle, but I compensated somehow lifting the transfer support.
Front Hitch. Fits perfect under the bumper with the winch. With the reinforcements on frame bumper flanges the bumper feel sturdier and If I ever have to double up the winch I can tie to the hitch instead of doing it back to the bumper.
Horn this little fellow makes a lot of noise. I love it.
Hydroboost: Jury is out. It seems that I need less force to brake, but I am still fie tuning the rod to make sure I am not dragging the brakes. If I were to do it again I'll try to get the whole assembly from an E450 or E350 already equipped. The fact that my caliper locked up didn't help with the troubleshooting. Those calipers were less than two years, 20k miles. How often do you replace calipers? the pad are lasting me longer.
This fellow decided to pop up once everything was done. As I was turning left and right with the front wheels in the air to bleed the power steering system, I was hearing the steering wheel clock spring making some noises. DOES ANYONE HAS ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THE CLOCK SPRING TRIGGERING AIRBAG WARNING?
All and all I am glad I am back on the road.
Last edited:
mgmetalworks
Explorer
Pull the code with Forscan. It is not uncommon for the clockspring to fail. One bad connection will throw a code and turn that light on.
Raul
Adventurer
Driver airbag code so I decided to go driverless. Look Ma, no Steering wheel!
Since I also had a very loose shifter. I decided to get the whole steering column. $75 for the whole thing from a 2012. No airbag. All my detents were quite worn out.
The change was worth it as far as the van goes. No more airbag malfunction. I haven't been able to test drive it since I ended up with a back spasm that is keeping me out of commission for two days so far. Doctor prescribed muscle relaxant. It is not hard to replace, but you have to do some contortionism that exceeded my flexibility I guess.
Raul
Adventurer
Pinion angle was still off. I could not feel vibrations but the angle was 5 degrees too high.
[
I got 6 degrees shims and thick plate to correct the angle and get about 1/2” lift
The angle seems OK now
It seems to run smoother (it should). The rear seems still slightly lower, but the new front springs should settle. I do not want a exaggerated stance and a taller rear also may mess up the front caster. So far I still use un-modified radius arms.
[
I got 6 degrees shims and thick plate to correct the angle and get about 1/2” lift
The angle seems OK now
It seems to run smoother (it should). The rear seems still slightly lower, but the new front springs should settle. I do not want a exaggerated stance and a taller rear also may mess up the front caster. So far I still use un-modified radius arms.
Last edited:
Similar threads
