The Rolling Restoration & Customization Of My 88' Range Rover Classic
- Thread starter rrclassicbt550
- Start date
rrclassicbt550
Farmer Jon
L
long dong silver
Guest
I hope you have better luck with them than I did. I suggest RTE, though I think ECR has a heat and rebend on a jig option
rrclassicbt550
Farmer Jon
I hope you have better luck with them than I did. I suggest RTE, though I think ECR has a heat and rebend on a jig option
Wow! Ok...I have got to ask for some backstory on this. The QT Services arms look like a pretty stout bit of kit, so how did this happen? Would the RTE's hold up in the same situation? Are they really that much stronger?
Seriously Jon,
Don't go overboard with that holders. Keep it simple.
Personally I would go for 3 o-rings on the floor or at the wall and a ratchet strap. Does a great job. basically the same like your jack and tool roll is fixed in the LR original set up. Just bigger.
Build a small leveling platform underneath like your mock up and you are good.
Anyhow, You might have to rework all again when you work out your drawers.
Don't go overboard with that holders. Keep it simple.
Personally I would go for 3 o-rings on the floor or at the wall and a ratchet strap. Does a great job. basically the same like your jack and tool roll is fixed in the LR original set up. Just bigger.
Build a small leveling platform underneath like your mock up and you are good.
Anyhow, You might have to rework all again when you work out your drawers.
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L
long dong silver
Guest
Not much of a back story. D1, 35s, ARBs. On a mild trail out at BMRA and the wheelbase changed and tires rubbed. I mis spoke though, these are terrafirma, not QT. Almost the same arm though.
the cross section on the QT and TF arms is a downgrade compared to stock. That is why they fail. If it is an all show no go vehicle they would be perfect.
FWIW, I was able to drive home with the bent arm.
rrclassicbt550
Farmer Jon
Berni,
I understand what your saying and I definitely do not want to go overboard with the mounting, but its going to have to be a pretty strong mount, because the case is going to weigh around 10lbs when its all assembled. The main thing, is that I really want to be able to lock it into place with a padlock to make it harder to remove if the vehicle is ever broken into. Like I said, its an expensive and hard to duplicate item that I would really hate to lose. Thank you again for another good idea though, I hadn't thought about mounting something using the original LR o-rings!
Thankfully I do have enough of the drawer made at this point to be able check all the clearances and make sure everything fits properly. That being said, since there has been a change to how the jerry can mounts, I am also going to have to change the way the original sleeping platform folds closed. That might prove to be a bit tricky, but I will cross that bridge when I get there.
rrclassicbt550
Farmer Jon
Hmm...it is going to see a wide variety of terrains throughout its life, which is most assuredly going to include mild trails, and more. So the fact the QT and TF arms can be bent like that on mild trails is troubling. I will definitely be checking into the RTE's. Thank you for your advice, I really appreciate it!
Snagger
Explorer
TerraFirma are not the same quality as QT. QT are used an awful lot over here by owners of heavily modified competition spec Defenders and comp-safari racers and have a very good reputation. Even so, a TF radius arm won't bend like that without you knowing you hit something damned hard.
rrclassicbt550
Farmer Jon
Braking issues....
So I am driving home and about three miles away I started to feel that something was not right. I was having to use WAY more throttle then I ever would normally have to use, just to do 40mph in a 50mph. As each miles goes by, my brake pedal gets harder and harder to push down. About a mile from home I start to notice the very distinct smell of brakes being overheated. I slow down and nurse it that last bit of the way home and immediately get out of the Rover to check the brakes, because by now my brake pedal is now just about rock solid. As I walk around the Rover, I start to notice the somewhat alarming amount of smoke coming off my brakes.
When I was driving it, it didn't seem to favor any particular side really, more of an overall slowing down. I am not really sure where to start looking for the problem...master cylinder maybe?
As it sits right now, the smoke is dying down, the brakes are cooling down, and the brake pedal is in the fully up position and ROCK HARD, it won't budge at all. I could really use some advice if anyone has any.
So I am driving home and about three miles away I started to feel that something was not right. I was having to use WAY more throttle then I ever would normally have to use, just to do 40mph in a 50mph. As each miles goes by, my brake pedal gets harder and harder to push down. About a mile from home I start to notice the very distinct smell of brakes being overheated. I slow down and nurse it that last bit of the way home and immediately get out of the Rover to check the brakes, because by now my brake pedal is now just about rock solid. As I walk around the Rover, I start to notice the somewhat alarming amount of smoke coming off my brakes.
When I was driving it, it didn't seem to favor any particular side really, more of an overall slowing down. I am not really sure where to start looking for the problem...master cylinder maybe?
As it sits right now, the smoke is dying down, the brakes are cooling down, and the brake pedal is in the fully up position and ROCK HARD, it won't budge at all. I could really use some advice if anyone has any.
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rrclassicbt550
Farmer Jon
I waited a couple hours to let the brakes cool down and then I checked pedal pressure again...everything seems to be working properly now. It drives like nothing happened. I am really not sure whats going on with it...boiled brake fluid maybe? Anyone got any advice?
I had this issue an an old elcamino - The issue was the master cylinder rod where it connects to the pedal was out of adjustment - the brake pedal never allowed the MC to return fully, so each time you applied the brakes only 95% of the fluid returned. Basically as you use the brakes, they are slowly being applied little by little. When you let it sit- the fluid was allowed to bleed back into the MC.
I hope that makes sense - but it took me FOREVER to figure it out.
I hope that makes sense - but it took me FOREVER to figure it out.
L
long dong silver
Guest
Yes, it will
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