The ultimate Aussie expedition camper

[graynomad]

post only took hours and not days to appear!

Yeah it's a bit freaky, hurry up and make some more posts, just do a +1 on a few random posts

They have 12 panels as well but I am designing a 24v system, or you can use an MPPT regulator.

I'll PM you about the lithium forum (it's secret men's business )

Be careful with making sacrifices... Some things will end up being far more important when access to them is limited!

Very good point, reducing the beer storage is not the way to go, I see the error of my ways.

 

[mrFelix]

Thanks Rob (lithium)

This mob manufactures the Innovan as well as there own range of slide-ons all made with composite panels , (exterior interior) they actually run a business which manufactures the panels. My point is though if you have a look at some of their models you might find something close to the one you are going to build and get a good idea of weights for various models. http://www.islandercampers.com/

Going back to your earlier post on the build you mentioned water but not how you intend to filter/sterilize it. One of the things I'm considering is UV sterilization, what do you think about this model (as an electrical guy, could I dispense with the ac/dc converter and hardwire it to 12v?) http://www.clarencewaterfilters.com.au/products/8-Lpm-14-watt-S%7B47%7DS-Ultraviolet-Water-Sterilizer.html

 

[alan]

This is the solar panel i have, this one is 200w as you can see they have stuck this one on to colorbond roof sheeting, i am looking at building a carport with this style at home, but i'm sure they would also supply the panel on it's own.

 

[graynomad]

Thanks for the pics, interesting approach. So they are a commercial product sold as roofing I gather.

Are they amorphous/poly/mono panels? Or if you don't know what is the physical size, that should tell one way or the other.

 

[alan]

they are poly, this sheet is 2.1m x 78cm, it's new product i found in Taiwan.

 

[graynomad]

Went back into town today to further research some toys for the Cruiser. Looks like I'll get

• Front and rear elockers.
• ARB dual compressor (and a trailer to hold it, man they are heavy)
• Smittybilt XRC 10 Comp-Series winch

Yikes, that's some serious coin. Don't know if I should get all that but hey, YOLO as the youngsters say.

 

[alan]

Hi Rob,
we are a dealer for e-lockers,can also help you with the ARB compressor and winch.

 

[graynomad]

Where are you?

I can fit the compressor and winch (although they don't charge much to do that job) but not the lockers so probably have to do them locally.

 

[alan]

www.outbackaccessories.com

 

[graynomad]

if you have a look at some of their models you might find something close to the one you are going to build and get a good idea of weights for various models.

I've had a look.

The total dry weight for the Ranger slide on camper is approximately 800Kg. Any options fitted may increase the overall weight.

Yikes, that's heavy, but then

The total dry weight for the Cruise-n-Snooze camper is approximately 200Kg. Any modifications may increase the overall weight.

No bad, nowhere near the features of the larger units but nice and light.

No prices though

you mentioned water but not how you intend to filter/sterilize it

In the past (for over 10 years now) we've had two filters, a 20-micron for sediment to produce "fresh" water followed by a 0.5-micron silver-impregnated carbon filter for drinking water. But we only have a single tank, we don't separate the fresh and drinking into different tanks so that system works well.

In the Cruiser I will have separate tanks so have to think about what to do and UV may be the ticket.

$310 is a lot but only a one-off so OK, but the annual replacement of bulbs will cost another $71? Actually that's OK as well, the carbon filters we currently use can cost $40-60.

One other thing is how will you turn on the power? If it's working "on demand" you would have to flick a switch every time you use the tap.

I do like the look of them though, it's worth putting some thought into it.

 

[graynomad]

it's worth putting some thought into it.

Ok, I've put some thought into it.

a) Use a foot switch to control the pump, the same switch can also control the power to the UV unit. I've always had pressure switching but I know people with a foot switch and it works just fine.

b) Continue using a pressure switch but have it also control the UV unit.

Both these options require some 240v wiring to be done...no they don't, the unit has a plug pack so it's probably just 12v anyway (I can't read the label).

 

[graynomad]

Alan, I'll PM you.

 

[graynomad]

Mounting.

I hate to bring this up because I know it's a contentious subject but here goes.

I've always been a fan of 3- or 4-point kinetic/torsion-free/whatever mounting, but I've always built on a large truck before and we all know how much those chassis can twist.

But what about this Landcruiser? The chassis is tiny, and just how flexible is it anyway? Certainly I've never seen anything but a simple bolt-on approach with trays on these Cruisers, but then the normal tray is probably OK with a little flex.

I have already designed a 3-point mount but I'm far from convinced I need it.

When I get to the workshop I'll start lifting wheels with a forklift etc but meanwhile any ideas, or better yet experience with this (or similar) chassis?

 

[mrFelix]

just some thoughts...........most larger tucks which have flexible chassis do so because they have very firm suspension which requires heavy loads to operate acceptably, the landcruiser if using well designed suspension should negate the need for a flexible sub frame. Having said that you did mention you were considering using airbags if so keep in mind that air bags do limit suspension travel.

 

[mrFelix]

just another thought, now that you are entering the world of small wheels why not join the land cruiser owners group, some serious no nonsense types to be found

http://www.lcool.org/