The ultimate Aussie expedition camper

[graynomad]

join the land cruiser owners group

Done, another forum to spend all my day on

The air bags will just be helpers for the springs, I haven't looked that close yet but I think the bags compress to 2", I don't know if that will restrict the suspension travel or not, haven't looked at things that close yet but maybe it's time I did.

 

[mrFelix]

20 check...........at long last I'm live :Wow1:

 

[k9lestat]

Mounting.

I hate to bring this up because I know it's a contentious subject but here goes.

I've always been a fan of 3- or 4-point kinetic/torsion-free/whatever mounting, but I've always built on a large truck before and we all know how much those chassis can twist.

But what about this Landcruiser? The chassis is tiny, and just how flexible is it anyway? Certainly I've never seen anything but a simple bolt-on approach with trays on these Cruisers, but then the normal tray is probably OK with a little flex.

I have already designed a 3-point mount but I'm far from convinced I need it.

When I get to the workshop I'll start lifting wheels with a forklift etc but meanwhile any ideas, or better yet experience with this (or similar) chassis?

now i dont know anything about land rover cruisers and the like but my experience is with Toyota and American trucks. i would think that if you putting a camper pod on it, it would flex more than usual due to the weight. i know there is some flex in the frame with out a load. i feel it would better to build for it now rather than later when you find you need it.

 

[graynomad]

at long last I'm live

At last.

it would flex more than usual due to the weight.

Correct. I'll do a test with the tray off and a dummy weight on, but you're right, I should assume the worst. Better that than not doing it and getting a broken box.

 

[Outback]

I wasn't aware they were available on the 75s, interesting.

Yes I'm happy with skinny tyres on split rims, I know how to fix them in the bush.

I'm probably going over the top with lockers and winches, especially for a non-hard core rig. Still we are always going solo and I like to be self-sufficient.

Our Cruiser has 231kk on the clock, it looks ok and should be still in pretty good nick but you never know of course.

I do not think winches and lockers are over the top. In fact I would say they are mandatory especially for a solo rig. I would go with selectable lockers and a high quality winch(s). Two winches as long as they are out of the way should be fine. Synthetic rope will help keep there weight down. By the way I love the design you have set forth of page one. If you come out to the U.S. you can find a whole gaggle of fellow expeditioners in Prescott, Arizona as well as the Overland Journal Headquarters.

 

[graynomad]

Yeah I think you're right, especially going solo.

I don't think I can spring for two winches but I do have my Tirfor, I've been thinking of taking that as well just in case I really need to get out backwards, or right the vehicle etc.

I'd love to come out, even bring the Cruiser but I don't know how hard that would be and if it's worth it for a 3-month visa. Maybe it would be easier to get into Canada and poke across the border for 3 months at a time. I have been to the US (many years ago), just loved it and states like AZ, UT etc are pretty much my style of landscape.

Love your rig as well, old-fashioned and simple. I was thinking of going full disruptive camo but I reckon I'll just use a matt desert colour now.

 

[alan]

Yeah I think you're right, especially going solo.

I don't think I can spring for two winches but I do have my Tirfor, I've been thinking of taking that as well just in case I really need to get out backwards, or right the vehicle etc.

I'd love to come out, even bring the Cruiser but I don't know how hard that would be and if it's worth it for a 3-month visa. Maybe it would be easier to get into Canada and poke across the border for 3 months at a time. I have been to the US (many years ago), just loved it and states like AZ, UT etc are pretty much my style of landscape.

Love your rig as well, old-fashioned and simple. I was thinking of going full disruptive camo but I reckon I'll just use a matt desert colour now.

Just don't mention the color beige! there's some weird people on here that think it's not a color:wings:

 

[graynomad]

No I'll use "desert sand", according to Wiki

Desert sand is a brilliant tan color which resembles the color of desert sand...

so far so good, but then

...It may also be regarded as a deep tone of beige.

Oh dear

Hang on, further down

Sand dune (Drab)
Sand dune is a color that resembles the color of a sand dune composed of dark colored sand...

that sounds ok, but then

...Two other alternate names for this exact color are drab and mode beige

bugga.

Dunno what I'll do now...wait

Field drab
Field drab is one of the twelve official camouflage colors of the United States Army

That's what I'm using "field drab".

 

[alan]

field drab sounds good, what until Stu reads this.

 

[k9lestat]

how bout a three tone camo of lavender, purple and blue.:sombrero:

 

[graynomad]

yeah, just the thing for stealth camping in a...hmmm...a gay Mardi Gras.

 

[k9lestat]

lol

 

[mrFelix]

hey Rob you probably know the answer to this; my camper has an mppt regulator which has a warning of a maximum input of 22v, now on the back of all panels they quote Voc and Vmp so which do you think the regulator is referring to , given one is over 22v and the other under?
cheers

 

[graynomad]

Hmmm, 22v seems low for an MPPT, the whole point of them is to be good with higher voltages. But I suppose if it's a cheapie designed for a 12v system.

Still if it says 22v you have to assume that any more than that will blow it up, regardless of what the label is on the panel. So as Voc is the highest the panel can produce, you have to assume that voltage will appear across the regulator one day.

If for example you were to connect the panel to the controller before the batteries, that would almost certainly have no load so Voc will be placed across the regulator, not good. You can say "ok I'll never do that, I'll always connect the battery first", but if a battery lead comes off or you forget in 2 years and take one off for maintenance, poof, there goes the regulator (maybe, maybe not, depends on conditions at the time and how robust it's been designed).

So the short answer is that IMO that regulator is possibly not suitable for panels with a Voc > 22V, or is it the other way around?

 

[mrFelix]

thanks rob, good explanation, clears that up for me. regulator is inbuilt into a Ctek D250s Dual