The War Wagon: A 2005 Toyota Tundra AC's transformation to Overlanding Rig
- Thread starter CrewServed
- Start date
CrewServed
"That" guy
I have a confession to make: my current (hah!) wiring situation is disgraceful, which is one of the things that prompted this project. Really, the motivation to make it right is one of the driving factors, along with creating an opportunity to learn something new.
I've been down in SoCal for the weekend, so no movement forward on this project. I had also ordered an incorrect part, so a replacement is inbound and should arrive on Wednesday.
Let's all learn from my stupid mistake:
I had ordered the 15303-5-2-4, which means had only one internal bus bar for the fused side (positive) side only. I looked at my ordering history and saw that the error was created by a bug in the system located between the keyboard and the chair. To correct this I could have just ordered an five-terminal external bus bar, which I'm not too keen on. There are mounting plates available for other model vehicles that could have made this a simple and clean fix, but as you, my fellow Gen 1 owners know, there is a woeful lack of support for our trucks. So back to Waytek Wire I went to order the correct part with internal bus bars for both the fused and relay sides.
Just so we're clear, Part No. 15303-2-2-4 is the one with internal bus bars for both the fused and relay sides, which is the one that I want.
And so we wait...
Edit: Wow, that picture came out potato quality. Link to original PDF data sheet, scroll to the bottom.
I've been down in SoCal for the weekend, so no movement forward on this project. I had also ordered an incorrect part, so a replacement is inbound and should arrive on Wednesday.
Let's all learn from my stupid mistake:
I had ordered the 15303-5-2-4, which means had only one internal bus bar for the fused side (positive) side only. I looked at my ordering history and saw that the error was created by a bug in the system located between the keyboard and the chair. To correct this I could have just ordered an five-terminal external bus bar, which I'm not too keen on. There are mounting plates available for other model vehicles that could have made this a simple and clean fix, but as you, my fellow Gen 1 owners know, there is a woeful lack of support for our trucks. So back to Waytek Wire I went to order the correct part with internal bus bars for both the fused and relay sides.
Just so we're clear, Part No. 15303-2-2-4 is the one with internal bus bars for both the fused and relay sides, which is the one that I want.
And so we wait...
Edit: Wow, that picture came out potato quality. Link to original PDF data sheet, scroll to the bottom.
Last edited:
CrewServed
"That" guy
Okay, parts came in, did some work, and almost ready to install.
I had some Kydex lying around the garage from a previous project that had gotten my attention, so I made some measurements, cut the appropriate shape, and used a heat gun and the edge of my workbench to get the 90 degree bends I needed.
Jumpers installed on the back of the switches.
Everything installed back into the overhead console. I'm not fully satisfied with the results. It looks pretty good, but the addition of terminals and wiring in the back made for a very tight fit. Some massaging was done to get the panel to close, but any kind of bump to the console gets the whole thing to drop open again. I don't like the rubbing in the back, since friction will lead to failure, failure leads to hate, and hate leads to the dark side. I'll likely do something like a 1/4" offset on the front and a 3/4" offset on the rear, using some Kydex to fill the gap. More on this as the project progresses.
Replacement RTMR came in, so I finished up the wiring and installed fuses and relays to align everything and hold things in place.
Assuming I get the switch panel sorted out, installation will take place this weekend. Installation will include removing old relays, all old inline fuses, and some wiring. I'll have to reroute some of the wiring and relocate the powerpole terminal that I use for my portable compressor as well. Pictures will be included, of course.
I had some Kydex lying around the garage from a previous project that had gotten my attention, so I made some measurements, cut the appropriate shape, and used a heat gun and the edge of my workbench to get the 90 degree bends I needed.
Jumpers installed on the back of the switches.
Everything installed back into the overhead console. I'm not fully satisfied with the results. It looks pretty good, but the addition of terminals and wiring in the back made for a very tight fit. Some massaging was done to get the panel to close, but any kind of bump to the console gets the whole thing to drop open again. I don't like the rubbing in the back, since friction will lead to failure, failure leads to hate, and hate leads to the dark side. I'll likely do something like a 1/4" offset on the front and a 3/4" offset on the rear, using some Kydex to fill the gap. More on this as the project progresses.
Replacement RTMR came in, so I finished up the wiring and installed fuses and relays to align everything and hold things in place.
Assuming I get the switch panel sorted out, installation will take place this weekend. Installation will include removing old relays, all old inline fuses, and some wiring. I'll have to reroute some of the wiring and relocate the powerpole terminal that I use for my portable compressor as well. Pictures will be included, of course.
SportsmanJake
Adventurer
The kydex ended up looking pretty good.
Thanks for the documentation too. It will make it easier for the rest of us to do it!
Keep us posted as you do more refinement.
Thanks for the documentation too. It will make it easier for the rest of us to do it!
Keep us posted as you do more refinement.
trailscape
Explorer
I did eventually get tired of some of that wiring myself. I soldered one piece of solid copper wire across all the ground leads (note: It's risky, I ruined a couple rockers getting the heat right). I also epoxied a 2" flat section of aluminum angle between the rocker panel and what's left of the sunglass holder behind the locking tab. I might've done that on the opposite side too between the hinge tabs, but after I did it closes nice and tight with a solid click.
CrewServed
"That" guy
Installation Day!
Not quite wrapped up with the job, but everything is in place and functioning as desired. In other words, my truck isn’t on fire.
Center: RTMR with cover off
Top right corner: Terminal block for positive source power to accessories.
Right center: Bus bar for common grounds from accessories.
In the center of this image is the 80A resettable breaker. 80A is the rating for the internal bus bars in the RTMR, so I protected for that.
Trim panels removed and wire loom fed through firewall.
A-pillar trim and both visors removed to give me room to route wires.
Checked against the EWD and saw that I should tap into any of the green wires in the dash to power the independent lights in the switch. Now the text on the switches come on with the dash lights.
Spoke with an installation pro at work, and though there are many ways to tap into a line, “cut and butt” is the way he recommended.
Note: always tug firmly on new connections, whether crimped, soldered, or whatevs.
First electrical accessories connected. Everything works and nothing is burning. Not bad.
Ninja edit: Video of switch panel working and totally not sparking, smoking, or otherwise being in flames. https://youtu.be/F4VOyf-iL7k
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not quite wrapped up with the job, but everything is in place and functioning as desired. In other words, my truck isn’t on fire.
Center: RTMR with cover off
Top right corner: Terminal block for positive source power to accessories.
Right center: Bus bar for common grounds from accessories.
In the center of this image is the 80A resettable breaker. 80A is the rating for the internal bus bars in the RTMR, so I protected for that.
Trim panels removed and wire loom fed through firewall.
A-pillar trim and both visors removed to give me room to route wires.
Checked against the EWD and saw that I should tap into any of the green wires in the dash to power the independent lights in the switch. Now the text on the switches come on with the dash lights.
Spoke with an installation pro at work, and though there are many ways to tap into a line, “cut and butt” is the way he recommended.
Note: always tug firmly on new connections, whether crimped, soldered, or whatevs.
First electrical accessories connected. Everything works and nothing is burning. Not bad.
Ninja edit: Video of switch panel working and totally not sparking, smoking, or otherwise being in flames. https://youtu.be/F4VOyf-iL7k
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
CrewServed
"That" guy
Did a little wrapping up today since I ran out of daylight yesterday and had hit that point where workmanship takes a nosedive.
https://youtu.be/YRSdQDRPshY
I had previously installed an Anderson SB50 quick connect under the hood for my compressor. Turns out having to open the hood every time I had to air up is kind of a pain, so I moved it outside just beneath the D/S headlight.
Labeled the accessory source wires.
The kydex spacer wasn’t working out with a wedge shape so I ran out of Fs to give and just did 1” wide all the way around. Fixed in place with cyanoacrylate (Krazy) glue. There, now everything closes and stuff.
Of course after I put all the tools away and cleaned up the shop I decided to pull the tools back out again to do the diff breather relocation mod. Wrapped high-pressure hose with wire loom to protect against abrasion and to make it... cute.
Gave myself about 2’ of slack for flex because I’m pretending my rear suspension flexes that much.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://youtu.be/YRSdQDRPshY
I had previously installed an Anderson SB50 quick connect under the hood for my compressor. Turns out having to open the hood every time I had to air up is kind of a pain, so I moved it outside just beneath the D/S headlight.
Labeled the accessory source wires.
The kydex spacer wasn’t working out with a wedge shape so I ran out of Fs to give and just did 1” wide all the way around. Fixed in place with cyanoacrylate (Krazy) glue. There, now everything closes and stuff.
Of course after I put all the tools away and cleaned up the shop I decided to pull the tools back out again to do the diff breather relocation mod. Wrapped high-pressure hose with wire loom to protect against abrasion and to make it... cute.
Gave myself about 2’ of slack for flex because I’m pretending my rear suspension flexes that much.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
CrewServed
"That" guy
Looks like the exhaust is going to rust out from under the truck soon. I'll need to replace it in due time, so I'll start doing the homework now. Figuring an OEM replacement runs about $400, looks like an aftermarket option isn't a silly or unecessary upgrade. What are your experiences with aftermarket exhausts? I'm in CA, so the sky is not the limit, but I'd like to hear if anybody has had good or bad experiences with any manufacturer.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
bkg
Explorer
Assuming you're talking cat-back type of exhaust.
IMHO, it's all going to come down to personal preference WRT how it sounds. I really like the Magnaflow on my xcab Tacoma.... but I couldn't deal with it after I put it on my DD doublecab. Sounds great a few miles a year, but not day to day.
For some reason, likely emotional and not logical, I do like Magnaflow's products. Borla is nice as well, but IMHO, the cost is outrageous. I've built two systems myself with a tube kit from amazon and magnaflow mufflers
IMHO, it's all going to come down to personal preference WRT how it sounds. I really like the Magnaflow on my xcab Tacoma.... but I couldn't deal with it after I put it on my DD doublecab. Sounds great a few miles a year, but not day to day.
For some reason, likely emotional and not logical, I do like Magnaflow's products. Borla is nice as well, but IMHO, the cost is outrageous. I've built two systems myself with a tube kit from amazon and magnaflow mufflers
Talk to Keith at Dirty Deeds Industries (BAM mufflers)
Really good guy with tons of first and second Tundra experience
blueranger501
Observer
CrewServed
"That" guy
Alright, thanks guys. I've bookmarked the website and I'll go that route if/when parts start failing.