The "yet to be named" tundra build

Haggis

Appalachian Ridgerunner
Sorry I am throwing this in here...

Throw away...We're interested in all the things that might get attached, hooked up, or pass by your Tundra. Heck, your build thread can't get anymore contorted than that of my Tundra. :elkgrin:

I'm really interested in how the airbags will interact with the Deavers when you get them installed. The possibilities are turning gears in my brain. I'm digging the progression of your truck from stocker to "Dude Approved". :elkgrin:
 

the dude

Adventurer
hehe Thanks!

I didn't get as far as I wanted to on the install. The battery trays bolt downs interfered with the trailer tongue. Ever have one of those 20 min jobs take three hours? This was it. I had to get the wife to hold the inside nuts as I turned the ones under the box. Still don't have the hold downs adjusted right. The phillips head bolt was a terrible idea. Still not sure on wiring for two systems. I drew it out but I need a second opinion. I will post up over in the 12V section. I want 12V charging from the 7 pin plug and 24V from a separate plug (think fork lift style). So that I can't get the 24V and 12V systems mixed up.


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the dude

Adventurer
Trailer worked great. Fridge lasted for the four days we where gone. I will do a longer test now that I am at home.

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if you ever get the chance to visit western Alberta, it is fantastic country:

Cresent Falls:

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the dude

Adventurer
New suspension for the Tundra. Well new to me. Used coils up front and new in the rear. I am going to use my Bilsteins set to the lowest level. I should have them in by the end of the day. I am waiting on some greasable bolts before I install the rears.

OME 886 coil on the left, OEM coil on the right

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Deavers for the rear:

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the dude

Adventurer
Not sure what I like more, the poly bushings on the steering or the OME coils. Both improved the truck DRASTICALLY. I went up over an inch in the front which is OK as the 255 rubbed a little under compression. The steering is tight and controlled. This truck is finally turning into what toyota should have built...

I also installed a 1" dif drop.

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the dude

Adventurer
Front ground to the top of the fender well started at 34", turned into 37.75" with bilsteins (second from highest setting) and 255/85R16 and went to 38.75 with OME 886 and Bilsteins at lowest setting

Here's an old picture with the stock springs and bilsteins. Not much noticeable difference in looks. Drive WAY better.

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the dude

Adventurer
Deaver springs are in. 1.5" of lift with 400lbs extra capacity. I LOVE the ride of this truck with the OME/Deaver combo. Air bags are at 5psi. I also did a u-bolt flip at the same time as I had an extra set of hardware lying around. Measurements are from the ground to the wheel well.

Front:
Stock~34"
OME 886 with Bilstein 5100s set at the lowest-255/85R16 toyo MT~38"

Rear
Stock~36"
Deaver 1.5" lifted-255/85R16 toyo MT~ 38.5"

Out with the old:
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Side by side:
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in with the new:
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the dude

Adventurer
I just got the speed calibration unit in from Superlift. A special thanks to Victor Camperi from Findlay Toyota for the instructions on the install for my 06 DC.

unit placed in the glove box for easy access. The wife and I just got back from a cruise on the highway and it is perfectly calibrated. The shifts are nicer and OD holds better. It will be interesting to see if the MPG improve.

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the dude

Adventurer
It's been a while but I finally got some more done to the truck. The speedo calibration is worth every penny. I can hold OD with the larger tires pulling the boat and the expo trailer. my MPG has gone up 1.5 mpg as well so I am happy.

I found a great deal on this little compressor. I will mount it permanently under the hood I think. The tool box is a cool idea though.

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I also found myself a used topper that just needs paint and a rack.

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Does anybody have any experience with a rubber boot that can go between the rear window and the topper? The topper has a sliding rear window that I might fully remove if the boot seals well enough. I would be concerned about the contact area on the truck but you must be able to use a 3M product to protect it?
 

Derek24

Explorer
Shell looks good! I would'nt worry about the boot. I had one one my old T100 and it did more damage then good. It wore the paint on the cab and never sealed right since I was offroad alot and the flexing would 'un-seal' it. 3M protection would probably work. One cool thing would be to remove that front window of the camper shell completely and put a boot on, so when you roll down the rear window of the truck you could easily crawl through, or if you're sleeping back there you could use the truck heater to warm up the back. But dirt always seems to fit into the tightest of places, even between the boot....
 

Trail100

Observer
Does anybody have any experience with a rubber boot that can go between the rear window and the topper? The topper has a sliding rear window that I might fully remove if the boot seals well enough. I would be concerned about the contact area on the truck but you must be able to use a 3M product to protect it?

I've seen this stuff used before but I don"t think you could make it work with the power window on the back of your DC.
http://www.amazon.com/CRL-Slider-Accordion-Boot-Seal/dp/B000MPOHX4
 
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