Tire Recommendations for GMT800 Tahoe?

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
For similar performance to the KO without the KO price consider Falken Wildpeak AT3W. I have a set of them in 33" (285/75/16) and they have been great tires. Not noisy and decent in both snow and mild off roading in the four corners states.

The Wildpeaks saved me around $200 over an equivalent BFG AT KO2. Going from 17 to 16" wheels also saved me some money. I paid around $850 OTD for my 33" Wildpeak's in November of 2016, I would think if you are going with a smaller size (265/70/17 I think is the standard size for an LT Tahoe/Suburban) it should be around your budget price at Discount.

http://www.falkentire.com/tires/light-truck-suv-cuv-tires/wildpeak/t3w-tire

wildpeak.jpg

I like the Wildpeaks because they carry the "sever weather" snowflake/mountain rating, which AFAIK the Coopers do not.

About ~20k on my Wildpeaks now and really not showing a lot of wear.
 
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nitro_rat

Lunchbox Lockers
I have the Cooper ATPs (the Discount Tire version of the A/T3) on my Expedition (similar size/weight to a Tahoe). I like them. Road noise is minimal. I've had them for 11k miles and wear seems to be minimal (rotated twice now). Snow traction is good if I behave.

A friend of mine works at Discount Tire and told me that the KO2s seem to wear a little faster than the ATPs- and the ATPs cost a little less.

Sold!

Having run both the AT3’s (on my personal vehicles) and the ATP’s (on company vehicles) I would say that the AT3’s are much superior. The ATP’s don’t seem to wear as well or as evenly, even rotated frequently they would chop out. They also don't seem to have as much traction in the wet, sand, or mud. Never ran the company truck in snow or ice but my AT3’s did really well in all.

Both tires were mounted on 3/4 ton straight axle 4x4’s...
 
For similar performance to the KO without the KO price consider Falken Wildpeak AT3W. I have a set of them in 33" (285/75/16) and they have been great tires. Not noisy and decent in both snow and mild off roading in the four corners states.

The Wildpeaks saved me around $200 over an equivalent BFG AT KO2. Going from 17 to 16" wheels also saved me some money. I paid around $850 OTD for my 33" Wildpeak's in November of 2016, I would think if you are going with a smaller size (265/70/17 I think is the standard size for an LT Tahoe/Suburban) it should be around your budget price at Discount.

http://www.falkentire.com/tires/light-truck-suv-cuv-tires/wildpeak/t3w-tire

View attachment 436939

I like the Wildpeaks because they carry the "sever weather" snowflake/mountain rating, which AFAIK the Coopers do not.

About ~20k on my Wildpeaks now and really not showing a lot of wear.

They look good, not too far out of my price range too. Will definitely keep them in mind, Thanks!
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Forgot the say I liked the Yokohama Geolanders enough that I recently put the newer G015s on our '05 Tahoe. But it's mostly highway driven.
 

HenryJ

Expedition Leader
I had a friend rave about his Nitto tires. I was a firm BFG believer. When they took such a big price increase I decided to try the Nitto Terra Grapplers.

bumper2.jpg


Very glad that I did. They have been awesome. The wear is very good. Very quiet on the road. Grip in my high-desert terrain is acceptable. Last winter they did pretty good in record snowfall. I am lightly lifted running the Nitto Terra Grappler 285/75-17. I have 30k miles on them now.
I like to run on the top half of the tread and have been thinking about changing them next fall or winter.
Nitto now has the Ridge Grappler. A little more aggressive. I am thinking that they may be a little better for what I frequent. I suspect a little more road noise though.

Nitto is something to consider :) Price is very good. Quality and performance very good. I like the tall skinny and they have the 75 that I need.
 

Burb One

Adventurer
I have been loving my Wildpeak At3's.
I had Wildpeak At2's before, liked them a bit more than BFG's and Grapplers.

The new AT3 has blown me out of the water in mud. I never thought a tire could have such good road manners and still churn through mud like they do.
They are more than decent in the dry, snow, roadnoise, etc. as well.
Best AT I have ever had

10k miles in and the wear nubs just came off.
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Title is obvious, I'm looking to get new tires for my Tahoe for 17 inch rims. Not trying to go with anything crazy. I will be putting a leveling kit in soon.
Tires would need to be streetable, don't want too much road noise. Something that is primarily a street tire and decent off-road tire.
I was considering the Cooper AT3 since it has a decent treadwear rating however I'm not sure about the road noise.
Budget is around 500-600
Would possibly go up to a 33" tire if it is cheap but I think a 31 would be best for my application since the truck sees 90% street miles 10% off-road
Recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Dusty_Tahoe,

How much are you looking to spend? Every single one of the tires everyone has mentioned are great and you will not be disappointed.

You said 90% street, 10% off-road. What kind of weather are you driving in on the street, all dry, 50/50 dry/rain, 50/25/25 dry/rain/snow. Also what kind of off-road conditions are you driving in? Gravel/dirt roads, washboard, mud/farm, rocks, sandstone, snow trails?

How do you inflate you tires? Max PSI rating, 35psi for normal driving, 30psi for more comfortable ride?

How many miles are you expecting to get out of the tires? ATs run around 40k. Have you looked into HT (highway terrain)? Dura Grappler Highway Terrain tire has been one of my old time favorites, 80k miles on the '00 Sub and still have 8/32s left from running at 65psi approximately 90/10 highway/off road.

You will be very happy with what you get.
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Not sure which brakes you are installing, but I know that on our 2500 the 16's fit over the stock brakes that are bigger than the 1500 brakes.

Jeep-n-Montero,

You are wrong.

GMT800 1500 and 2500 front rotors are the same at 325mm, GMT900 2500 front rotors are also 325mm, GMT900 1500 front rotors are 330mm, that would be bigger than GMT800 and GMT900 2500 front rotors.

If you run a 16" steel rim you will have enough clearance for the GMT900 front brake caliper as long as you use rim clamp style wheel weights. If you have fancier or aluminum rims and use sticker weights, you will need at least a 17" rim to clear GMT900 front brake calipers.

I will be doing this upgrade once my pads wear out and it has been on the table for a year.

Best price of slotted driller rotors/calipers/brackets: $223.17 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...fl_title_11?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2J7XWWO69IXU3

Best price for just calipers/brackets: $136.91 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AH8CFHU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2J7XWWO69IXU3

Best price for plain front rotors: $65.79 shipped
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Brak...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I will try to get a couple pics of the difference between the upgraded brakes with 16" rim, 17" rim and 18" rim just so you can see exactly how much clearance each has later this week. (I have done this upgrade on 1/2 dozen of friends trucks last summer.)

Good luck.
 

HenryJ

Expedition Leader
The upgrade is from pre 2007 brakes to post 2007 brakes. It does indeed require 17" wheel size to clear the calipers.
brackets.JPG

Brackets and two rotors in the background

calipers.JPG

Larger caliper pistons.

rbrake.JPG

A comparison of the pads shows only a small increase in contact area. Most of the swap benefit comes from the mechanical advantage.

"The newer models received upgraded front brakes in the GMT900 vehicles. The rotors are one inch larger in diameter. An easy bolt on upgrade.
I went with local "performance parts" from NAPA. The application that I used was a 2007 Tahoe."

clearance.JPG

You can see caliper clearance is very tight to the wheel.

I tried mounting my 16" steel spare. No-go. Traded it off for a matching aluminum 17" wheel.

:)
 
Dusty_Tahoe,

How much are you looking to spend? Every single one of the tires everyone has mentioned are great and you will not be disappointed.

You said 90% street, 10% off-road. What kind of weather are you driving in on the street, all dry, 50/50 dry/rain, 50/25/25 dry/rain/snow. Also what kind of off-road conditions are you driving in? Gravel/dirt roads, washboard, mud/farm, rocks, sandstone, snow trails?

How do you inflate you tires? Max PSI rating, 35psi for normal driving, 30psi for more comfortable ride?

How many miles are you expecting to get out of the tires? ATs run around 40k. Have you looked into HT (highway terrain)? Dura Grappler Highway Terrain tire has been one of my old time favorites, 80k miles on the '00 Sub and still have 8/32s left from running at 65psi approximately 90/10 highway/off road.

You will be very happy with what you get.

I am trying to stay in the neighborhood of 5-600 for 4 tires, I drive in all weather conditions, I'm in New York, we don't get too many snow days, maybe 6-10 a year. The Tahoe is my daily driver so I'll be driving in rain or snow, lately it has been raining hard 2 days a week. Off-road wise I'll be on sand, would like to hit some dirt roads and trails this summer.

I inflate the tires to just under the Max PSI, truck rides pretty comfy for me. I'd like to get 40-50k out of my tires, my mustang runs through tires every season but I'm running R-comps or 100TW tires, So I would like whatever I have on the truck to last me at least 2-3 years.
I will look into the Dura Grapplers.

What is everyone's opinion on going with a thinner, taller tire? Does that help with fuel economy at all?
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
I'd say it's a wash. Smaller contact patch, less rolling resistance. Taller moment arm, greater rolling resistance.

And if you are talking about sand you'll want the wider contact patch to help float over it, narrower tire will dig in more.
 

XJLI

Adventurer
I don't think you'll have a problem with 40-50k. I hated my AT3s but they weren't even 50% worn with 40k on them. I have 20k on my K02s and they still have the nubs on em.
 

HenryJ

Expedition Leader
...Off-road wise I'll be on sand, would like to hit some dirt roads and trails this summer.

I inflate the tires to just under the Max PSI, truck rides pretty comfy for me. ...
Tire Pressure

Tire pressure is another source of tire related arguments. Too little pressure and the tire pops off the bead, too much and it becomes easy cut the sidewall destroying the tire. Right in the middle the tire will stay on the wheel and conform to every pebble in the trail. Too much pressure and you may gain some ground clearance, i run my 36x12.5s on 15x10s at 25 psi on the street and 5-12 on the trail.

Tuning pressure for street use:

Tuning pressure for street use is not too difficult of a task. Learning to adjust your tire pressures for the different terrains you wheel on is a great tool to have. The correct pressure on the street is required as it ensures long tread life, decent ride quality, and predicable handling. Pressure at either extremes on the street will cause issues. Pressure too high and youll wear the center of the tread off the tires very quickly and this will also produce a jarring ride. Pressure too low and the tires will build up heat, this will kill the tire quickly and cause adverse and unpredicable handling. Many people look at the rated pressure on the side of the tire and assume tha is the running pressure, ITS NOT. The pressure listed on the sidewall is usually maximum pressure. Do not exceed the max pressure but that is also not where it needs to be for most short wheelbase Jeeps. The max pressure is directly connected to the maximum load if your tires are rated for 2,000 lbs each. So for an example you have a set of tires that read max pres 35 psi and max load 2000 lbs. If your Jeep weights 8000 lbs loaded you may well need to put 35 psi in the tires, but hopefully that does not appy to you (if it does you need to evaluate what you are bringing with you). Inside the door jam of most Jeeps you will find a label that has a recomended tire pressure, thats great with the stock wheels and tires but once they have been modified those numbers are useless. Here is a comon procedure for finding the correct street pressure for your tires.


Find and empty parking lot.

Inflate your tires to the max pressure listed on the sidewall.

Mark the tires accross the tread with a piece of chalk or crayon whatever really.

Drive straight forward several feet, be sure not to turn at all.

Look at the mark across the tread and see which part of mark has worn off.

If the mark has worn off at the center but not at the edges you have too much pressure (duh i already told you max pressure would be too much). Drop the pressure and repeat steps 2-5 until the desired pattern is achived. Be careful too low of a pressure will rub the mark so allways start with too much and work your way down. Loading will play a large roll in your quest for the perfect tire pressure. Normally the front will be slightly more loaded than the rear as a result of the positioning of the engine, likewise a fullled loaded Jeep ready for 2 weeks in the woods may balance that out and require more pressure in the rear then normal. Atmospheric pressure and temperature play roles too. Changes between the seasons can effect optimum tire pressure. A 10 degree drop in temp will drop your cold tire pressure by 1 psi. Most tires will lose about 1 psi per month due to porosity of the rubber compond in the tires and slight leaks at the bead. Also alititude makes a difference pressure will increase slightly with a gain of altitude due to the reduced atmospheric pressure. Final determination of proper tire pressure is seat of the pants, go test drive it and play around for a while.

** If this method will not achieve the correct pattern you have selected the incorrect tire width/ wheel width combination.**

Tuning Pressure for Trail:

Tuning pressure for trail use is a little more difficult of a task. Almost every experienced Jeeper knows to reduce tire pressure as soon as thy reach the trail. Airing down will create traction on many surfaces by increasing contact patch (the amount of the tires tread in contact with the ground) also by allowing the tire to conform to irregularities, usually the trail isnt perfectly flat. Also consider that while you air down you decrease the ground pressure (pounds force per square inch across the contact patch) and your ground clearance, so dont over do it. From my experience what i have seen on the trails is a pressure between 5-15 psi depending on the tire/wheel combination and the Jeeps weight. Tuning for the trail is more experience than anything else there are just too many variables at play to give a dinfinative number, have fun experimenting though!

What is everyone's opinion on going with a thinner, taller tire? Does that help with fuel economy at all?
It depends upon your gearing and the rotating mass. I do like pizza cutters though. Tire Selection for Expedition Travel: The impact of tire width on traction
 

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