Tow strap vs. Kinetic rope
- Thread starter hovenator
- Start date
JamesDowning
Explorer
Very interesting.
I guess a 60' 6" strap has very similar dynamic qualities to a 30' 3" strap. The 6" having twice the spring constant of the 3", but equaling out due to the differences in lengths. The most important difference between the two is the WLL.
Now compare that same 60' 6" strap to a 30' 6" strap. I bet you'd get a much harsher pull from the 30'.
Scott Brady
Founder
Don't fear the upper division. . . 
tdesanto
Expedition Leader
How to know which tool is right for the job?
Given all the various ways people cautioned the use of kinetic straps, this is what I've been able to glean from the discussion:
1) Use caution when using kinetic straps due to the fact that you cannot accurately measure the applied forces.
2) Using a winch can be safer, because the user can ascertain a more predictable amount of force being applied.
3) There are times when a winch is called for and a time when a kinetic strap is called for. As has been stated several times, pick the right tool for the job.
So, this leaves me with this question: which tool for which job? Most of the discussion seemed to be centered around the dangers of not being able to predict the forces involved in using a kinetic strap or rope. Most of those posted that they’d rather start with a winch.
So, is that the best method? Use the winch first. When that doesn’t work, use the strap? At least that would help the user predict at least the minimum (maximum of the winch or winch rigging) amount of force that didn’t recover the vehicle during the initial attempt(s).
So, it would be a starting point for determining if your attachment points and anything else in the rigging is not designed to handle the minimum forces involved.
Those of you who said pick the right tool for the job at hand, how do you determine this?
Given all the various ways people cautioned the use of kinetic straps, this is what I've been able to glean from the discussion:
1) Use caution when using kinetic straps due to the fact that you cannot accurately measure the applied forces.
2) Using a winch can be safer, because the user can ascertain a more predictable amount of force being applied.
3) There are times when a winch is called for and a time when a kinetic strap is called for. As has been stated several times, pick the right tool for the job.
So, this leaves me with this question: which tool for which job? Most of the discussion seemed to be centered around the dangers of not being able to predict the forces involved in using a kinetic strap or rope. Most of those posted that they’d rather start with a winch.
So, is that the best method? Use the winch first. When that doesn’t work, use the strap? At least that would help the user predict at least the minimum (maximum of the winch or winch rigging) amount of force that didn’t recover the vehicle during the initial attempt(s).
So, it would be a starting point for determining if your attachment points and anything else in the rigging is not designed to handle the minimum forces involved.
Those of you who said pick the right tool for the job at hand, how do you determine this?
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Pretty simple for me. I use the tow strap on the easy and quick stuff. Obviously, a simple tow uses the strap. If it's a truck with crappy tires stuck on some silly little obstacle, like a muddy patch and the vehicle is stuck on a 4" log (I've seen this with stock Jeep tires), I'll pull it with the strap. It's just quick and easy. I'll give it a little tug if I have to. Beyond much more than a small tug, I won't use the strap. Then I would use the winch. I haven't had a stuck that the winch wouldn't pull. I've had it where my truck just gets pulled forward, which might call for a good snatch strap, but since I'm in the forests, I've always got a tree to tie the back of the truck to.
I've never done a Superman tug with a strap. Don't know if I ever will. I have had it done to me though.
I've never done a Superman tug with a strap. Don't know if I ever will. I have had it done to me though.
michaelgroves
Explorer
Don't fear the upper division. . .
What does that mean, Scott?
UK4X4
Expedition Leader
"Don't fear the upper division. . .
What does that mean, Scott?""
I think he means when we progress from "what tires should I fit to my tacoma"
To discussing algebraic force equations for springy ropes
I liked the expo shovel thread their were loads of neat suggestions..
However the and spark free version was a bit OTT
What does that mean, Scott?""
I think he means when we progress from "what tires should I fit to my tacoma"
To discussing algebraic force equations for springy ropes
I liked the expo shovel thread their were loads of neat suggestions..
However the and spark free version was a bit OTT
michaelgroves
Explorer
Yes, I'd try a winch or a tow-rope first. I'd use a KERR (in some circumstances) if there were no winch, adequate winch anchor, or sufficient snatch blocks. Even then, I'd explore the alternatives, such as jacking, digging, etc. When you most need the power of a KERR is unfortunately when it's most dangerous!
Recovery order: "Escalation of Force" AKA "Escalation of Potential Danger" This is ordered by safest to more dangerous.
1) "manual", ie, maybe lower tire air pressure, stack and jack, floor mats and,or rock to find traction. Sometimes a little thought and elbow grease is all you need.
Alright, you've assessed the situation and have come to the conclusion that the above will not work... Maybe you're diff.-hung, or high-sided, bogged, or failed on a hill,....just assess FIRST, then break out the recovery bag of tricks!
2) NOW break out equipment - try a simple STATIC tow first!
3) THEN, just maybe, the use of kinetic energy is required - try a simple low-speed "snatch" with a recovery strap.(No more than 1/3 of total length FIRST) Why break out the rubber band, KERR, when 15% stretch may be all you need?
4) And FINALLY maybe it's winch time! You've exhausted all other methods...right?
5) When all else has failed or you have no winch THEN go to the HiLift Winch
All of this presupposes you know how to PROPERLY use all the above gear. It presupposes you're smart enough to think before you do, and finally, it presupposes you were supposed to be where you are in the first place.
1) "manual", ie, maybe lower tire air pressure, stack and jack, floor mats and,or rock to find traction. Sometimes a little thought and elbow grease is all you need.
Alright, you've assessed the situation and have come to the conclusion that the above will not work... Maybe you're diff.-hung, or high-sided, bogged, or failed on a hill,....just assess FIRST, then break out the recovery bag of tricks!
2) NOW break out equipment - try a simple STATIC tow first!
3) THEN, just maybe, the use of kinetic energy is required - try a simple low-speed "snatch" with a recovery strap.(No more than 1/3 of total length FIRST) Why break out the rubber band, KERR, when 15% stretch may be all you need?
4) And FINALLY maybe it's winch time! You've exhausted all other methods...right?
5) When all else has failed or you have no winch THEN go to the HiLift Winch
All of this presupposes you know how to PROPERLY use all the above gear. It presupposes you're smart enough to think before you do, and finally, it presupposes you were supposed to be where you are in the first place.
Very good advice I would say.
I have to add I think #1 is under used and people want to play with the toys. I feel that simple steps first can handle most conditions. I have had a number of times where something as simple as three guys pushing will unstick trucks as big as a unimog.
why complicate things if you dont have to.
great post JB
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Anyway, so when do we call in:
Antichrist
Expedition Leader
Rob, those are what your SPOT is for. :wings:
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