Tube crawler style buggy and Rtt thoughts.

[Metcalf]

It's a compromise for sure my 1984 4runner was to tall and underpowered. Other wise it was real close the closes I have found. I also liked the parts every kid in a trailer park has toyota parts.

Nothing wrong with toyota stuff. My only complaint with that version 4-runner was the stock rear overhang. I always wanted to build one with the longbed single cab wheelbase, but with the 4-runner length body. Basically it would be liked a bobbed bed with a bit more wheelbase....maybe 110-115ish wheelbase.

The biggest issue with mini-toyota stuff has always been power. If you can live with it you can.....if not your swapping stuff and the vehicle starts to get unbalanced for strength in the axles, trans, etc.

 

[98dango]

I tried a v8 toyota that was terrible idea for sure. I never did do a vortec 4.3 in one. I'm also worried about 50 state legal with a full tube rig. A small body like a jeep is the way I'm sure. Open wheel with removable fenders is an option. And for reference hear a few shots of past rigs I have tried to use build all had problems.

 

[98dango]

This was often the result.

 

[Metcalf]

I tried a v8 toyota that was terrible idea for sure. I never did do a vortec 4.3 in one. I'm also worried about 50 state legal with a full tube rig. A small body like a jeep is the way I'm sure. Open wheel with removable fenders is an option. And for reference hear a few shots of past rigs I have tried to use build all had problems.

50 state legal? Do you really need to be? Really?

 

[98dango]

Not really but Wa and Or are must Ut is also needed. I know most states will let you be if your licesanced and good in your state

 

[Metcalf]

Not really but Wa and Or are must Ut is also needed. I know most states will let you be if your licesanced and good in your state

Legally, you only have to be legal (registration, insurance) in your home state. (you may get hassled, but that is the law). Commercial use is another set of rules I believe.

 

[98dango]

So so what if I took my scout 800 and used that but left much of the body. I have one that is in less than seller shape. Built on or used part of the frame and did full tube from there. I could retain the factory glass possible doors. I would have wipers as well. Similar to the cj you showed eriler.

 

[98dango]

This was a good setup as well but still under powered.

 

[Metcalf]

So so what if I took my scout 800 and used that but left much of the body. I have one that is in less than seller shape. Built on or used part of the frame and did full tube from there. I could retain the factory glass possible doors. I would have wipers as well. Similar to the cj you showed eriler.

The CJ project I have been working on I showed earlier is just the SKINS of a CJ7/YJ. It isn't based off using a tub. The entire frame and inside is custom. You could do something similar with a scout, but finding replacement scout parts is going to be tough. Making it once would be easy, but repairing it in the future is going to be more difficult with the rare/expensive scout body panels. If you push the vehicle on the trails the body panels will get trashed eventually. That is the #1 reason why I chose to use boring old Jeep panels. I didn't have to buy a base vehicle and you can just buy aftermarket replacement panels. This will make replacement in the future easy. As boring and normal as they are, Jeeps will always be supported in the aftermarket.

You could design and make a totally scratch built vehicle also. The panels could be simplified to be easily replaceable. The main issue I have with this is that its a LOT of work. Making EVERYTHING from scratch like the windshield frame, wipers, doors, tops, etc will take a LOT more time....LOTS.

 

[98dango]

True a roll will take out the window. There just so many options honestly. You can do anything if you think it through

 

[Metcalf]

True a roll will take out the window. There just so many options honestly. You can do anything if you think it through

Yup, That is why I went with a common boring jeep body as a base. If you think about it too much you just never get anywhere. You can build anything to do this.....its building it cost and time efficiently that is the real challenge! Rebuilding an existing vehicle could be just as much work, or even more work, than starting with nothing.

 

[98dango]

Looks like I need to get a whole new pile of parts. I do need to finish my current project. I have sold lots to help with this. As we have talked tho I feel I need to buy a bit more tooling and I definitely need a bigger shop. I do feel a 5.3 would be the best power for this I am not sold on electronic transmission tho. May have to go nv4500.

 

[Metcalf]

Looks like I need to get a whole new pile of parts. I do need to finish my current project. I have sold lots to help with this. As we have talked tho I feel I need to buy a bit more tooling and I definitely need a bigger shop. I do feel a 5.3 would be the best power for this I am not sold on electronic transmission tho. May have to go nv4500.

You could always do a hydraulic/mechanical automatic trans, you could even go as far as using a manual valve body. For HARD off road use I think a manual needs deeper gears than are easy to fit in most chassis. It is really nice to have a decent middle gearing range for desert/sand/mud stuff also.

The LS V8s seems to be pretty boring in there reliability, power, and expected life. I designed my chassis so I could use the complete LS truck engine.....deep oil pan, tall intake, accessories, and exhaust manifolds. Personally I even consider the 4.8 truck engines a decent option depending on overall weight.

NV4500's a pretty decent. They are pretty big...specifically pretty tall. That makes fitting one in a compact chassis a little harder sometimes.

Lots and lots of options. While the entire vehicle I designed is pretty much custom I tried to design the chassis to use as many un-custom parts as possible. It has room for a truck LS engine, more transmission room, more transfer case room, path for exhaust in the rocker/boatside area, designed for full width axles, can be built passenger or drivers drop front, etc.

 

[98dango]

I feel that easy inexpensive parts are the way I honestly would prefer an automatic for ease and comfort. Also I will see mud and dunes where an auto is nice. I personally have never had good luck with the 4l60e or 80e. A th 350 is good but the loss of overdrive affects axel gearing.

 

[Metcalf]

I feel that easy inexpensive parts are the way I honestly would prefer an automatic for ease and comfort. Also I will see mud and dunes where an auto is nice. I personally have never had good luck with the 4l60e or 80e. A th 350 is good but the loss of overdrive affects axel gearing.

One of the better overall combo's in my opinion, Run a beefy TH400 auto with a manual valve body and gear the axles for the highway speeds you want ( taller gearing than normal ). Then run a multi-speed transfer case to give you a good middle range for the sand/desert/mud and some deeper gearing for the technical stuff. Something about 20:1 for the middle range and 50-55:1 on the low end. The downside is cost. I think something like an ORD magnum crawler box with an NP205 transfer case is a pretty good combo for the weight/cost/length compromise. There are more expensive options.