Pinnacle Campers
Chateau spotter
Ok, I'm going to jump in and say, as someone who just did a ujoint kit,” just follow the instructions”. You bought the kit because he has it all figured out saving time and money, why stop at the x-member?
But…
I went the other way, I made a second cutting deeper than the instructions, cutting the whole vertical flange all the way to the bend. As Chris mentioned, it was designed to carry the front “I beam” control arms, now that they are gone its overkill for holding up the motor, take a look at a 99-2004 F truck, it's a much smaller x-member.
Here is a pic of the front diff to x-member clearance with a ruler to show scale. This is following Chris's instructions, also before spring settling, It had just got set on the ground. I would say that it tapers to about 2” at the top, it is a little deceiving though as that flange on the diff would go behind the vertical flange of the x-member. Really hard to tell what would make contact first and the distance it would have to travel, to hit anything.
Here is my version,
Here are the two cuts, lower with control arm bracket attached (its upside down).
My intent is to get more up travel, The front tires aren't tucked very far into the wheel well….
This is while on the rock, you can see here there is plenty of clearance to the x-member, and the bumpstops for that matter, leafs are starting to bend the opposite way. I really wish I had inspected and took a pic of the shock in this position, I think it is nearly bottomed out. I will have to take it out again.
So what if I made those two (or three) lower leafs spacers? Chris, have you tried to get more up travel out of a 4” van without going 6”? What is the limiting factor?
Front axle weighs 3600 with me in it and the V10, I know softer equals less weight carrying capacity, I dont know much about leaf springs...
Would making the springs softer and shorter shocks get me what I'm looking for, less stiff and bumpy, more up travel? What is the downside?
But…
I went the other way, I made a second cutting deeper than the instructions, cutting the whole vertical flange all the way to the bend. As Chris mentioned, it was designed to carry the front “I beam” control arms, now that they are gone its overkill for holding up the motor, take a look at a 99-2004 F truck, it's a much smaller x-member.
Here is a pic of the front diff to x-member clearance with a ruler to show scale. This is following Chris's instructions, also before spring settling, It had just got set on the ground. I would say that it tapers to about 2” at the top, it is a little deceiving though as that flange on the diff would go behind the vertical flange of the x-member. Really hard to tell what would make contact first and the distance it would have to travel, to hit anything.
Here is my version,
Here are the two cuts, lower with control arm bracket attached (its upside down).
My intent is to get more up travel, The front tires aren't tucked very far into the wheel well….
This is while on the rock, you can see here there is plenty of clearance to the x-member, and the bumpstops for that matter, leafs are starting to bend the opposite way. I really wish I had inspected and took a pic of the shock in this position, I think it is nearly bottomed out. I will have to take it out again.
So what if I made those two (or three) lower leafs spacers? Chris, have you tried to get more up travel out of a 4” van without going 6”? What is the limiting factor?
Front axle weighs 3600 with me in it and the V10, I know softer equals less weight carrying capacity, I dont know much about leaf springs...
Would making the springs softer and shorter shocks get me what I'm looking for, less stiff and bumpy, more up travel? What is the downside?
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