UJOR Build Thread

philos

Explorer
Those gold wheels would look right if your van was Subaru blue...
wait a minute, are going to rally cross V4?


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DzlToy

Explorer
A top quality product is never expensive. You buy it once, from a company with an excellent reputation, solid warranty and good customer service. The product should therefore last a lifetime. If you want $99 cast Chinese wheels, knock yourself out. There is no comparison to a motorsport grade or military grade forged wheel.

If you want to see a high dollar wheel, look at HRE, easily $3000 - $5000 for a set of four.

Chris, will there be matching green shag carpet and some gold accents inside the van to go along? :D
 

ujoint

Supporting Sponsor
A top quality product is never expensive. You buy it once, from a company with an excellent reputation, solid warranty and good customer service. The product should therefore last a lifetime. If you want $99 cast Chinese wheels, knock yourself out. There is no comparison to a motorsport grade or military grade forged wheel.

If you want to see a high dollar wheel, look at HRE, easily $3000 - $5000 for a set of four.

Chris, will there be matching green shag carpet and some gold accents inside the van to go along? :D

Exactly. Get what you pay for, USA forged & machined quality. Those car wheels are stupid expensive! Just walk through the wheel hall at SEMA and look at the candy in the booth. They're making a healthy profit.

No shag! Ha.
 

Jsweezy

Explorer
B190 is here! Ready to transform this marshmallow. These rigs are the most dramatic difference before/after.

16174855_1428672467151977_760314452660655809_n.jpg

Is this van from Oregon? I feel like I saw it on the local ads up here.
 

Navi

Adventurer
The wheels on the truck my brother is working on for a guy were $2k each. And it's a dually, 2017 F450. $600 per tire.
The lift kit on it was $12k in raw steel.
Quality stuff can get very expensive very fast.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Wow... and I thought Hutchinson's were expensive.

$600 for a forged 17" wheel isn't expensive compared to some others. Heck there are Method's or BBS's for 1.5x that....or for street cars HRE's or ADV1 or Rotiform's for double that price depending on finish (yes, pricing getting a bit silly there). Not saying I'd want to spend that much, but the pricing isn't out of line depending on the quality.
How much do they weigh Chris?
And how does their beadlock work in comparison to a Hutchinson?
 

fjefman

Member
The 6" has a better turning radius because we can run a longer pitman arm. For our 4" leaf kit we keep the stock arm due to interferance between the arm and the D side leaf spring at full bump/lock left. Years ago I compared a stock van and a 6" with RSC upgrade. Full lock left, dove them in a complete circle and measured the difference. 1' less with the 6" RSC van. The coil conversion has a better turning radius than both but I haven't measured.

Got it, so if we were to order of turning radius from largest to smallest it would be this - 4"/33" leaf, stock, 6"/35" leaf, and then the 6"/35" coils?

I can live with what I have, just want to make sure it will not be getting any worse when I finally put the front wheels to work.

Jeff
 

fjefman

Member
Run 33's instead of 35's and you're almost to your goal. There are also a few springs you can try that will sit lower but you'll lose bump travel.

MG, thanks for the comments. Is it right to assume this will be roughly a 1:1 relationship? How much more bump travel does this kit provide over stock? What I'm trying to get at here is if I go with the coil conversion and aim for 4" of lift am I still going to have a better performing setup than my current setup with all stock suspension? I get that the word "better" is very subjective, but to me that means tighter turning, less wander/easier to keep in center of lane, better control and bump compliance on rough roads, and less body roll.

I have never, and never plan to go wheeling with any of my 4 wheel vehicles so maximum wheel travel and articulation are not as important to me. I have motorcycles for the rough stuff.

Related to bikes, I'm still getting used to the idea that it is common on these conversions that while geometry is critically important, the spring rates and lengths are a big part of determining the ride height of the vehicle. In the two wheel world the ride height is usually set by geometry changes and the springs are determined mostly by the rate needed to support the weight of the vehicle and the load (with sag usually being a set % of total travel). But then again, there is a whole lot of difference between a 500lb, 1-wheel drive motorcycle with a set of forks in the front and a simple linkage in the back vs a 7500lb+, 2-wheel steer and 4-wheel drive van. Lots to learn.

Jeff
 

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