Unimogadventures - Our build and travel thread

[Iain_U1250]

Dual alternator and aircon

Decided to finally sort out mounting the a/c compressor. All the other systems I have seen either had a substantial bracket to rotate the a/c compressor, or a tensioner pulley. I then had a brainwave - instead of figuring out how to move the a/c compressor to tension the belt, why not use the new alternator as an tensioner pulley - and then run dual belts for the a/c and the 120A alternator, and run the OEM alternator in the stock location.
After a lot of cutting and grinding and a few attempts, I came up with this design ( Mk VI or VII)




I have dual electric fans for the radiator and a/c condenser, and could always do with the extra power - 120A + 55A give me a bit of redundancy as well. Just have to do a bit of rewiring to get the power to the batteries. Next thing is to find some V-belts. I measure it up as a minimum of 1455mm and a maximum of 1495mm - I need something around the 13A1475- 13A1485 mark. Both seem common enough, just to got to get to a parts store next week. I'll run dual belts, as the a/c compressor and the alternator will have a load just about the maximum for one 1/2" belt, and because I can. The last thing will be the tensioner - probably just a bit of flat plate with a slot going from the a/c compressor to the alternator.

 

[Mickldo]

Hi Iain

Great work on the build, as always. I don't get on ExPo much anymore but this thread is one I always check.

You will like those little LED's (Baby Buzzards?), we use them on every truck we build at work. It also looks like you are using the same pancake LED's too, they are a great light too.

How have you mounted the fuses on your batteries? Do you have the fuses just bolted between the battery terminal and the cable? I'd be careful there, I've had a couple fail even when mounted in proper fuse holders. I'd be concerned that vibrations, etc would damage the fuse and I would mount the fuse on proper studs so it would have the best chance of surviving.

Someone else mentioned sand bending pipe using wet sand. That may be OK if you still use a pipe bender but if you cap the ends and heat the pipe as per the old school traditional way of sand bending then you will have a bomb on your hands as the wet sand will turn to steam and expand. If any heat is applied make sure the sand is fully dry. But you said you are using a JD2 bender, good choice. They are a nice bender.

Your build is awesome, very jealous.

Mick

 

[Iain_U1250]

HI Mick - thanks for the heads up on the fuse problems. I looked into fuse blocks for the battery fuses, but could not find an "off the shelf" solution that would work. I'll get some 5mm Bakelite - I think I will make my own fuse block holder to take the vibration load so that the fuses don't come loose or fail.

I also never had any luck with sand bending pipes - the JD2 Model 32 bender works great, easy to use and very accurate.

Hi Iain
Great work on the build, as always. I don't get on ExPo much anymore but this thread is one I always check.

You will like those little LED's (Baby Buzzards?), we use them on every truck we build at work. It also looks like you are using the same pancake LED's too, they are a great light too.

How have you mounted the fuses on your batteries? Do you have the fuses just bolted between the battery terminal and the cable? I'd be careful there, I've had a couple fail even when mounted in proper fuse holders. I'd be concerned that vibrations, etc would damage the fuse and I would mount the fuse on proper studs so it would have the best chance of surviving.

Someone else mentioned sand bending pipe using wet sand. That may be OK if you still use a pipe bender but if you cap the ends and heat the pipe as per the old school traditional way of sand bending then you will have a bomb on your hands as the wet sand will turn to steam and expand. If any heat is applied make sure the sand is fully dry. But you said you are using a JD2 bender, good choice. They are a nice bender.

Your build is awesome, very jealous.

Mick

 

[Mickldo]

We normally use either BEP or Bussman fuse holders. If you have the room I'd go for the BEP one every time but if you are tight for room the Bussman will do.

I did use a Projecta combo battery terminal/fuseblock on my 100 series. It looked good in the catalogue but it was the one the caused me to have problems with the fuses falling apart due to vibrations. I think it had too much flex in it.

I like the idea of making your own from Bakelite. That should get it strong enough to survive the vibrations.

HI Mick - thanks for the heads up on the fuse problems. I looked into fuse blocks for the battery fuses, but could not find an "off the shelf" solution that would work. I'll get some 5mm Bakelite - I think I will make my own fuse block holder to take the vibration load so that the fuses don't come loose or fail.

I also never had any luck with sand bending pipes - the JD2 Model 32 bender works great, easy to use and very accurate.

 

[Iain_U1250]

Hi Mick, just did a bit of searching and found these battery terminal fuses - anyone used them?




http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/002c/0900766b8002caaf.pdf

 

[mervifwdc]

They do look good, nice and simple. As to how good they are....

 

[Iain_U1250]

Time for another update whilst the next coat of paint dries.

First up, the inverter has arrived - I went with a Latronic 1500w LS-1512 - specs are here: http://www.latronics.com.au/products/stand-alone-inverter-ls-series-500-1800w


In short - 1500w continuous, 1600W for 1/2 hour and 4500w for 5 seconds. It is a true sine wave inverter and I had it "ruggedised" as well. It fits under the sink - and will have feed an Australian style plug socket on the inside of the camper. The main use is expected to be my wife's hair dryer, and the breadmaker, and then other smaller things like camera batteries and chargers.


The next thing to be done was the roof rack/tropical roof insert. This is a 3.3m x 1.2m sheet of plywood. it is a bit heavy to lift up and down, so I made a template and used that to get the dimensions and market the locations of each of the supports.

After trimming to the right size, then began the painting: I used a paint system used for yachts - first off 2 coats of International Everdure,





then 4 coats of International Interprotect, then two coats of a two pack polyurethane, and finally a layer of the UPol Raptor bed liner on the top surface.




Needless to say this took a while, and there is a minimum drying time between each coat and paint system - it took almost two weeks before the final coat went on, with one or two coats each day.


Thanks to a thread on Expo, I found a low profile water "u" trap replacement for the shower and the sink connection to the grey water tank. Quite an ingenious device - the tube inside prevents the water sloshing back up, whist still providing an easy flow. It is available here: http://www.northcoach.com.au/products/HepVo-Waterless-Trap.html



I only need 150mm from the underside of the floor to the grey water tank - just enough space for the automatic step I need to have.




Whilst the paint on tropical roof was drying, i painted the roof of the camper itself with "Barrier Shield 2000 - a special heat reflective paint, if it works as good as the claims and testimonials, then it would be like adding an extra 50mm of fibreglass insulation to the camper. http://www.australianpaints.com.au/?page_id=82





Whist all this paint was drying, I started on the electrics and the control panel. I'm using Blue Sea marine switch panels, Two Sunsaver duo solar regulators, one for the panels on the roof, and a second for the panels that will be positioned out in the sun. Each is rated at 25A, and keeping with "dual redundant" philosophy, I each would just about have enough capacity ( 25A) for all the panels by itself. The three holes are for 12V socket outlets. The centre cut out is for the NASA Marine Instruments -Clipper BM2 Battery monitor. That should tell me current draw and how long the batteries will last. http://www.nasamarine.com/proddetail.php?prod=BM2&cat=15






An this is the nest of wires I need to attach to the the control panel. The main power lead is split into two x 50A fused supplies, one for each switch panel.



Whilst I was in the mood for wiring stuff up, I also fitted the reading lights to the wood plinths.



This what they look like installed above the seats.



Finally - since the Mog is not ready, and it's time for another trip "outback" - I decide to buy a Safety Devices roll cage for my Land Rover - this is the "before" shot I also got two Ashcroft limited slip lockers and Maxidrive axles, all will be fitted before our next trip to Diamantina Lakes, Cameron's Corner and Katherine Gorge via the "Savannah way" - about a 10,000km trip in early October.

 

[smontic]

The long weekend has given me an opportunity to do some more work on the truck, to date it has been rather slow going since I went back to work, with most of the work being small jobs I can finish in an evening or weekend.

This being a four day long weekend I got time to do a bit more. I fetched the centre roof panel on Friday morning early, and then spent the rest of the day checking the wiring diagrams, fitting a few more cables into the conduits as one the roof goes in, there will be next to no chance that I can get any more wires inside. I also sorted out the last bits of insulation in the roof, to ensure that we keep the heat in or out.

After sanding, cleaning and priming the supports, it was time to bring in the panel - it just fits in from the front. About three years ago I planned to fit this panel in through the front - so it was good that it fitted. The original plan was not to have a rear window so we could put the spare tyre on the back, but early on we decided we liked the idea of having windows on all three sides of the bed, so the full width rear window went in and the spare goes on the roof.


View attachment 95408

The "bump" in the roof is a recess I decided to fit to create a bit of extra headroom over the main walkway, Its only 50mm ( 2") but it makes a big difference, creating a nice feature as well.

Sliding it in as easy, the panel, despite being 3.3m long and 1.2m wide, it only weighs around 13kg. I used the blankets to protect the paintwork on both the truck and wood insert. Then it was a case of fitting the roof panel and holding it in place - Using the every sort of prop I have to hold it in place, the panel is finally in.

View attachment 95412


With the interior full or props, I decide to finish the starting battery box. It has taken a long time to find a good position for it, so many thing to consider, security - a big truck battery is a nice target for thieves, - having the heavy weight of a big battery hanging off the side of a truck - the Optima 31A weighs 27kg, so the box has to be a substantial structure and have a decent strap to tie it down. I have to find a space on the chassis rail that has decent mounting points and then the normal things for a battery box, fully lined with plastic to prevent shorts, vents, drain holes in case any water gets in etc.

After making quite a few cardboard prototypes, I finally found a place for it, and got some steel bent up during the week and after spending the day at the beach yesterday, after dinner I decided to spend a few hours working on the battery box - I was making good progress, so I just carried on working - and completely lost track of time. At 2:00am I got a call from the missus, wondering where I was. I decided that it would be enough for the night.

View attachment 95409

After the Easter Bunny has delivered the load of chocolate ( I got a quite a few myself) I decided to put the sugar high to good use and work and finished it off in a few hours. I decided to fit an isolation switch, not sure how many amps the reduction gear starter motor draws, but I fitted a 1000A Hella switch I got off fleabay for a good price. I welded a tag on the side of the box so that I can put a pin or something through the handle of the switch to keep it in place.

View attachment 95410

This is what it looks like in position, getting the heavy battery in and out with the box in place is not easy, the thing is damn heavy. Anyone trying to steal it will need a few muscles as there is not much space, still after getting it in and out 6 or 7 times this afternoon to check the fitting etc, I know it is possible you just need to be able to curl 27kgs with one hand

View attachment 95411

Hi Iain, I don't Understand very well. Where did you put the second battery for the starter engine? In your fantastic box there is space only for one Optima 31A.
Thanks
Simone

 

[Iain_U1250]

Hi Simone, YOu are correct, the box only fits one Optima (it's big enough for a longer one if necessary) but since my truck runs 12v, I only need one battery not the two like you need for yours.

I have 4 Optima 31T as "house batteries" in two boxes under the floor, and my fit another two into the rear storage pods behind the rear wheel if I find I need more battery power in the future.

 

[smontic]

Hi Simone, YOu are correct, the box only fits one Optima (it's big enough for a longer one if necessary) but since my truck runs 12v, I only need one battery not the two like you need for yours.

I have 4 Optima 31T as "house batteries" in two boxes under the floor, and my fit another two into the rear storage pods behind the rear wheel if I find I need more battery power in the future.

Oh! Now I understand!
I'm trying to modify the position of my battery box because I want to mount a bigger fuel tank on the righ side of the truck... but I need space!!!

 

[Iain_U1250]

Progress at last

It has been a long time since a progress report - my wife has had a few health issues that became more important, but she is back on the mend and it is now more important to finish the truck so we can get on the road. She has a few more years of treatment left before we can start our round the world trip, but we can travel Australia for a while and once she gets the all clear, we will head off. In between operations we took a few weeks off and did a 9,500km trip in remote Queensland and the Northern Territory - and spent a fair about of time getting the Defender prepared for it fitting a roll cage, extra water tanks, new roof rack and roof top tent. I'll do a special post with some photos of the trip after this one - no Unimog, but a great trip and something we both needed.


First off I have wired up the control panel - this includes two solar regulators, a battery monitor, the switch panels, 12v accessory plugs and a twin USB power point.



The table arrived and looks great and more importantly - works well. The table swivels around the wall support, and since it is offset, there are a number o different positions you can move it into - the motion is smooth and easy - won't spill anything on the table unless you hit something. The table clamps quite nicely into position using two handles underneath, which can be folder up so you don't bang your knees

This is in the two person position. One advantage for having the two seats next to each other is so that we can discuss maps and plans together. The table is not as stable as a fixed leg - it deflects a bit if you lean on it, "steak cutting pressure" does not affect it much, but it does move when you put your elbows on the table



This is in the night time position - it is out of the way, but still provides a useful surface for stuff.




This is the most stable position, and it also gives the person in the seat closest free access to come and go.



This will be the "travelling" position, I'll make something to strap it to the wall, to stop it from banging over rough ground.




I've at last gotten time to do a bit of work on my truck - first of is fitting the Webasto 90ST diesel powered water heater/engine preheater - it is just in front of the left hand wheel arch, behind the grill. It is one of the lower places on the truck, but still 4ft of the ground - I'll make up a box to protect it from underneath, and I will have a solid panel behind the grill. I'll start running the hoses and tubing to do all the connections to the hot water tank and the two space heaters.



I also fitted the 240V inverter - 1600W and it's main function is to power my wife's hair dryer - and thing like kettles, camera battery chargers etc are secondary. Below that is a 25A battery charger for "shore power" I'll fit a hatch into the side door to feed in the power - the water heater also runs off 240v so we won't have to start the truck or diesel furnace to get hot water for a shower if we are parked up at a camp site with power.



Behind the seats is more storage - you have to power the seats forward to access it - ( the seats still have electric motors). The capacity is quite decent - and fairly secure since I can switch off the motors and that will make it difficult to access - the seats have a solid steel back, and when they are upright you can't see the storage compartment.




Finally I fitted the under seat drawer - this is the main food storage compartment - it has two positions, the first compartment is accessible with the table in place. We will line the drawer - probably with a soft carpet or something - we want to limit the rattles. We have some self inflating pillows that we used in our storage boxes in the Land Rover - just squash all the air out and then put them in place flat - they expand to fill voids of about 2". The second position requires the table to be removed. I am planning on putting a lock on it to limit access to this part of the drawer - this will probably be for thing we don't use that often, and for more valuable stuff when we are away from the truck.



The bedside lockers are also fitted - gives an nice ledge around the bed, and more storage as well. The bed is really comfortable - better than the one at home.



There has also been a fair bit of "behind the scenes" work - I've also done a lot of the heavy duty wiring, fitted the LED lights on the roof of the camper - there are two each side, and they light up and area about 5m from the camper. The switches are located next to the door, so we can switch them on without having to climb into the truck. The battery isolator that can switch off both banks or either one, and also direct the battery charge to either bank or both banks. The solar panels are wired up - and even inside the shed, the skylight in the roof allows in enough light to give me around 0.5A of charge, so the truck is now "live"

 

[Iain_U1250]

Outback trip

Here are a few photos from out recent trip. Our route was Brisbane to Diamantina Lakes, then off to Katherine Gorge and Mataranka, the across the Savannah Way to Burketown and Normanton, then on to Bowen for a swim in the sea, then back home to Brisbane.


On the way to Diamantina Lakes National park - this was the scenery for about 100km - weather was a bit on the warm side - the Scangauge on the Land rover was reading the intake air temp at 58 degrees.



There were a lot of flies at Diamantina lakes, so we got the room out for the awning and set-up camp in there during the day, that's when we were not swimming in the liquid mud lake to stay cool.



We took our inflatable canoe (5.5m Grand Argus) with a little 2.3HP Honda outboard with us - this enabled us to travel far up river where most people can't.



We walked up the massive sand dunes in the National Park - that's our Land Rover down below - we did this early in the morning, that day if hit 49 degree outside - aircon on the Land Rover works great



We pulled off the road onto a side track for a bit of tea on a regular basis - 5 minutes to set-up and get the water one.



Catherine Gorge was great - very hot though -45 degrees that afternoon. We ended up walking down in the dark because we spent too much time cooling off in the water. (We always carry a torch or two)



A bit too many "Hungry Handbags" in the rivers along the Savannah Way for a swim or to take the "deflatable " boat out.



Looks inviting - but that ripple in the middle was a crocodile.



This is our normal camping set-up, great for fine weather camping, but we both thought it would have been so much better in the Unimog. One good thing about camping is that you get to know what you can and can't do without. Being able to park up and be ready for bed quickly is important - and being able to set up at night under lights is sometimes a necessity. A couple of time we decided to press on down the road and bush camp rather that stay at a campsite with other people. Taking a trip up around the top half of Australia in mid late October is highly recommended, if you can hand 40 degree days, and it seems most people can't and the moment the temps start of get into the upper thirties, all the "Grey Nomads" head down south for cooler weather, and the tourists also keep away. We only shared a campsite for 7 of the 16 days we were away.



We took over 8000 photos on our trip and hours of video - looking at them just makes us want to go back out there, but in the Unimog.

 

[bianchi]

looks like a great trip into the bush,i can't wait to see the mog finished and on the track,keep up the good work

cheers

Dave

 

[Google it Research]

What incredible project. I look toward to seeing it complete.

 

[Overland Hadley]

Any recent progress on the Mog?


Your Outback trip looks fantastic, even if it was not in the big rig.