Willman's 2001 Tacoma

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
DSCF1051.jpg
By the by, with that "Insta-Grip" hose or it's equals (FC332 in Aeroquip) and the correct hose end fittings the clamp actually does damage rather than add robustness. It does appear that those fittings in the pic are std barbed fittings. The "Push-Loc" (Parker)/"Barb-tite" (Weatherhead)/etc. hose ends have a tall enough barb that putting a clamp over them cuts the inner surface of the hose. Using those fittings, the clampless assembly is good to 250-300 psi (depending actual hose & hose size) @ 300*f. The hose is constructed with a "chinese finger trap" internal braid so that to get it over the barbs the hose has to be expanded, and once on the fitting has to be cut off.
 

Willman

Active member
flyingwil said:
Yup too close to the compressor... looks like you need to move it further away from the compressor.

extremeaireinstall.gif

Problem solved.........kinda ya?????

Wil.......What do you think about Scott's setup.........If i put the stock fitting back on........do you think i will have that problem again?????......I would like to follow Scott's great example with an air coupler in the bed area.....

If i follow the plan above and try to run a "T" with a coupler in the bed.......That will not work with the check valve (CV) and having the pressure behind the CV......If i go to use the coupler in my bed......It will have no air supply if you know what i mean due to where the CV is located....

:)
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Put the coupler & the 'T' downstream of the check valve.

hose > fitting > Check > 'T' > tank
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
You can do it... just move the check valve back to the tank back here:
DSC03168.jpg


By running your bumper as a tank your compressor runs longer than Scott's would, thus your issue.


EDIT:

The check valve installs into air tank from compressor line and keeps compressed air from the tank from bleeding back into the compressor cylinder head.
 

Willman

Active member
Thanks guys for the replies!

flyingwil said:
By running your bumper as a tank your compressor runs longer than Scott's would, thus your issue.

Thinking about this.......I'm sure Scott has ran his compressor for longer times than i have airing up those 295's! You would think he would have the same problem.....Just my 2 cents......
 

Scott Brady

Founder
Check valve too close and possibly tightened too deep, resulting in overheating and damage. Convection is the killer, so even 1" of additional distance can make a big difference.

I have run my compressor for over one hour without issue. Works great.
 

erin

Explorer
Willman, look great. I was wondering if the quick connects are as exposed on the underside of the bumper as they appear in the photos? Maybe a 2" 3/16" strip of steel from the under side of the bumper back to protect them in case of a bumper drag?
 

Willman

Active member
erin said:
Willman, look great. I was wondering if the quick connects are as exposed on the underside of the bumper as they appear in the photos? Maybe a 2" 3/16" strip of steel from the under side of the bumper back to protect them in case of a bumper drag?

That has crossed my mind.....Thanks for the input......That is a must living around here with all the red rocks!!!

DSC03168.jpg


:)
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Better would be to not use the bumper that way. There are some inexpensive reservoir options on McMaster's online catalog page 915.
This subject tends to provoke passionate responses, so I'll leave it at that.
 

OldSven

Explorer
ntsqd said:
Better would be to not use the bumper that way. There are some inexpensive reservoir options on McMaster's online catalog page 915.
This subject tends to provoke passionate responses, so I'll leave it at that.
:confused:
 

flyingwil

Supporting Sponsor - Sierra Expeditions
OldSven said:

There are arguments that a possible explosion may result due to the pressure. I think there was a Jeep prototype (Tabasco or SAR Jeep TJ or similar) that had the same idea... the thought was scrapped due to this fear to my recollection.
 

Willman

Active member
No worries here guys..........

The tank is kept around town with on air in it.....But after a trail run......flip a switch and i got air!!!!! After filling my tires...the tank get drained........Simple and easy way to get the job done without a 4 gal. tank taking up valuable space!

:)
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I intended to not take this any further, but I can see that I need to elaborate at least a little.
The way I see it, air tanks are round with rounded ends for very good reasons. When compressed anything became possible people learned a lot about why tanks failed. Usually from disastrous and occasionally from deadly events.
At 125 psi you're *just* at the pressure where the various compressed gas regulations, stds, & codes (DOT, ASME, SAE, etc.) take effect. To my knowledge none of those bless a flat sided/ended tank.

A balloon doesn't take on the shape it does by chance. Pump up a flat capped square or rectangular steel tube and it too will want to take on the balloon shape. Even if the pressure isn't high enough for it to actually take that shape, it's still trying to do so. That puts a lot of stress in the tube corners and in the cap welds.

To me the convenience just isn't worth the potential catastrophe.
With that, I'll let it go.
 

Willman

Active member
ntsqd said:
I intended to not take this any further, but I can see that I need to elaborate at least a little.
The way I see it, air tanks are round with rounded ends for very good reasons. When compressed anything became possible people learned a lot about why tanks failed. Usually from disastrous and occasionally from deadly events.
At 125 psi you're *just* at the pressure where the various compressed gas regulations, stds, & codes (DOT, ASME, SAE, etc.) take effect. To my knowledge none of those bless a flat sided/ended tank.

A balloon doesn't take on the shape it does by chance. Pump up a flat capped square or rectangular steel tube and it too will want to take on the balloon shape. Even if the pressure isn't high enough for it to actually take that shape, it's still trying to do so. That puts a lot of stress in the tube corners and in the cap welds.

To me the convenience just isn't worth the potential catastrophe.
With that, I'll let it go.

Thanks for your two cents. You bring great knowledge to this forum.....

Like i said in my above post.......This tank is only in use for the length it takes to get the job done in the back-country then drained.

You bring up a good point on the shape of the tank.......My tank only goes to 150 psi.......With the whole bumper and the end caps welded up solid with 3/16" steel......i see no problems.......If i was putting a lot more pressure....then it would make me worry.......

All in all........Like you said.......I too am letting this subject go! Thanks for the heads up on the subject!

:)
 

Willman

Active member
Last edited:

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