Offroad capability of full size truck

[reverse01134]

The more I explore this forum, the more I'm astonished by the depth of knowledge being shared here. You guys are truly devoted to the same interest and I love it.

The idea of a 3/4 ton truck was initially overwhelming given that the Gladiator is the largest vehicle I've owned, I felt like this size truck is way over my head. But the more I think, it makes complete sense. The whole point of this plan was to gain space. To get my priorities straight, a 3/4-ton seems to be the answer.

Thank you @Todd n Natalie for providing me with suggestions on specific options in the build sheet. I've been running builds on the websites considering options between 250 vs. 350 and different automakers. I'm curious if deleting the bed and installing the camper will interfere or disable the 360 cameras. If there's a way to make the cameras work with the camper, it would be super helpful when maneuvering that giant truck into tight spaces like crowded parking lots.

Something just crossed my mind - I want an 8ft long camper, but does that necessarily mean I need an 8ft bed truck?? I was planning to add a rear angle to the camper to help the departure angle. That means the base floor/subframe is going to be shorter than 8ft and perhaps, I just need 6.75ft truck! If this works, I can get a supercab while retaining almost the same wheelbase! I'm thinking, why didn't I figure this out sooner lol. Do you guys see any flaws with this theory?

 

[ThundahBeagle]

Looks like I missed a few new posts while typing up my previous post. I think I got the answer on the payload... 2500 will give a good power to handle 1500 lbs without feeling the weight is there.

If it hasn't already been said outright, a half ton truck will likely be AT its listed limit at 1700 pounds in the bed. So if your camper is 1500 and you weight, say, 200, then you are done.

3/4 ton will carry in the area of 4,000 payload, so 1500 will be a breeze

 

[Pacific Northwest yetti]

Camera Source | Backup Cameras, Rear View Camera Systems, & Accessories - Camera Source Backup Cameras

We have a wide selection of backup cameras, front and side cameras, 3rd brake light cameras, and both wired and wireless camera systems for your car or truck

www.camerasource.com

Is a great resource for camera relocate kits. Should be doable.

 

[PirateMcGee]

The more I explore this forum, the more I'm astonished by the depth of knowledge being shared here. You guys are truly devoted to the same interest and I love it.

The idea of a 3/4 ton truck was initially overwhelming given that the Gladiator is the largest vehicle I've owned, I felt like this size truck is way over my head. But the more I think, it makes complete sense. The whole point of this plan was to gain space. To get my priorities straight, a 3/4-ton seems to be the answer.

Thank you @Todd n Natalie for providing me with suggestions on specific options in the build sheet. I've been running builds on the websites considering options between 250 vs. 350 and different automakers. I'm curious if deleting the bed and installing the camper will interfere or disable the 360 cameras. If there's a way to make the cameras work with the camper, it would be super helpful when maneuvering that giant truck into tight spaces like crowded parking lots.

Something just crossed my mind - I want an 8ft long camper, but does that necessarily mean I need an 8ft bed truck?? I was planning to add a rear angle to the camper to help the departure angle. That means the base floor/subframe is going to be shorter than 8ft and perhaps, I just need 6.75ft truck! If this works, I can get a supercab while retaining almost the same wheelbase! I'm thinking, why didn't I figure this out sooner lol. Do you guys see any flaws with this theory?

View attachment 813558

Only suggestion I have is to go for an extended cab over. The room will be appreciated.

 

[greengreer]

The more I explore this forum, the more I'm astonished by the depth of knowledge being shared here. You guys are truly devoted to the same interest and I love it.

The idea of a 3/4 ton truck was initially overwhelming given that the Gladiator is the largest vehicle I've owned, I felt like this size truck is way over my head. But the more I think, it makes complete sense. The whole point of this plan was to gain space. To get my priorities straight, a 3/4-ton seems to be the answer.

Thank you @Todd n Natalie for providing me with suggestions on specific options in the build sheet. I've been running builds on the websites considering options between 250 vs. 350 and different automakers. I'm curious if deleting the bed and installing the camper will interfere or disable the 360 cameras. If there's a way to make the cameras work with the camper, it would be super helpful when maneuvering that giant truck into tight spaces like crowded parking lots.

Something just crossed my mind - I want an 8ft long camper, but does that necessarily mean I need an 8ft bed truck?? I was planning to add a rear angle to the camper to help the departure angle. That means the base floor/subframe is going to be shorter than 8ft and perhaps, I just need 6.75ft truck! If this works, I can get a supercab while retaining almost the same wheelbase! I'm thinking, why didn't I figure this out sooner lol. Do you guys see any flaws with this theory?

View attachment 813558

The supercab short bed is a great combo. U-turns are no big deal, switchbacks are 3 pointers rather than the Austin Powers wiggle. You can parallel park in town, etc. One of the biggest reasons for us to go with the f-350 was the slightly longer (short) bed and the supercab. We don't need a full 4 doors (just dogs riding back there most of the time) and didn't want the extra wheelbase.

Our camper is an 8' model but built for a short bed. Only hangs past the bumper a few inches. So far we have not found any issues with departure angle of the camper, but I have drug the hitch mounted steps a few times but have also drug the hitch sans camper so not much difference there.

I think the biggest issue will be COG and putting some weight on the steer axle. Batteries, water tank, etc all need to go right behind the cab. Ours has a pretty large cabover area that certainly puts weight up front.

As for capability, these bigger pickups do pretty well. The factory locker is great, and ditching the sway bar helps let the front end move freely. Having 2k lbs in the bed makes them pretty 'point & shoot' in 2wd. It's a slow ride on the rough roads though, lots of weight to shift around, tree branches to watch for, and hoping that your cabinets don't get completely scrambled.

 

[phsycle]

The more I explore this forum, the more I'm astonished by the depth of knowledge being shared here. You guys are truly devoted to the same interest and I love it.

The idea of a 3/4 ton truck was initially overwhelming given that the Gladiator is the largest vehicle I've owned, I felt like this size truck is way over my head. But the more I think, it makes complete sense. The whole point of this plan was to gain space. To get my priorities straight, a 3/4-ton seems to be the answer.

Thank you @Todd n Natalie for providing me with suggestions on specific options in the build sheet. I've been running builds on the websites considering options between 250 vs. 350 and different automakers. I'm curious if deleting the bed and installing the camper will interfere or disable the 360 cameras. If there's a way to make the cameras work with the camper, it would be super helpful when maneuvering that giant truck into tight spaces like crowded parking lots.

Something just crossed my mind - I want an 8ft long camper, but does that necessarily mean I need an 8ft bed truck?? I was planning to add a rear angle to the camper to help the departure angle. That means the base floor/subframe is going to be shorter than 8ft and perhaps, I just need 6.75ft truck! If this works, I can get a supercab while retaining almost the same wheelbase! I'm thinking, why didn't I figure this out sooner lol. Do you guys see any flaws with this theory?

View attachment 813558

Sounds like that would work. But man, for a first full-size truck, and camper, seems like a ton of money and time.
Personally, I’d get the truck, get a (used?) FWC slide-in and try that out for a year. Then get a custom at that point, if that’s even what you want at that point.

 

[reverse01134]

If it hasn't already been said outright, a half ton truck will likely be AT its listed limit at 1700 pounds in the bed. So if your camper is 1500 and you weight, say, 200, then you are done.

3/4 ton will carry in the area of 4,000 payload, so 1500 will be a breeze

I may've made a confusing comment. When I said 2500 I meant Ford F250 / Ram 2500.

Camera Source | Backup Cameras, Rear View Camera Systems, & Accessories - Camera Source Backup Cameras

We have a wide selection of backup cameras, front and side cameras, 3rd brake light cameras, and both wired and wireless camera systems for your car or truck

www.camerasource.com

Is a great resource for camera relocate kits. Should be doable.

Good info! I will look into it.

Sounds like that would work. But man, for a first full-size truck, and camper, seems like a ton of money and time.
Personally, I’d get the truck, get a (used?) FWC slide-in and try that out for a year. Then get a custom at that point, if that’s even what you want at that point.

I thought you guys were telling me to go big or go home! 😁 I'm just kidding. I welcome second thoughts like this. It's a good opportunity to revisit things that I might've missed. I am debating whether I should get a new truck or a used one. As far as the custom camper, my plan is to find an aluminum fabricator to weld the aluminum tubing to build the camper shell and do the rest of the work myself.
If you take a look at the drawings I posted in this thread, my design is relatively simple. It's basically a 6'x8'x5' box with a pop-up roof. There are tons of DIY videos on YouTube about building overland trailers and truck toppers with a wedge-style pop-up roof. I like the idea of using aluminum extrusion for the pop-up roof, and I might borrow that concept. The T-slots will be a convenient place to install brackets for an awning and other gear, like traction boards on the roof.

It's going to be a big project, though. After some research on this forum, it doesn't seem too complicated to hard-mount a camper on a fully boxed frame, as long as the shell is structurally robust. That's where I need to do a lot of study and maybe even seek some professional engineering services. I think the total cost of building the camper wouldn't look that bad unless I end up scrapping tons of materials

 

[PirateMcGee]

DIY is a huge time sink and may not produce the results you want. I'm pretty pro diy but building an entire camper is a ton of work. I don't really see any major advantage given the options that exist right now.

Blended approach might be a custom flatbed with an ovrlnd camper.

 

[reverse01134]

DIY is a huge time sink and may not produce the results you want. I'm pretty pro diy but building an entire camper is a ton of work. I don't really see any major advantage given the options that exist right now.

Blended approach might be a custom flatbed with an ovrlnd camper.

I completely agree with you, and that's my exact concern: Will I get satisfying results? I did a complete remodel of a 60 year old fixer-upper myself (except for the roof) and I know this for sure - things never work out as planned and there are always surprises no matter how much you prepare. With that said, I will commit to the full DIY plan for the camper ONLY if I am 100% confident after thoroughly reviewing every single detail of the entire process from start to finish. If anything proves to be beyond my capabilities, Plan B will be the blended approach, as you mentioned - a custom flatbed with stock bed height and a slide-in camper, something like this: (Though I'm still scratching my head - how did he put all that weight on a Tacoma??)

 

[tacollie]

The more I explore this forum, the more I'm astonished by the depth of knowledge being shared here. You guys are truly devoted to the same interest and I love it.

The idea of a 3/4 ton truck was initially overwhelming given that the Gladiator is the largest vehicle I've owned, I felt like this size truck is way over my head. But the more I think, it makes complete sense. The whole point of this plan was to gain space. To get my priorities straight, a 3/4-ton seems to be the answer.

Thank you @Todd n Natalie for providing me with suggestions on specific options in the build sheet. I've been running builds on the websites considering options between 250 vs. 350 and different automakers. I'm curious if deleting the bed and installing the camper will interfere or disable the 360 cameras. If there's a way to make the cameras work with the camper, it would be super helpful when maneuvering that giant truck into tight spaces like crowded parking lots.

Something just crossed my mind - I want an 8ft long camper, but does that necessarily mean I need an 8ft bed truck?? I was planning to add a rear angle to the camper to help the departure angle. That means the base floor/subframe is going to be shorter than 8ft and perhaps, I just need 6.75ft truck! If this works, I can get a supercab while retaining almost the same wheelbase! I'm thinking, why didn't I figure this out sooner lol. Do you guys see any flaws with this theory?

View attachment 813558

That will work. It's the route I would choose if I were you. Try to keep the center off gravity as far forward as possible. Ideally it would be in front of the rear axle. I think you can stay below 1500lbs dry but loaded up I would bet it'll be higher.

We really l like it F250. It has almost 3500lbs of payload with me in it. Unloaded they ride rough. Loaded up it handles and rides very good even when the suspension was stock. It took a little bit to get familiar with the size but it was actually fun after driving mid size trucks for 20 years.

 

[rruff]

After some research on this forum, it doesn't seem too complicated to hard-mount a camper on a fully boxed frame, as long as the shell is structurally robust. That's where I need to do a lot of study and maybe even seek some professional engineering services. I think the total cost of building the camper wouldn't look that bad unless I end up scrapping tons of materials

The big advantage of the fully boxed frame is that you don't need engineering!

We tend to overthink things here, which makes sense... but people have been tying down campers on very flexy frames for many decades and it seems to work. The trick is to *not* make them too robust! But with a fully boxed frame there is nothing to worry about. I think it's still good to use cab isolators, but otherwise firmly attach the camper. The camper still doesn't need to be very robust.

Note... the cab-chassis truck models are not boxed-frame. Get one with a bed, then sell the bed if you don't need it.

Panels with fiberglass composite skins with foam core are the way to go for the camper. Simple to build and insulation is very good.

Yes, you can make your camper 8' on a ~6.5' bed. Here is one example that I like the look of. One nice thing about making the bed for a slide in, is that you can easily trade the camper. It gives you more external storage also, if you will be mostly outside.


Same bed on an supercab or whatever Ford calls it:

 

[phsycle]

(Though I'm still scratching my head - how did he put all that weight on a Tacoma??)

You must be new here. Overloading Builds are aplenty here.

 

[Todd780]

Sounds like that would work. But man, for a first full-size truck, and camper, seems like a ton of money and time.
Personally, I’d get the truck, get a (used?) FWC slide-in and try that out for a year. Then get a custom at that point, if that’s even what you want at that point.

This. To start I would just get a pop up camper. Flatbed would be quite the adds a lot of time and expense if it turns out not to be required. That dough would be better spent enjoying the outdoors if you ask me...

A whole DIY could take a long time. Up to you though. If it were me, I'd rather buy something and go enjoy the outdoors vs being stuck at home working in my garage. But that just me. I've seen builds here that take years. That's a lot of time at home that could be spent having adventures.

If you don't keep the bed it could narrow down your prospective buyers should you choose to sell the truck down the road. You know the old expression.... K.I.S.S.

DIY is a huge time sink and may not produce the results you want. I'm pretty pro diy but building an entire camper is a ton of work. I don't really see any major advantage given the options that exist right now.

Blended approach might be a custom flatbed with an ovrlnd camper.

Yep. Agreed. To each their own and everyone needs to assess their own priorities I guess. Many enjoy the build process.
I did when I was younger. Not so much anymore.

Our Indiana sourced bucket of loose screws seems to suit us just fine for what we want to do.

 

[Dirt Rider]

There are size limitations with trees and boulders, but they have advantages going over obstacles.

 

[COAKXterra]

I’m not shy with taking our Power Wagon out on the stuff it’s capable of. That’s why we bought it, and knowingly took the obvious and glaring payload loss. But we wanted the crew cab (2 adults plus a tiny human and not tiny dog) and the capability vs payload and putting a camper on it full time (we did experiment with an AT Habitat). We tend to tent camp at the moment, so…. Canopy and fridge and camping/hiking gear is really all we need. We sit a couple hundred below rated payload when set up to head out for a week.

If I was putting a camper on, I’d be going for the 2500 rebel. I like the fit and finish of the rams, and despite its insatiable thirst, the hemi works well for our needs.