2021 RAM 3500 Tradesman | AEV Prospector | FWC Grandby

[ramblinChet]

My primary goal in designing my on-board air system was to create a fast and reliable solution for inflating tires to appropriate pressures when transitioning from off-road to on-road. The difference between a 10-15 minute inflation time and the more common 20-30 minutes is significant, especially when trails demand multiple transitions in a single day. To optimize this process, I mounted Milton HIGHFLOWPRO V-style brass couplers on both sides of my vehicle, between the cab and camper, allowing me to connect to the driver’s side, inflate both tires, then repeat on the passenger side. I sourced 3.5x3.5x3.5-inch aluminum brackets and secured them to the base of my aluminum RotopaX carriers.


To centralize the air system accessories, I mounted a Milton Safety Blow Gun with a 10-inch extension on the rear wall of my camper, adjacent to the air system. I used three spring clip holders for mounting, and it remains to be seen whether these clips will securely retain the blow gun on rough trails.


The next phase involved transferring pressurized air from inside the camper to the external brass couplers. I applied masking tape to mark measurements, transferring precise data to ensure accuracy. My objective was to drill a 24mm hole through the aluminum base of the air compressor mount and a horizontal camper surface while avoiding a 3/4-inch-thick blind vertical wall. The hole needed to be close to the wall without contacting it. Through meticulous, repeated measurements, I achieved satisfactory results. A high-temperature silicone rubber grommet was installed in the hole to protect the air line, as shown in the accompanying image.


While inspecting the engine compartment, I noted significant dirt accumulation, prompting a thorough cleaning before my next trip. I installed a Victron Energy MEGA Fuse Holder to power a Victron Energy Orion XS 50-amp DC-DC charger, which charges my house batteries while driving. Based on my calculations, Ancor 4 AWG wire was suitable for this application. The RAM's High Amperage Power Point (HAPP), an M8 stud on the battery rated for 300 amps, facilitates this connection, located on the driver’s side within the power bus.


Recently, I noticed a soft grinding noise from the front of my truck at 15-25 mph, louder during left turns and quieter during right turns. Despite my hearing challenges from past exposure to helicopters and machine guns, and my habit of driving with windows down and radio on, I suspected the passenger-side hub assembly (wheel bearing) was failing. After driving briefly and stopping in a parking lot, I confirmed the passenger-side hub was significantly hotter than the driver’s side. On a 95°F day, the driver’s side was hot (approximately 110°F, touchable for 5-10 seconds), while the passenger side was very hot (approximately 120°F, touchable for 1-3 seconds). Using a Fluke 87V-MAX multimeter and Type-K thermocouple, I measured the temperatures, confirming the passenger-side hub assembly failure.


With my time in Virginia nearing an end and a strong desire to return west, I enlisted my son’s expertise to replace the faulty hub assembly. After jacking up the truck, we confirmed significant play in the passenger-side wheel by shaking it at the 3 and 9 o’clock and 6 and 12 o’clock positions, compared to the driver’s side. Within an hour, the repair was complete, and I drove away satisfied, grateful for my son’s skillful assistance.


Approaching 100,000 miles on my AEV Prospector, I am planning long-term preventative maintenance, including replacing transmission and transfer case fluid, flushing engine coolant, and checking brake fluid. Using test strips from Phoenix Systems, I measured copper contamination in the brake fluid at 30-100 ppm, indicating no immediate need for a flush. Additionally, I plan to test the brake fluid’s moisture content, as brake fluid is hygroscopic, and increased moisture lowers the boiling point, reducing braking performance and causing corrosion. In my superbike racing days, I flushed brake systems between races to ensure optimal performance.


For historical purposes, I have documented the expenses associated with this work.


The AEV Prospector’s steering knuckle, drag link, and track bar, part of AEV’s High Steer Kit, are custom-engineered components that address longstanding aftermarket suspension challenges. Few companies possess the engineering expertise, OEM connections, and resources to develop such solutions.


If you are interested in a technical discussion related to What It Really Takes to Build a Factory Overlander with Dave Harriton from AEV - here is a great podcast:

 

[ramblinChet]

This phase of the project focuses on removing the Four Wheel Camper from my truck bed and fabricating custom-length air lines for my Overland Air Device - 145 PSI (OAD-145P). To prepare for camper removal, I first detached two RotopaX 2-gallon water containers from the camper’s front and two 20L Wehrmacht-Einheitskanister (Armed Forces Standard Canisters) from the rear. Next, I installed four Rieco-Titan mechanical camper jacks at each corner of the camper. While some pop-up camper owners keep jacks permanently installed, I remove mine to avoid potential damage from obstacles on rugged trails, which could compromise the camper’s aluminum structure.


When pricing camper jacks, I was surprised to find that a set of four new Rieco-Titan jacks cost just over $1,000, with used units ranging from $700 to $900. I briefly considered designing and building my own jacks but ultimately decided against it. Upon inspecting the Rieco-Titan units, their quality was evident, reflecting decades of engineering refinement. Each jack weighs approximately 25–30 pounds, features smooth and robust internal gearing, and can support up to 2,000 pounds independently. The jacks include manual handles, but I also purchased a $29 drill adapter, which significantly improved efficiency.


Time constraints forced a change in my approach to removing the factory-installed turnbuckles. Initially, I planned to soak them with penetrating oil and use a wrench, but the threaded sections were too rusted. Instead, I used a 4.5-inch angle grinder with a cutting wheel, severing all mechanical connections between the camper and truck in under five minutes. I raised the camper by first elevating the front 2–3 inches, then the rear, using a small level to maintain pitch and roll within acceptable limits. Once the camper cleared the truck bed, I moved the truck forward a few feet, disconnected the electrical harness, and drove out from under the camper. Clearance was tight, with approximately 0.50–0.75 inches between the fender flares, wheels, and camper jacks.


For the Overland Air Device - 145 PSI (OAD-145P), my initial design incorporated DOT-approved push-to-connect fittings and SAE J844 tubing, commonly used in heavy-duty trucks. This choice was driven by the availability of replacement components at truck stops. However, after further research and discussions with full-time overlanders, I determined that while cost-effective and easy to assemble, this system lacked long-term durability. I shifted to custom-length air hoses using Continental 3/8-inch rubber air hose and Milton HIGHFLOWPRO brass fittings. Selecting compatible components was challenging, as the outer diameter (OD) of hoses with identical inner diameters (ID) varies significantly. The goal was to choose a brass ferrule that slides over the hose snugly enough to stay in place but loosely enough to allow full insertion of the brass end fitting. Research suggested using soapy water to ease assembly, noting that overly easy insertion could lead to leaks. Even with soapy water and significant force, I could only seat the brass end fitting halfway; a rawhide hammer and several firm strikes fully seated the fittings.


The final step involved selecting the appropriate hardened steel ribbed die for the Heavy-Duty Hose Crimper Tool to crimp the ferrule. This tool accommodates hoses from 1/4-inch single-braid to 3/8-inch two-braid, with die bore sizes of 0.484", 0.531", 0.578", 0.625", and 0.687". While not ideal for all builds, this solution met my need for durable, custom-length hoses capable of withstanding diverse conditions. It will be interesting to evaluate their longevity in real-world use.


The first hose I fabricated delivers air from the OAD-145P inside the camper, through a horizontal surface, to the exterior for distribution. I incorporated a loop in this line to prevent kinking, extend service life, and reduce stress on the fittings.


With the camper off the truck, accessing its exterior was straightforward, allowing me to preconfigure fittings and measure air lines accurately. Masking tape was invaluable for marking and noting measurements on the camper’s flat aluminum surface. For reference, a 1/4-inch NPT (National Pipe Taper) threaded fitting has 18 threads per inch (TPI), so each full turn shortens the assembly by 0.0556 inches along the axis. Initial hand-tightening requires approximately 3–4 turns, with final wrench-tightening adding 1.5–3 turns, resulting in a total axial shortening of 0.25–0.39 inches. This data informed precise hose length calculations before cutting.


The final assembly uses Continental hoses with Parker-Hannifin elbows and tees, Milton ferrules, and HIGHFLOWPRO couplings and end links. Each hose includes a calculated amount of slack to accommodate camper flex during off-road use. Designing and building the OAD-145P was rewarding, and I anticipate reliable performance on the trail. The air line transitioning from inside to outside the camper (visible in the inset image) may require sealant to ensure a weather-tight interface.


For this phase, I documented expenses carefully. I initially considered purchasing the hose crimper from Milton, priced at $276, but opted for a comparable unit that saved over $150. The Klein Tools cutter performed flawlessly, producing clean, perpendicular cuts on the double-braided hose.


Without the camper, my AEV Prospector feels significantly different in both appearance and handling. If I could, I'd trade it all for an automator...