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Okay, I'm thinking now that a full size axle would be perfect for this vehicle. The stock axle width is 63.5", to something in a 65" flavor would give me the track width, and the wheel spacing I need. I'll do some in-depth research in to it tomorrow, but does anyone know off the top of their...

Nope, but it was damn quick. I do know what the new rig will be though...something I would like to have more than the SMB!

Sold

Make sure you take out everything you have "stashed." Or not, make the first border crossing for the next owner interesting!

SPOBI stands for Stop Putting Out Bogus Information. It is from another Jeep site that I used to frequent...the exact origin is unclear. My information is far from erroneous. Cost savings has nothing to do with how the steering system, and suspension system works. The function of the SS is...

I'm calling SPOBI here. SS mask the issue...dual SS mask it twice as well. A suspension system will function the same, with or without the SS. It may feel different from all the feedback you'd be feeling, but the system and SS are independent of each other. Fix the balljoints, check your...

Check all your bushings and the sleeves in them. The DW can exacerbate already wallowed bushings/sleeves.

Well, just to make sure it is DW, we're talking the whole vehicle shakes(almost harmonically) until slow down, correct? The SS is neither the cause or fix...forget about it. Did your mechanic pull your control arms and check the bushings? Both axle and body side bushing, especially on the...

I swear it was the combination of those dark chocolate covered macaroons and that steak. The birds were a big fan of my chum though! Tell Mia "nice fleece."

Someone knocked your clothes drying rack over.

Have you actually used them?

This particular one has been for sale for almost a year now...I could be wrong though.

I'd say stock, or the M.O.R.E. rubber mounts...stay away from poly as the XJ unibody transmits A LOT of noise. Even with the M.O.R.E. rubber mounts, my old XJ buzzed a ton at idle, but the rotation of the engine was nil.

Started out with this: Got rid of the thing because it mounted to the flimsy factory cross rails and I didnt like how it mounted. Then I got this: Same flimsy mounting options, but I liked the quality better, and it opened on either side! I got rid of that one too, and bought this rack...

I'm guessing that in aircraft manufacturing, certain grades of material are required, with these grades being established by outside firms such as the ASTM. Without the buyer being able to run their own independent tests on the material of the spacers, they have to rely on the maker's honesty...

Lets not forget that it isnt a simple $200 for the wheels. Take in to account the cost of un-mounting your existing wheels, and mounting/balancing the new wheels; this could cost you an extra $100 or so, depending on where you have it done.

The users. There are numerous arguements for both sides; I'd hoped to keep that kind of diatribe out of the thread. It would be great if we could re-focus on the actual mechanics of the two methods, as well as the empirical data; that would suite us all better than arguing about age and...

Age and experience have nothing to do with the safety of spacers. It sounds as though this type of decision will be a tie ad nauseum. I'll be going with spacers for the time being.

http://www.steepandcheap.com/?cmp_id=ODAL_DSK5001&mv_pc=r208 Primus MultiFuel EX Stove w/ ErgoPump

Makes sense. Rotational torque, or the torque arm mentioned earlier? Rotational, no, you torque the nuts the same as the factory spec. Torque arm, the additional weight of the spacer is negligible compared to the extra weight of a larger tire. Same goes for the physical material strength of...