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180k isn't a lot on that truck. If a transmission is your only failure point, I don't see it being a huge issue. I don't think your first rebuild was quality which is why it failed, and it sucks you had to pay $3500 for a new trans the second time bc of a bad situation. I'm on almost 150k on my...

The funny thing about this thread is that it was cross posted in the domestic forum as well, it went a couple pages and ended days ago with "both trucks have plusses and minuses but you cant go wrong with either most of the time so buy which one you like best." Everyone here is still thinks the...

I daily a 1500 extended cab, I recently just ordered a set of brand new stock leafs off of a 14-18 1500 for cheap off of eBay and a pair of Deaver mini leafs to get the butt back up to stock and eliminate the factory block. Going to crank up the front a little to level it out, and add upper...

That price seems a bit high for a service truck, you can find privately owned trucks for a similar price that probably have been worked less. Anyway, 99-06 Chevys (1/2, 3/4, doesn't matter) are simple, reliable, and very few issues... all of which are extremely well documented. Very underrated...

This is the craziest thing I’ve ever seen in my life

Damn dude, that looks GREAT. Really tempting me to pull the trigger on new leafs, mine are sitting on the overloads and even with the same exact tires as you it looks like a lowrider. Hows the ride?

Thats the best scenario IMO. Get it and have it fluid flim'd or coated every couple years.

Living in it? Suburban. XJs are TINY. 99-06, crank the torsion bars and add 33s, call it a day. Spend all the leftover cash on beer.

I love the size of the windows on these things.

Given the choice between the two I'd go F150 with the 2.7.

Fox 2.0s are fine for 99% of people 99% of time. This crazy trend of putting 3.0 coil overs with remote resis on everything is a little ridiculous.

That thing looks like the bars are cranked to hell. Jack it up, how much more travel is there until the tires stop going down? Unbolt the shocks and do it again. You probably just need shock extenders, maybe upper control arms.

You need to check your front end if a 1.5" crank makes your truck float. Were you sitting on the jounce stops before? Are you running OEM or OEM replacement shocks? What tire pressure? Did you get an alignment? With the torsion bar crank I did, it STIFFENED up the front end a little, the truck...

When you modify anything, it becomes less reliable and breakage/wear is more common and faster. Torsion bar crank, diff drop kit, long travel, solid axle swap.... we all pay to play.

Direct replacement as an I can buy a 2007 lower control arm and bolt it into my 2005 with any modification? Because I feel like someone would have figured that out already if it were the case.

To do it "right" you should check out JD fab's stuff. You don't need new LCAs unless you want long travel. https://jdfabrication.com/collections/chevy/products/99-to-06-chevy-1500-4x4-mid-travel-coil-over-kit

The torsion bar setup is pretty damn simple. If you want 2-3" of lift, crank and put on aftermarket upper control arms and the correct length shock, get an alignment. You now have the lift and more travel than stock. You can fit 35s easily (or 37s, as one of our crazier contributors has shown...

The weight shift clunk I had went away when I did my torsion bar crossmember bushings. There is still a pop/clunk every now and then from the G80 though, but that’s normal.

If you plan on doing a lot of time with the FWC in the truck, get the 250. MPG loaded up won't be measurably different between the two. Oh, you want to do a flatbed one day? Don't even think about the 150. Only reason to get the 1/2 ton is if you daily drive it empty more often.

I saw that beach pass and had to re-read your intro. You are insane for building a local truck and moving out west with it when you will have so many rust-free options available in Arizona.