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There is a lot of of misinformation based on straight "air mattress" construction. Modern air sleeping pads have insulation to prevent loss of body heat. I'm a ground tent sleeper and the best comfort I have ever found are Exped mats. I've used a Synmat 9LW everywhere - from sub-zero snow...

I'll be following this with interest! I could use a rear swingaway and roof rack for my LWB...

Also consider the age of your D1, how long you have owned it, what maintenance you have done, and what is truly unknown. You're looking at driving 30-some hours one way, much of it at sustained highway speeds. I agree with bearings and seals when you do the brakes, also evaluate the...

Thanks for that info. I'm a paper maps guy, but my iPhone use has really set my interest in adding digital mapping. I'm at a decision point between the iPad Mini 4 and the Air 2. I like the portability of the mini, its beautiful screen, and the fact that it's "new". But I feel like I'm leaving...

I just use Fluid Film. No need to plug something in there until you need it.

Any chance you'll be driving it in/near Hunterdon County NJ this Fall?

Chazz - thanks for the reply, and the Motor Oil 101 link. Very interesting read!

Best 1-person tent = a 2-person tent! I only spend 35-40 nights a year in a tent. In foul weather a little extra room inside is really nice, as is a small vestibule for wet/dirty gear. Plus, you can fit two people if/when necessary...

Can you elaborate on this?

The lightweight race-oriented BMX'ers can be in the same price range as your 20" Cleary, or even more. But the real light ones have a 75-100lb rider weight limit, so if you have BMX tracks in your area you can find these 2nd-hand fairly regularly. Mine are in Central-Western-NJ and very cheap.

That is not light. And the likelihood of building an affordable 10# bike is slim as well. My solution was to buy a set of 20x1-3/8 BMX race bikes and re-gear them to suit my kids. These are real BMX bikes, intended for racing with real components. I picked-up an aluminum Schwinn that tipped the...

Excellent pics and a great trip!!! I never really thought about it, but that strut is actually the shock/air-spring/bump-stop and chassis connections all in one assembly?

this one will fit without any brackets or modification: HL18621 --- http://www.rallylights.com/hella-rallye-4000x-halogen-driving-lamps-and-kits-special-pricing.html Any idea how the two compare in output?

I have a horizontal surface, below a 5" opening - think: VW grill emblem!

Thanks Bill. I have a very confined location, so the 4" size was appealing. Could not find any data on the 4000X (4" halogen), but I suspect it will not have the output I'm after.

What about bumper-level, country road deer lights? I was thinking about the 4" optilux tied to high beams. Am I way off the mark here?

Yes, in my ~20 years experience with this style jerrycan, used for gasoline, diesel and waste oil transport, in horizontal and vertical orientation, I have never experienced leaks or vapors.

Details please - Spacers? Taller bump stops? I've got 225/75's on my EAS LWB now, and it only looks like a 215/85 may fit when lowered. I have not yet re-mapped the ride heights, but the clearance limitation, as I see it, is unintentional drop to the bump stops.

JAK, Thank you for the motivation! I installed an EAS manual back-up system on my 1995 RRC LWB: A "Y" fitting was installed at each air bag, with a separate line run to the engine bay. The "Y" has two feeds (EAS / Manual), and both are isolated with a built-in check valve. I can remove...

Several sources for that battery have dried-up. I found one with a 10pc minimum ($8.95/each), and have also been told you can bring it to a Batteries Plus store and they'll build you one for ~$10 (some stores do repair work and could likely do the desolder/solder work for you). I'm in a similar...