not something I've noticed. But then I haven't checked.
Probably not a good test on my system, I have a webasto diesel heater in the circuit with a reservoir (and pressure cap) higher than the engine radiator.
two related issues:-
1:- clean out the reservoir, if there's no evidence in the radiator its probably dried "stuff" from sitting idle. May need hot water.
2:- "burping" doesn't sound good. Look for telltale oil on surface of water in radiator. I would first try replacing the radiator cap -...
just a thought ..... the Redarc can supply 25A at 12v to van battery and fridge. Fridge takes 14A (I think from first post). Which leaves about 10A for battery charging.
What size battery, what is it used for, will there be enough driving time to recharge, any other source (like solar)?
haha. :) Just that it works. I recall when I first started messing with this stuff. Several years of arguments until someone added a second cable for the fridge with 12v to 12v. Still much discussion about the need for DC-DC conversion, usually relating to "smart alternators". I needed 12v-12v...
reasonably common setup among the caravaners,
6 B&S is about the norm. Some run a second cable for the fridge when 12v to 12v. Not feasible/necessary with 24v.
My maths is different to Owen's. 15A @27.5v for 10m (each way) leaves 27.1v to the Redarc.
24v is much better than 12v. Voltage drop...
someone may have put an extra positive wire in. The original may be a bit thin for continuous high current.
if + and - were connected together smoke would be produced. Best trace the wires for future reference.
I'm not familiar with your engine. On my little bit older FG649 there is a red emergency engine stop button low down on the dash next to steering column. I've never had to use it. Doesn't fix the problem, just avoids stalling approach.
I'm a bit confused about what is 12v and what is 24v.
Maybe work in watts = volts x amps
So 10 amps at 12 volts is same as 5 amps at 24 volts.
Are the Redarc amps at 24v or 12v (input or output)?
The diesel requires little to run. Lights take a bit. eg 2 x 60w headlights = 5 amps at 24v or...
thanks Owen,
which either means the vacuum light was on because the alternator wasn't providing enough volts or there's a second problem.
I'd go for the alternator. Loose belt / stuffed bearing / stuffed electronics / stuffed brushes. The belt squeals if loose and alternator trying to output...
the squealing may be as simple as loose belt tension,
but also may be alternator reluctant to turn,
I haven't looked but the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator is mechanical, its just a convenient place to have it,
there may be a problem with either alternator or pump,
I would look at...
finally got round to replacing bushes with polyurethane and pins with greasable. Had the parts for a couple of years. Rear hangers about 30 minutes each side. A bit of bother getting front pins aligned as I did one side at a time. But got there with two jacks. A couple of hours each side. I'd...
Hope this bit helps .... I've never noticed mine do anything else. Managed electronically I suspect. If battery has good volts it usually starts within a second or two and just runs. I've only seen glow plug light on once in 100,000 km, I think -10 centigrade.
neither can I. My vehicle is lighter than 12,000 lb (I think - its about 4500 kg). The basic cab chassis is way too heavy.
I guess its either gas guzzler with existing weight or battery with reduced weight, and any shade in between.
its not about the money.
just have to get head round how much it costs (in addition to monetary cost) to haul heavy vehicles around regardless of motive power, then make them light.
Batteries are lighter/smaller/longer lasting than a few years ago.
As a consumer, retired from paid work, my...
I sometimes ponder the potential for a lightweight solar/electric camper. The weight of the Canter cab/chassis is a bit embarrassing for our use. Every time I look at that very large rear diff housing I shake my head. And 400kg of wheels? - that's more than 8% of my total weight. Used to be more...
there may be a clue here ...
http://www.dieselnews.com.au/new-electrical-connectors/
I thought AMP but googling that is hopeless
delphi looks promising, but their website catalogue is a shocker if you don't know what you are looking for.
of course they may be a Japanese version of something...
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