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well that question made me think ...... :) I have the same 5 wire Denso sensor. Circuit diagram draws it with two internal variable resistors to separate signal inputs at the ECU labeled accelerator sensor 1 and 2. The +5v and Gnd are separate at the ECU but combined to the sensors. There's...

the accelerator has two sensors built in, if they read differently the ECU throws a wobbly. any colour smoke from exhaust?

silly question - did you have the bleed screw on the top of the fuel filter open?

I did plan trying to hack the data from ECU. Found other projects instead. The k-line from the ECU seems to be the useful bit.

some experience with 2005 FG649 manual. Above about 4,500m (14,750ft), dirt tracks, the turbo boost was low enough to turn engine warning light on. Lots of black smoke. Decided against retuning. Maintain revs, reduced power but always enough. Above 5,000m (16,400ft) on sealed highway, highway...

my very limited experience with blink codes on Canter (one episode) was that the old codes could have occurred at any time in the past and may not be relevant to current problem. In my case low boost pressure but past codes suggested engine was running backwards among others. When I cleared the...

well done Steve

well done, took me days to identify the thread, another version, just what was available, the hole in the banjo bolt was useful for a screwdriver, by the side of the road, no puller, a longer bolt with a slide wasn't needed fortunately.

mildly understated. Very resistive translates as "no way in the world are these nuts going to loosen this way". Would have been a bit stuck without Owen and multiplier! :)

I wonder what the "manipulation with punch and hammer" was doing. Most seem to be more radial than circumferential. I would expect circumferential if tightening or loosening.

thought I had some old photos, but not to be. I didn't have the other damage on the shaft shown in your photos. My recollection is of replacing ....657 and ....658 but it was a long time ago .... Mechanic did mention a large amount of force had been used to assemble the hub and it didn't come...

first time out with my truck (about 6 years ago so memory faint) one hub failed to engage when I really needed it (we got stuck). At dealer a couple of days later I was allowed into the workshop to watch. The centering plate was distorted and partly cracked (not fractured through like yours)...

Sorry, can't resist .... special for you .... I've invented the round steering wheel, with invisible floating spokes, rotating logo, static eccentric mag-lev ergonomic touch sensitive radio controls, fully adjustable self locking hydrostatic clutch drive, self adjusting in all directions with...

hard to describe the knack .... my apologies if this is teaching grandmother to suck eggs (apologies in advance) .... sometimes a lighter hammer can be moved faster and get the desired shock with better control. A bigger hammer needs a bigger swing and can move the work instead of doing its job...

mine came from ATW, good to know they may be more common.

yup. There's a knack to it. Its about 48 years ago, cold UK winter day, outside on road, several hours of failing to separate a rusted in ball joint on a mini, interspersed every 20 minutes to warm hands inside. Neighbour, who happened to be a forklift mechanic, passed by and pleasantly asked if...

one version ....

this thread may help http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/159737-HUB-NUT-SIZE

when I replaced springs I found it easier if both sides were jacked the same amount. I had tall axle stands. For bushes only I'd spread the side I wasn't working on even if I didn't remove pins. A bit of detergent helped with rubber bushes. I have some polyurethane ready to fit when required.

another trick for the front is to insert one half bush (right hand in foto) before relocating spring and second half can be inserted through the large hole in the mounting bracket after relocating. I had an off day and was a bit slow to realise it was easy. :(