Search results

This is the one thing that would push me toward a jeep or other "mainstream" 4x4. I had never considered the xterra as being off-road capable, but went on a trip with a guy a couple of years ago that had some nice suspension mods and was really impressed at the stance and capability. This same...

That's a good width... I'm 10.5 width, and I think it looks a little narrow.. 11.5 seems like a nice step up without going crazy

All the wiring is there for the locker, you just need the switches and pump. I highly recommend getting those gears in the 99, but I'm pretty sure that the non-locker rear axles in the 99 isn't the same length as the locker axle, so you can't just swap out the 3rd with out replacing rear axle...

I get the same flashing CDL light after a bit of driving in our '03 Limited.... haven't dug into it yet, but seems like it is one of the switches as common of an issue as it is..... pretty sure you have to drop the transmissions because all of the switches are on top.

you could use a shop vac over one of the radiator hoses to create a vacuum in the system... that will probably get a little more out

do a search on this forum for something like "gen 3 temp gauge".... there is a video on youtube, and several pictures.

this is EXACTLY the situation brings major puckering... especially when you're on the back 2 wheels (plus 1 front), and then you rock to the front 2 (plus 1 back). The tires look really good on there.... what width?

Several of the dummy lights illuminate when starting the vehicle. That way you know the light works, and just isn't burnt out (or removed). Last night on my way home, heading up hill the low fuel light came on (I was low), a little further up the next hill I noticed that the light wasn't...

do a little search, and you'll find that the fuel and temp gauges can read poorly due to a bad solder... it's and easy fix if you have a soldering iron handy. If you don't, find a friend that does. You need to add more than 6 gallons of fuel to make the center stack distance to empty reset...

you only need to replace if you have the old bolt (I think you want a new washer too, but don't quote me on that)... the old bolt looks kind of like a dumbell... the new one looks much more like a normal bolt... google, and you'll find pictures of both

get the FSM from http://www.mitsubishilinks.com/ it has a walk through

if the belt is slipping, you don't have enough tension on the belt.... also turn clockwise not counter. I've found that it's difficult to get the belt on with good tension on the right side if I put the crank at the timing mark. I usually back it off (counter clockwise) about a tooth, then put...

No intake removal necessary... Things might be a little tight around the top of the water pump though. That metal tool I posted I made for 10 bucks or less... Flat steel from home depot.... Cut off a section and drilled three holes... Slipped in soom 3/8th bolts and your done

those are the binder clips I've used... just make sure they are slightly larger and not tiny ones. They are a big help to keep the belt on the cam gears. Click the link to the picture, there is another one in my flickr album that shows the whole tool. On the face of the crank pulley, there...

there was an 03 on craiglist in the columbus/dayton ohio area posted in the last week or so... check the thread that has the montero's on craigslist

there is a crunch there for sure.... there should a large metal shield bolted in the front to protect that area, and prevent you from seeing it... whatever caused the damage to that area probably trashed the shield and possibly made it impossible to blot back in place. battery looks like it...

here is the tool I made.... I've used it several times

Yikes! I didn't see that picture before... I don't recall anyone talking about needing to replace the balancer. I actually think it's less of a balancer and more of a crank shaft pulley.... although it does have some weight, so is probably doing some balancing. You might have more problems...

Yes, I think it's the same

the switch itself isn't making voltage... volts are coming in, and then getting sent back out. Unless there is some computer chip in the switch, I would think that you should be able to probe all of the positions of the switch.