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While I was at it I noticed the dog house was loose, and it was louder when I fit it back on. A small bend with a wrench quite things down again.

This morning when I hopped in the ‘97 E350 there was the distinct smell of burning wire insulation. Best guess is from the vents. It got worse while driving. Ambo unit powered down. google points me towards the heater motor &/or resistor. I swapped in a lower mile ‘01 blower a couple years...

What does the hose connect to? A/C pump is on the other side. The condenser connections and air drier are on that side. I think the A/C lines are further left in the picture. A/C lines marked in yellow. I think the line you marked is likely water. Look twice, remove once.

Build it a friend to venture out further with ;)

What does the hose connect to? A/C pump is on the other side. The condenser connections and air drier are on that side. I think the A/C lines are further left in the pic

Short answer... it sucks trying to get it out. I later found the wiring and plumbing above the front edge can be moved. But it’s true the rear a/c lines are part of what’s in the way. I somehow managed to shoehorn it in and out without removing more than the air cleaner... but it wasn’t easy.

Not in Seatle. NAPA offered to rebuild mine for $450... but I'd lined up a new old stock OEM one for $300. The mount to the engine is somewhat different between the alternator you have and a stock van one. I've read the van one can be modified to fit the bigger alternator... not sure about the...

Mitsubishi 215 amp 32 lbs last time I checked $956 cdn from Ford. No stock available in North America. about $300 on eBay

I’m glad to hear the Duramax is working out for all of you. A good friend worked for a tow company... he told me the Duramax they had kept blowing head gaskets. He had a low opinion of the Duramax. 6.0 Fords were even worse.... in contrast the 7.3 truck’s hour meter had been pinned at 99,999...

Voltage seems high. Is that with an ambulance package gauge or a digital multimeter? My gauge reads about 1/2 a volt high. Voltage should be 15v max. Amperage should drop to about 50 amps in 5-10 minutes. many shops will test your alternator & batteries free of charge: also clean all contacts...

Come to think of it, that was the case for both my ‘97 front end & my ‘01 front end with OEM coils. I mixed and matched front end components and have never removed the bell retainer. The Moog coils were no different...in that regard.

Both my OEM coils and the 880s would lift off the retainer if tipped to the right angle... but otherwise they stay in place. The fit was the same as stock.

Keep us posted on how the batteries work out... G/C are working, but I may win the lottery if I’m given a ticket (or have saved enough not buying them). :D

@Weldtec Designs has done a lot with these vans... thoughts for a member in Germany? I’m not familiar with Chevy... Econoline would be a different story.

Saginaw pump pressure output on P/S conversions can be altered. Too much pressure and all road feel is lost vs too little and hard steering. There’s a spring and rod which control it... Likely similar for our steering. Too much pressure and steering boxes will eventually sufffer with big tires.

Any boat shop that repairs fibreglass boats would be able to repair the body. Fibreglass is easier to repair than steel.

They also like this... although the 40 will likely be going out today instead.

Crestlines don’t vary all that much. The JI unit is the long wheelbase variation,

I see the Justice Institute has sold one of their ambos.

I’m sure Dave will reply. From what I’ve read it’s very doable with a large cherry picker. It is a huge job as it requires stripping everything out of the front of the van that can be removed. I believe time is the most major factor. I’ve not pulled a 7.3, however, I’ve had all of the grill...