For me about 10 minutes with ambient temps around 70º. This usually gives me a little less than 1#. Any longer in the freezer and I get more than a pound.
I want less than a pound for safety so I weigh them after filling.
When I started backpacking I got tired of living out of stuff sacks quickly. I learned how to make duffle bags. It's not hard. Any size I want, any material I want, as rugged as I want, waterproof, dustproof, or breathable.
Anyone have recent experience with wireless backup cameras?
I am only concidering this because of the difficulty of getting the video cable through the firewall to the screen on the dash.
2012 Ram 2500.
You are asking on the wrong forum. I would venture that most respondents here bought their camper for its utility, to fit their style of camping and their bank account.
It's Heffalumps and Woozles for me. And camp lights attract them o_O
I camp to experience nature including dark. I can huddle in a little circle of light or around a campfire at home.
The energy to heat 1 liter of water from 20ºC to 100ºC = 330Kj = 91Wh at sea level.
That is approximately 150A to heat 1 liter in 3 minutes.
Or 36A to heat 1 cup of water from 20º to 100º in 3 minutes.
Grandby on 2012 Ram 2500, 9 years of gas milage data with camper on and off:
14 mpg with camper off.
11.9 mpg with camper on.
loose another 1.5 mpg with winter gas (November to April).
Truck with camper loaded weighs 7920 wet.
My 2¢: Grandby on 2012 Ram 2500 4X4, standard cab, 8 ft box.
Front and side area.
I have seen a number of full size campers on their side in strong side winds in prairie states.
Even more huddled under overpasses and behind wind blocking hills.
I sleep with top down in strong winds (less...
Thermal transfer and condensation has never been a problem down to about 20ºF. Can't compare for temps lower as I have never camped in a composite camper. But condensation is manageable in a FWC.
New or slightly used composite campers are way out of my price range and I don't know what...
IMO a big advantages of FWC/ATC is that their frame and exterior is bombproof and they offer a shell model.
I have a 46 y.o (1977) Grandby with original canvas that is still weather tight. I have seen other 70s - early 80s FWCampers for sale for under $2K. Rip out the interior and do your own.
I have an old 'Skyline' aluminum 3 qt. pressure cooker (made by Prestige?) bought from REI in the early 70's. Went on many high altitude mountaineering trips; worth its weight. Works on an MSR X-GK, Pocket Rocket w/ support legs. Can still find some on e-bay. Getting harder to find parts.
Is there any concern with pushing from a single point in the rear of the tow vehicle, especially in loose or slippery conditions?
Standard ball hitch? Load leveling hitch?
These kind of failures usually happen over time: stress fractures start and propagate over time until the frame is too weak for a shock load. Don't know the history of other vehicles that failed. OP had ~25,000 miles carrying that load.
Where are these numbers from?
Wreckers are a different animal. The Class B I drove (Ford 650) had:
- a straight boxed frame from behind the engine.
- frame reinforced with L channel from under cab to tail.
- wrecker box is heavily reinforced.
- boom/sling superstructure is engineered for...
I tend towards libertarian, but . . .
There needs to be some common sense regulating of the RV industry. In the case of slide in camper manufacturer:
the actual weight of camper as built is clearly displayed
and an estimated wet weight at max capacity
and a minimum truck needed to safely haul...
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