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Pretty close. So, I am going to use a small chain block and tackle which lives in storage when not in use. There'll be two eyes. One on the body and one on the bumper. When needed I put the pulley block in place, take the weight, pull two pins, and lower the bumper to the ground. The pulley...

The hole goes right through Madoxen. Close Euro6... It is to do with lifting the spare wheels... Here's a hint... I'm using a block and tackle. :)

This morning was spent finishing the right hand hidden door frame, and then welding the bumper up. As there are so many corner welds, I was conscious it might warp. Most of it is 2mm as it needs to have some rigidity about it. The wheel wells are 3mm, as they have to support the weight of the...

Not wanting to waste any space, the rear bumper will double as a hidden locker, with the access doors only visible when the bumper is lowered to access spare wheels etc. Here's the left hand hidden door frame. Tomorrow I'll tack the right hand framework in and then have a crack at welding the...

Another Saturday and more achieved. The bottom of the rear bumper is all cut, folded and tacked up. Hope I have got it right, as it's a lot of work I don't fancy doing again!

That is very neat! I can see a lot of time went into it too! Well done!!

I had a bout of energy this morning, so went into work early and managed to cut and fold up some top plates and door plates for the hidden front face. This evening was spent putting the lifting eye cross member in, and then the center plate with the hole in it (10 points for the first person to...

Hello. Assuming you are in America, have you seen the post 'Portland 1222AF Adventures'? He's just imported two, and he plans to sell one.... If the truck he has for sale is not of interest, then he might have the info you are after... :)

You do! It's the wife's project! There's the chassis just to the left of the bulkhead too... It's an ex Australian Army SWB, that was a little hacked about when we got it. It now has a Stage 1 V8 front axle, and a disk brake conversion I'm working on, along with a 200 Tdi, LT77 gearbox and LT230...

Once the backplate was done, I spent a good hour scratching my head as to how I was going to fabricate the rest. I had decided a few weeks ago that there would be some usable space in this rear bumper, and wanting to utilize all the available space outside the habitat I will be building in some...

Being a long weekend where we are stuck at home (not that I'm worried), I've been able to get my head around the rear bumper and it's detail. Having cut the basic rear shape out yesterday, I was able to make the light and rego recess plates/holes today.

Hi Ian. Yeah, I've thought about buying a Plasma Cutter.. along with a folder, cropper, oxy etc, but for the little amount I'd use them I have always found another way, or borrowed the kit at work. Re the shed, it was built to suit the truck. There's about 500mm spare! :)

Not too many. I use the Pferd 1mm thin cutting disks, so only about 4 in total. I used a thicker standard 5" disk for cleaning out the corners. Time consuming but rewarding when done.

Hello! No cutting machine... just the 5" grinder! :)

And the result a few hours later! Nothing like shattering the peace on Easter Sunday! Spare wheel wells rolled and rear bumper face cut. Next is the lights and rego plate recesses. The two smaller squares are for of a proposed bike rack later.

The joys of not having a plasma cutter!!!!!

Now I have a rear Mast, and a pair of locking pins in place, it's time to start the rear bumper manufacture. It needs to look like its suppose to be there, serve a purpose yet manage to finish the rear end off, without looking like the back of a Caravan... I want more than just a pair of tail...

Brilliant job! Those rads with plastic headers are a pain in the ********! We have managed to get a few to reseal by tightening each clip slightly, but a new one is prob best!

Having re read this and studied the pictures, if that silver pipe is indeed going back to the radiator, then the cap (with the chain on it) should I think just be a flat cap with seal, and not a relief cap, as the silver pipe is the bleed return pipe (which has to return to just above the water...

Start from scratch.... You say you can occasionally smell coolant from the internal heater... That's the first port of call in my view. Firstly disconnect that and get the cooling system back to as near as standard as possible... If after this you still have coolant loss, you have eliminated any...