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It seems nice. A diesel or gasoline option would be cool though

Definitely stay with stock parts unless an upgrade is needed.

Start with the most budget minded approach. Most people don't need super thick walls so do 1" plus whatever thickness FRP is cheapest and most common. If I ever build another box, I want to take this approach.

Self tapping screws are banned from use on vehicles in my shop. I hate them. If they're sticking out under the cab, it's inevitable that someone will rip themselves open on one. I'd replace them with rivets or just glue the mats down.

I have my cab mostly stripped out except the dash frame and wiring. I’m going to completely strip it soon and spray it all with homemade lizard skin. Actual lizard skin works wonders so I’m hoping it will go well. I might spray the underside too.

Similar to mine then. A 1410 joint has an operating angle of up to 37*. Mine is around 30* with no load on the rear yet and it does fine as is. Once the camper box is on it, it will sit lower and have a better angle. Currently my driveline is down 5* and the pinion is up 5. Once the truck is...

Definitely get rid of the separate VR setup and use a modern 1 wire alternator.

Well yeah.....

That’s the thing. I haven’t really found a source but I’ve seen several companies that sell it through distributors.

Personally I would size the wire and fuse to match the total rated output of your fuse block. That way any future upgrades or added circuits can just be added to the blue sea fuse block.

If they are 1/8 bspt I would be inclined to replace them with a 1/8bspt to AN3 fitting and use AN lines to connect them. You’ll probably never have to deal with it again.

I remember it well. My father worked for Bridgestone/Firestone since the early 80s. If the tires had been inflated properly, they wouldn't have failed. It was the OEM tire for that truck and because of how the system works, was as cheap of a tire as they could make to satisfy Ford's...

Well it was Ford's fault

It looks to me like the weld wasn't too good in the first place. Just having it fully welded by a good welder is all that is needed imo.

In his case the stock trans cooler is a heat exchanger within the radiator. Once you're making more transmission heat than it is designed to dissipate, it can slowly get hotter and hotter. That is what is happening here. Mechanical fans don't always run full blast, some are thermo clutch fans...

Just adding an additional cooler might be enough. If not, add a fan

Anything is possible. There are a number of transverse transaxles that have a rear driveshaft and transfer case. Fitting one of those might work or just fitting a standard longitudinal drivetrain with a front and rear axle and transfer case.

My NPR currently just has a stock filter/separator from a HINO truck. I have yet to wire it in but it has a heater and water sensor built in to it. If I end up going anywhere that might have iffy fuel, I'll upgrade my system. A more robust separator and more filtration probably. In motorsports...

Very nice work he does there!

It doesn’t sound like your muffler is close enough to cause any problems. I see no way how your water tank and lines could somehow absorb this spray you’re talking about.