1987 4Runner- Expedition Build Up.

[Box Rocket]

Well, i'm sort of pissed... now that I've got the exhaust leaks fixed, I can here a bit of knocking/tapping from the motor.

Also, while working on the cat flange, I noticed that one of the lift blocks under the springs is crunched up. Which is a relief because whenever I've gone from forward to reverse and vice-versa I feel a shift and clunk, which I thought and was worried might be an issue with the rear axle/diffs.... Thankfully its only the block....

This could just be valve noise. The 22R-RE motors commonly have a ticking noise from the valves. They could be a bit on the loose side which is better than them being too tight.


Also, back to your roofrack idea. I have a suggestion for you. I like where you're headed with the sectioned rack so you can take the top off in warm months. The problem I see is that those are also the months where you'll do most of your overland travel and when the rack will be most necessary. So how bout this?........instead of hard mounting the rack to hard top in a permanent fashion, why not hard mount some brackets to the hardtop and have some tabs on the bottom of the rack that bolt to those brackets. Then, you could also fab another set of brackets to attach to the factory rollbar inside the truck. So when summer comes, unbolt the rack from the hardtop brackets and bolt it back up to the rollbar brackets. Then you get to keep your full rack during those months when you want the rack most, but want to have the top off.

Just a thought....

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Yeh we determined it is a valve noise. I rented a compression gauge from Autozone to check the compression.

I'm simple minded and without looking at the book to know the actual firing sequence to the cylinders, I mentally numbered them 1-4. 1 being the first cylinder closest to the front and 4 being nearest the firewall.

So, the pressures were 160, 155, 150, 150. Recommended pressure is 171, so these measurements are 6%, 10%, 12%, 12% out of spec, but only 4% and 6% difference between cylinders...

I am going to try to adjust the valves next week, hopefully my father in law can show me.........

We're about to take the truck on our first road trip... sort of.... going home for the holidays to Louisiana, a 350 mile one way trip. Thankfully, I've got friends in Dallas, Tyler, Shreveport, Natchitoches, and all of our family in Alexandria. I may take some of the back roads, just to be a bit slower, and avoid the interstate. Wish us luck on that account.

Roof rack? Yeah after having two brains pondering the situation, I'm going to build a roof rack very similar to this one. I think this is the best set up for eventually a roof top tent.

Allows me to remove the top, still have a fully functional rack, and maybe as an added bonus be a bit of a roll cage. I wont expect it to actually function as a roll cage, of course. Anyone care to guess what size material I should use?

 

[ntsqd]

How many miles on the clock and when was the cam drive stuff last replaced?

If over 125k and no idea, then I'd strongly suggest that you replace the cam drive assembly. 100-125k is about all that they're good for. You'll want a kit with the metal backed chain guides. It is very possible that the ticking that you're hearing is a plastic chain guide gone bad. When the cam chain stretches enough it eats into a coolant passage. Things go bad in hurry once that happens.
http://www.engnbldr.com/

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

New PCV valve, O2 sensor, fresh oil and filter this morning. Mr. Leary let me borrow some dielectric grease, so i went to every connector i could see and greased em. I'll be bored for a couple days next week, so im going to use my father-in-laws shop to adjust the valves and relocate the ECU computer to the glove box.

 

[Grim Reaper]

22R is known for noisy valves. No worry. Run the rockers about .001 tighter then spec to quiet them down a little.


second on what ntsqd said about the timing chain.

The big issue with the chain is not so much the chain its the guides breaking. The one side lets go it lets the chain get into the cover right behind the water pump and grind a hole into a water passage. Then the broken guide makes it down to the pan and gets stuck to the oil pick up.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Yeh we determined it is a valve noise. I rented a compression gauge from Autozone to check the compression.

I'm simple minded and without looking at the book to know the actual firing sequence to the cylinders, I mentally numbered them 1-4. 1 being the first cylinder closest to the front and 4 being nearest the firewall.

So, the pressures were 160, 155, 150, 150. Recommended pressure is 171, so these measurements are 6%, 10%, 12%, 12% out of spec, but only 4% and 6% difference between cylinders...

I am going to try to adjust the valves next week, hopefully my father in law can show me.........

We're about to take the truck on our first road trip... sort of.... going home for the holidays to Louisiana, a 350 mile one way trip. Thankfully, I've got friends in Dallas, Tyler, Shreveport, Natchitoches, and all of our family in Alexandria. I may take some of the back roads, just to be a bit slower, and avoid the interstate. Wish us luck on that account.

Roof rack? Yeah after having two brains pondering the situation, I'm going to build a roof rack very similar to this one. I think this is the best set up for eventually a roof top tent.

Allows me to remove the top, still have a fully functional rack, and maybe as an added bonus be a bit of a roll cage. I wont expect it to actually function as a roll cage, of course. Anyone care to guess what size material I should use?

I have seen some write ups over at pirate and ih8mud about rub rails as well as racks mounted that way. I know the guy that owns power tank owns one of the red runners with the rail and that rail is mounted to the inside roll cage. I think I read that white truck you have pictured has braces in the fender tied into the floor somehow too carry the weight.

Click the vid in the middle. You can get a glimpse of his 1st gen. One of the mags had a write up on it. really sweet 1s gen. I think Pirate had it posted there as well.
http://www.powertank.com/

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

How many miles on the clock and when was the cam drive stuff last replaced?

If over 125k and no idea, then I'd strongly suggest that you replace the cam drive assembly. 100-125k is about all that they're good for. You'll want a kit with the metal backed chain guides. It is very possible that the ticking that you're hearing is a plastic chain guide gone bad. When the cam chain stretches enough it eats into a coolant passage. Things go bad in hurry once that happens.
http://www.engnbldr.com/

It sounds like the ticking is coming from one of the valves at the back of the motor.

Of course I didnt see any receipts but, the motor was said to be rebuilt 50,000 ago. I can see some fresh-ish gasket maker on the oil pan and the head gasket was supposedly replaced in July, as well. But, it is leaking a bit around the crank seal... That may be another thing I tackle in the next few days.... but thats an all day job for me...

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Speaking of power tank... I've got a friend who owns a fire extinguisher shop that I'm going to talk to on Monday about getting an old fire extinguisher tank, regulator and hose to use for such a reason.

The power tank 4Runner looks good awesome.

 

[Grim Reaper]

It sounds like the ticking is coming from one of the valves at the back of the motor.

Of course I didnt see any receipts but, the motor was said to be rebuilt 50,000 ago. I can see some fresh-ish gasket maker on the oil pan and the head gasket was supposedly replaced in July, as well. But, it is leaking a bit around the crank seal... That may be another thing I tackle in the next few days.... but thats an all day job for me...

Hopefully it is just a loose valve. The EGR pulls from cylinder#4. There is a routing plate on the back of the head to get it over the the passengerside where the actual valve is. Its possible to have a exhaust leak back there as well. Could also be a manifold gasket leak.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

I've replaced all the exhaust gaskets, which is why I can now hear the ticking.

We used a mechanic's stethoscope to listen to the motor, which is how we located the noise coming from the back of the head, and we did check a bunch of spots.

 

[RU55ELL]

That is something that is taking me a while to get used to, is the ticking. It's really just a fact of life with these motors.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Well guys, the truck made the 350 mile jaunt to Louisiana. My father in law is going to show me how to adjust the valves on saturday, and we may try to attack the leaking front main... not sure though.

I definitely need to address the noise in the truck. Next big project is to get some of that sound dampening material to line the inside of the truck. Anyone have any recommendations for the best bang for the buck material to use?

 

[RU55ELL]

Do you have an FSM for the truck? It tells you how to adjust them.

I put Dynamat with a sticky backing in a buddy's Altima, that stuff is super dense and kills a lot of noise.

 

[corax]

Search around a bit - I seem to remember people using some kind of roofing material as a cheap alternative to Dynamat

quick google search for "dynamat alternative" found this here

Peel & Seal is the cheap alternative to Dynamat. This is the stuff you get from Lowes Hardware. It is the same as the original Dynamat but a lot cheaper.
I started putting my fake Dynamat down. This is the stuff that they have been talking about on HAMB and a few other forums. I paid less than $15.00 for a 6in. X 24ft. roll. It's very, very close to Dynamat other than the price. It has a 40 mil rubberized aspalt sticky back, two layers of high stregth polymer film over a reflective aluminum surface.

I was worried a little about how good it would stick. I pre cut what I needed then I used a heat gun on the backing. Let me tell you!! When you stick it on you can't get it off. Even if it just bearley touches it. Make sure you have it all lined up before you touch anything with the backing.You can use a wall paper wheel to smooth it out. I didn't have one so I used an unopen pop can. As you can see from the bead rolls in the floor it takes the shape of where up put it. Cool thing is this stuff is used for flashing and as a roof patch. Any small holes you may have this will seal them and not let the water in. They do sell a better version of the Dynamat. It is the sound and heat Dynamat. It is almost twice as thick as the original. No problem. For the price difference put a second layer over this one. Even with the floor half done I can tell a difference in how it sounded when I close the truck door.
this may help you if you go looking for it..

 

[corax]

Here's a 16 page thread on sound deadening