Locks only keep honest people honest . . . what are you gonna do about the windows? Doesn't take much to break one . . .
Well, if you look in that picture, on the tailgate, there is a lock there. I'm thinking of putting anything valuable in the drawer system, if the tailgate is locked, you wont be able to open the drawers. Thats what I'm thinking, doing the front doors would just be silly!:sombrero:
Use the "built in lock" on your 4Runner... If the top is off, put the window up like a 1/2 inch(or less, just enought to trigger the 'lock mechanisim' in the tail gate.). Now you can't open the rear gate. I'm planning on a drawer system so that if the top is off the you can roll up the window and pull the top bolt that complete's the circuit (I belive one of the ones on the rail behind the Driver's seat. Also I have jumped my window terminals so you can use the window switch w/o the leys in the ingn. so you could jump in and lower the window and get in the gate), put your stuff in the drawers (that can't open because of the tailgate not workingWell, if you look in that picture, on the tailgate, there is a lock there. I'm thinking of putting anything valuable in the drawer system, if the tailgate is locked, you wont be able to open the drawers. Thats what I'm thinking, doing the front doors would just be silly!:sombrero:
OK, I get it now. If it helps to put your mind at ease in the mean time, remember the tailgate can only be unlocked by rolling the window down all the way which would require the key in the ignition or tailgate (unless you put a window switch in the rear of the truck that works without the key being on like I did)
FWIW, might be easier and cheaper to buy the Master Lock hasp and trim off the ears on either side - just drill a hole and use a bolt that'll be covered by the lock like in the pics you posted (also, put some reinforcing sheet metal or a large fender washer on the inside to prevent the hasp bolts just being pulled through the factory sheet metal by a prybar)
I really love their truck.... so much so that its got me thinking about doing the 4" lift. They have 4" suspension and 2" body running 35s
For the minds that know......... I have a few questions..........
My power steering gear box is leaking pretty bad..... I went to a u-pull it junk yard today and found one 93 4runner and a couple 2wd 80s pickups (88-89 IIRC) I'm wondering if the power steering gear boxes from any of these will work??? Ifens I beeze readsin this rait, theyens shuwd werk, doncha reckin? http://web.archive.org/web/20050322011020/http://128.83.80.200/taco/box.html
I'm also wondering if the 93's calipers are bigger, better, and use able?
I'm also wondering if the 93's (or the PUs) 3rd member will work and hopefully have the right gear ratio. Its V-6 2wd, but if its got the right axle/gearing i'll have half the swap there. I'm printing this list off and going back on Saturday. http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html
Actually, the factory switches on the truck do not work...... only from a home grown switch at the front.... Kind of annoying I dont like only being able to roll the window down from the front. I'd like to roll it down from the key switch in the back.
All Toyota 4wd IFS from '86 - '95 is the same, so the power steering box should work. I have heard, but haven't confirmed, that a V6 PS box is somehow stronger
they will physically fit - to see if it's an upgrade, look at the casting marks. Everything you need to know is here
3rd member will work - just check the VIN plate on the firewall for the axle diff code, any axle code that starts with "G" will work in the rear / "F" for the front (but the "F" axle code won't be on the VIN plate, all IFS with a "G" rear has a "F" front)
The '88 and newer boxes are bigger. They still bolt up to your frame exactly the same but are longer along the steering shaft portion. You will need to shorten your steering shaft. The '93 should be fine but it would be nice to see if you could determine the mileage on it. One out of a '93-'95 would be the most likely candidate for low miles and the most likely to have led a cush life of grocery getting and soccer duty.
A couple links they may be of interest
http://128.83.80.200/TACO/box.html
http://www.yotatech.com/f116/88-up-ifs-steering-box-seal-replacement-194025/
Is it possible to secure the tailgate at the top - inside of the tailgate? I don't know if you have metal available there but this is what I did with my tailgate. It would draw less attention to your truck. Seems to me in the mind of a thief the size of the lock would be directly proportional to the value of the items inside.
This may not be secure enough for your needs, I just wanted to point out an alternate location.
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